I have hundai Accent 2003. It was working fine I parked it in the night came back in morning and it wont start and showing low oil pressure light. The ignition is not working.
View 1 RepliesI picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
I have an 03 Accent. The all metal high pressure power steering line had a leak. So I bought a new one for around 70 dollars from Hyundai. This part has a curved shape and fits around the radiator. The old one was difficult to get off, but the new one is proving impossible to get on. I cant get it into place.
View 2 RepliesThe lights that light up the A/C controls in my '03 Accent went out. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay and inside the car and they were all fine. Since only the lights relating to the A/C controls are out, is it just a bulb? if so, how do I change the bulb? I began to take off the dashboard cover, but I didn't see any bulbs.
View 14 RepliesI have an Accent 2003 - 2 door hatchback and for a while the light stays on, on my dash that the trunk is open.. I checked the lock, and the switch, and they are all ok.
Funny thing is, when I press the brake pedal, then the light turns of. Thought I would just deal with it, but it's driving me insane, looking at that light. I had to remove the light bulb from my trunk, since it is staying on all the time, and it had drained the battery.
I found through google some wiring schematics, but doesn't look like it's 100% correct.. Are there any available for my car, or even better, what it could be? (Faulty wire?)
I have an accent 2003 1.6 dohc crank but not start !!! Who do not fire and no gas ... and the check engine light is off when I turn the key on... (I test the check engine light and it is not burn).
I change the engine control relay and this is not work... I have all the wiring diagram and I check wire by wire and I don't find anything...
On my way home the speedometer stopped working and the air bag light came on. The odometer is still tracking distance and one other odd thing, the radio volume goes out as soon as the clutch is released. Tried a scanner and there are no codes.
View 5 RepliesToday I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
View 14 RepliesLately when I drive my car, I hear like a steam pressure release noise.. And happening ONLY when I have my Fan on in the car.
Sometimes it's soft and sometimes is a long loud one, and then you can feel the car holding in. (like quickly hitting the brakes a little bit)
How to explain it. I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 2 doors.
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
Shortly after leaving the lot, the low air pressure light came on, and the check engine light.
The tires themselves state Max Pressure 44lbs. I checked, and each had around 28 lbs. So I inflated up to 44 lbs (all tires). The light is still on.
Do I likely have a bad sensor? Can a tire sales place check that for me or do I need to take it to Hyundai?
It was cold this morning, about 34 degrees F. I get in my car and notice that TPMS light. Its still dark, and I'm running late to work, so I just walk around and do a cursory glance at all my tires with my lighter, they don't seem to be low. So I think maybe its because of the cold, but the light never came off after my 25 minute commute to work. I get out of my car, look around the tires, they look okay. I'll check the pressure after I get out of work.
View 15 RepliesI am having an oil pressure issue on a 2000 F-150, 4.6L.
I recently put a new set of heads on the motor because of some valve damage. Anyways. The oil pressure gauge in dash would sit at around 3/4.. Drive it a couple miles and every time you would get back to idle (stop sign) it would drop to zero and the light would come on.
You could also hear it make a little noise like the top end wasn't getting oil. (Didn't run at idle long..) I figured it was obviously starved of oil so I put a new oil pump, timing chains/guides/tensioners on. (Which I probably should have done with the heads.) Same issue resulted, but no funny noises when the gauge drops off.
Suspecting that the sensor may be faulty and the dash gauge being useless anyways, I dug an old mechanical gauge out of a box and installed it. I'm getting similar oil results. (Under 25psi it seems.) I'm not sure if the gauge has just gone to crap over the years of being in a box. However, the previous low-oil pressure issue seems to confirm it's not the gauge.
I cleaned the oil pickup when I had the motor apart. It didn't seem dirty, but I sprayed it out regardless. The motor looked fairly fresh when I had it apart. Bearings looked solid, cylinder walls even looked freshly honed. From what I hear, the motor was a low-mileage replacement.
So what could cause a low-oil pressure issue? Bearings seem fine, oil pump is brand new.
Some months ago airbag light went on. I carried my car to Hyundai and they reset the light and told me that the problem was probably the clock spring. But I tested the clock spring and it was ok and I tested the airbag device and was ok too. Now light is on again. I have tied a 2 ohm resistor between wires before the clock spring but light remains on.
Question: I have a cheap Chinese ELM327 OBD2 reader. Any software valid for this reader and able for reseting airbag light?
Have a 2000 accent with 155k on it. The other day noticed the oil light flickered on and off... hasn't come back on since... so I did some google research and saw some postings on possible oil pump issues. Another thing this morning went to go get the oil changed and they said they wouldnt change it cause iut was knocking a little.... so I have a feeling both these issues are related somehow... Last thing when I check the oil with the car cold.. I pull the dipstick and dont see any oil on it.... but when its running you pull the dipstick and it shows the oil.....
View 6 RepliesMy check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
So I bought a 2005 accent a while back, and one thing that's been bothering me is the hatch light won't turn on. It's not an issue with the bulb, and I'm not sure how to fix this.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2001 Hyundai Accent. About a month a go the CE light came on. at first, the car was driving fine so I thought nothing of it. Then I started noticing that the acceleration was sluggish and when it finally accelerated, it basically slingshot forward. What could be wrong. There's no smell, rattling or anything else. The only thing I noticed was the engine was a bit louder.
View 1 RepliesMy wife drives an 04 Accent and we seem to have a major issue. Here goes...if you turn the headlight switch to the first spot(parking lights etc.) the digital display disappears and the cluster gauges freakout and all the warning light flicker. When you proceed to the second spot(headlight on) no headlights, high or low, but when you pull and hold flash to pass the high beams work as does the instrument panel.
when you turn the switch back to the off position the trip meter resets back to 0.0. I've replaced the multi-function switch and no change. Here's the kicker, if you turn the blower motor on, the instrument panel acts up the same way and the blower motor, a/c, defrost don't work, but if you pull and hold flash to pass the blower motor, a/c all that works great. This is my wife's car and since it is in this state she really shouldn't be out in it.
2000 Ex 5.4 v8
Had 2 coils go bad last week. Got them replaced. Today I am on the turnpike doing 70 and my oil light comes on and oil pressure drops all the way. No engine noises and temp is OK so I coast to the next exit. Get off and go to the gas station in the corner. Turn the truck off...
Wait a few minutes, when I go turn it back on it wont start. The motor wont even turn. It just clicks.
I notice smoke coming from the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter so my brother comes and gets me and we go to the nearest auto part store and buy a new relay.
Replace it and try to start it, same thing. Just clicks and smoke. My brother gets under the truck and taps the starter as I try to start it, no go. I am fearing the engine locked up. But no engine noises, clicks or clacks or anything. Battery is fine as well. Any thoughts on what else I can try?
My accent is misfiring at startup, and randomly at stoplights. Pulling the code tells me it's the #2 cylinder. I have no trouble at highway speeds, the car really drives fine outside of stoplights and startups. The idle hovers around 900 rpm. Sometimes, once I'm on the road and driving, the CEL will go away altogether.
My main question is, is there any way to be certain that it's the 2/3 coil pack? I don't want to spend on parts that won't fix anything.