Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Repeated Crank Position Sensor Failure
Jan 29, 2015
I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
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I'm working on a family members car. We pulled out the old motor and put in a new one because the old one has rod knock. We're not getting ANY spark. Crank position sensor shows no resistance when cranking. The harness at the crank position sensor shows no voltage. The both coils measure 1.5ohms.
The only two bits of the harness that are in questionable locations are the grounds next to the ignition coil and the passenger side strut tower ground. I have the strut tower one to the closest bolt on the intake manifold and the coil pack grounds to the coil pack bracket.
The car has plenty of fuel and good cranking speed, just no spark. I verified using a timing light (no flash) and spark-plug short-to-ground. The old engine WAS running and all of the sensors on this one were swapped over from the running one. Also, the tach doesn't move when cranking.
Is there something that's commonly overlooked, or something that could be causing the issue searching showed it could be the crank position sensor, but like I said, I pulled the working one off the running engine.
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
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So my little car.....driving home from jersey (about an hour and a half) and within the last 2 miles I notice the car just shut off. Not any electronics just the motor. Pulled over and tried to start it an it just cranks prolly no fuel or spark. happened to have my obdII scanner with me. It says camshaft position sensor(po342). Only code in there. Sounds simple enough. Got a new one and put it in. Just cranks. Plugs and wires were done about 3 months ago and I drive about 40 miles a day 5 days a week. I did the timing belt last spring so I opened that back up to make sure the timing hadn't jumped for some stupid reason. It's perfect. Noticed now after doing all of that there is some (a little) oil in the throttle body. I know about blow by and don't think I should have that much at 113k but who knows.
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My 1.5L 2000 Hyundai accent is reading p0342 code.(cmp sensor circuit low Input). I have changed out the sensor from a parts car and it's still reading this code. I've read it could be timing or an issue with the starter wiring.
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My daughter spun her timing belt on her 1.5L accent. when she did, she bent the valve rods and all were replaced. The original code that was thrown was the one in the title. Ordered a new camshaft positioning sensor for the car. Looks a little different than factory. He installed it, and car is still pulling code. He accidentally threw away the original before confirmed that the problem was solved. Why the code is still pulling?? I can tell you this, I can clear the code, start the car and drive without code coming back on. As soon as I shut the vehicle off and restart, engine light comes on. Car runs fine. Had a complete valve job, new timing belt and water pump installed.
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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How difficult is it to replace the crank position sensor? It looks pretty tucked away at the front of the engine. Just wondering how much time I should put aside for this job.
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Where the Crank Shaft Position sensor is located on a 2004 4.2 phaeton... Dealership want 360 to install it ...
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Everything I've found on replacing the crank position sensor on my 2002 5.8l Chrysler town & country says its on the bellhousing but its not there!
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Where does the CPS located on my truck? Knowing mine is 5.4 L 2000 model. 121,000 miles on clock.
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I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 2 wheel drive I don't know where the crank shift position sensor is located. I don't have 310.00 to pay someone to replace this.
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
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99 2.0 jetta. Getting oil on crank position sensor making it miss. Is it the rear main seal? Only reason I can think to have oil around the flywheel... How hard is a rear main seal to change out....
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It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
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I have an 05 f350 6.0 that I recently bought. It was fine until a few weeks ago when it died while I was driving down the road. I pulled to the side and it started right back up like nothing happened and kept driving like normal. Skip to last weekend it did it to me twice but the second time it would not start so I plugged my programmer in and it showed p0336 crank position sensor and cam portion sensor codes (I can't remember the number of the second code) I have read a few posts that said maybe it's the icp sensor so I went ahead and replaced that with no luck. The batteries went dead from excessive cranking which I know isn't very good for my starter but I was getting a little upset.
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