Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Idle Varies Between 800 To 1500 Intermittently Within Seconds
Sep 16, 2015
My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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My son owns a 2000 BMW 328i... sporadically, and without warning, the motor will speed up at idle, going from 600 rpm to 1200 rpm, then down to 700 rpm, then back to 600 rpm. This happens intermittently, when the motor is warmed up...
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I have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I am posting about a cam sensor code and alternator belt squeal.
Yesterday after getting in from a 600 mile drive from salt lake to eastern Oregon i took a look at the car to put some fogs in and clean it up a bit. It had always had some odd vibration at idle and belt squeal intermittently at idle. I pressed down on the alternator at idle and the vibration noise went away. So bam. Found that.
The nut on the square head mounting bolt holding the alternator was missing. So it was kind of just flapping around. Replaced the bolt and put a lock nut on. Problem solved so I thought.
I'm still getting belt squeal. And i think that its out of alignment. It looks like the pulley side of the alternator is closer to the engine block than the other side. Is this adjustable? Is the bushing on the mounting side worn out to the point of movement? Is this fixable?
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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Just had the timing belt done and water pump installed last week and just now noticed this oil leak. I can't figure out where it would be coming from . 10 seconds after I fired up the car it starts coming out.
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After my truck sits overnight it starts immediately and goes to fast idle for a few seconds, then ithe idle starts dropping until it gets to approx. 400 RPM.If I drive off immediately it will correct itself in a short while, otherwise I need to baby the engine speed until it runs on its own - usually five minutes.I cleaned the MAF and performed a MAF tap test with no success.
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I have a 2001 Suburban, 5.3 liter, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. I often take 250 to 600 mile trips and track my MPG between gas fill ups/rest stops about every 2-3 hours. I use cruise control and maintain the same speed as much as possible on each trip.What happens is my MPG varies from 16.8 to an all time best, 24 MPG between fill ups. What could be causing this?
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2000 f350 CCLB SRW 176,000. I have a touchy accelerator. About two weeks ago the CEL came on and it wouldn't do anything but idle for about 20-30 sec then fine. Then it got a little worse. I disconnected the two harnesses on the accelerator pedal and sprayed them with electrical cleaner. Put it back together and it seemed to be ok. Today the pedal is real sensitive. Sometimes bogging down other times accelerating real high even tho my foot is pretty consistent and gradually accelerating. No CEL tho. Do you think I am in for a new pedal assembly? Could it be something else? UVCH?
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This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
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I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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2003 Hyundai Accent. I will try to give a good description of the issue. Wheel was shaking (or was noticeable) at about 60 mph. Lessened after that but still bad. I had my tires changed and balanced as well as an alignment. My rear right toe is still off a bit. Now, the shaking is noticeable at 68-70 mph and higher. Pedal shakes, wheel shakes. I can feel some vibration all over including the seat, gas pedal and wheel the most. Wheel not jerking, just vibrating mildly.
It is not quite as bad as before and does not happen until 68-70, 10 mph higher than before the tire change/balance. I have put my back wheels on the front and it is the exact same condition - this would remove tire and balance as the culprit (?). I also hear an audible hum.. kind of a pulsing sound at 50 mph+. This speeds up and slows down with my speed. For instance if I am going 70.. I hear it every half second, 50 mph I hear it less often. It is pretty faint, not a thump. It seems to be coming from the front but I can't pin-point it. I feel no tire play up/down/side/side.
What is the next step here? I'm going to get the rear toe fixed but this shouldn't be the cause of the pulse/wheel + pedal vibration. Vibration/sound doesn't happen when I am braking. No rubbing shield behind rotor.
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I'm having a problem with my 6.0 back in September I started to notice a little miss with some black and white smock while accelerating so I took the truck to a power stroke specialist near my house to have it diagnosed they said my number 5 injector was starting to go bad so just this last week I finally got up enough money to get the injector changed I got the truck back yesterday from the mechanic. While driving I get a lot of shaking right around 1500 to 2000 rpms when I let off the accelerator it smooths out if I mash on it and keep the RPMs above 2000 it smooths out the truck still has a lot of power no check engine light has ever been on through this whole ordeal and there's a rough idle I guess the best way to describe the shacking would be if the truck was a standard shift and you were pulling a hill in to hi of a gear.
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My accent 2000 is having problems. It will turn over and run for about ten seconds then will sputter out and die. I replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump, all that is working well. (by the way, crazy you have to rip out the back seat to get to both the filter and pump) The battery is brand new, the alternator has been tested, i also just took the plugs out and cleaned them and re-gapped them. checked the wires to make sure they are sparking (plugs and wires are less then a yr old) I am not sure where to go from there.......
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