Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Engine Stalls Randomly And Skips / CEL Came On
Oct 4, 2014
have had many problems with my 2003 Accent. I am not a mechanic, but I suspect the problems are related. My engine sometimes stalls when I sit at a red light. I drive about twenty miles to work. On a good day it will just sputter occasionally. On a bad day it will stall as many as three times. It also frequently "skips" a little while driving. It's like a split second hiccup in engine power.
I also used to have a really hard time filling the gas tank. It would take about fifteen minutes when close to empty. I have had it worked on three times over the past three weeks. First they replaced the timing belt (which I already knew needed to be replaced). Then they replaced something called a charcoal canister and blew out all the vapor vents(?) ( Again, I am not a mechanic). After that the car ran ok for about two days, and I can now fill the tank in about two minutes. But, it began stalling again, just as bad as before. So, they replaced something called a MAP sensor (MAFF?).
It has been a couple of days and the car hasn't stalled . . . yet. However, it still skips occasionally while driving, and my engine light has come on again. The mechanic says the code has something to do with a barometric pressure problem. what might be wrong with it?
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My 2001 accent 4dr will start up no problem when everything is cold, but once I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes and if i shut it off, it will start back up but then it stalls and wont start back up, or if i just let it run a little bit longer it also stalls, no problems with fuel pump or relay when it is cold it starts right up, but once it stalls it wont turn back on....the pump is getting power even when its hot so could it be a bad wire or should i test the coils when it gets hot or am i completely looking at the wrong thing?
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2003 NISSAN Xterra
Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1
Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.
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I own a 2000 nissan altima GXE, and recently i have had a lot of problems, it would stall out randomly and OBD2 scanners said knock senor, EGR, and thermostat. I changed the knock sensor, cleaned the EGR valve and the EGR valve gasket, and haven't touched the thermostat. I changed other things like the crankshaft sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump is fine, alternator, valve cover gasket, and spark plugs. It started stalling all the time after I changed the rotor in the distributor cap, it stalled before but less than after we changed the rotor.
The car would stall randomly when the RPMs would go below 1000. I took it to my friends dad who is a mechanic and he was the one who changed the PCV valve and the EGR valve gasket and cleaned the EGR, he also cleaned the intake and changed the knock sensor. The SES light finally went away but the car would stutter when i would be stopped with the A/C on and i go to press on the gas. once the RPM hit 1000 it would stutter. It didn't stall until a week and a half later. I was told it could MAYBE be throttle position sensor, computer, thermostat, oil loss from valve cover gasket, and idle speed control.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
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I have a 2003 Jetta. It runs great until it just stalls out with no warning. There doesn't seem to be any particular thing I do to make it stall. I could be accelerating onto the highway, just driving down a residential street, moving along at 60 mph, or just starting out of the parking lot. It happens when it is cold and when it is hot. It could happen twice in one day and then not for two weeks. I have taken it to the dealer, a VW specialist, an excellent auto electric specialist, and the local mechanic. No one can figure it out. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, ignition wires, distributor, several engine sensors, complete tune-up, all filters, battery, and some misc wires and hoses. All told, I have spent over $3000. replacing stuff and trying to cure this car's ills. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the stalling. No codes have shown up at the VW dealer, the local guy, and Autozone. The auto electric guy drove it over 100 miles on one week with no problem, then it stalled on him. He immediately hooked it up to the diagnostic machine....and no codes! He was perplexed.
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I have an automatic 2000 Accent.. It stalls after a short distance. I changed the wires, spark plugs, and today I changed the fuel filter and put some injector cleaner but no change.. right after the filter change, it seemed to be OK but I drove about 10 minutes on highway and it stalled again.
If I wait about 10 minutes it starts again but not for long.. According to this, what else can it be?
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3 times now in the last week, my 2000 accent has stalled. each time it was at a low idle, slow moving speed. I was rolling up to a red light twice, and gliding into a parking spot the other. There was no coughing or sputtering. It just stopped. Each time, after about 20minutes or so, the car fires right up. it happened twice today after about 4 miles of driving. If the car sits for a day without running (on an off day from work) its a bit hard to start sometimes, but not consistently. Does this sound like a Crankshaft position sensor? or possible a fuel filter?
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Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
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I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.
I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:
CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)
I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.
I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.
Below are my thoughts on the next steps.
Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.
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My 2001 1.5l works fine when cold however once it reaches temperature it will hiccup and then stall! It WILL NOT fire up until it gets cold again. Usually happens when we are coasting to a stop. I'm not a mechanic but can am mechanically inclined. I brought it to Autozone and had the computer codes sent (yes check engine lt was on) One code was a fuel lean code. Cannot recall the exact number. When it act up it sounds like there is either no fuel or no fire. I cleaned the mass air sensor and put fuel treatment in it and I replaced the fuel gas cap.
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I have an 00 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed with about 192000 miles on it. I have put about a tank of gas through it since I've owned it, so I can't give a lot of background on it. When I got it the previous owner told me it was popping out of fifth gear and the clutch fluid leaked.
Upon driving it around a while I noticed it would pop out of fifth and third gears almost at random, but seemed to happen more when I applied throttle. I assumed it was an issue with the shifter not fully engaging the gears, and checked out the bushings under the hood and in the console. All looked good, and I didn't see any extra play.
I drove the car for about 30 miles straight and had to downshift and wasn't able to get the car to go into any gear but fifth. I was moving about 20 mph when this occurred. I was able to limp along to a parking lot where I let the car sit for about ten min and I shifted through the gears when stopped. I headed back home with this problem throughout the trip. There is a sound that happens on occasion (that stops when I press the clutch pedal) that sounds like a bad bearing in the clutch area.
When I'm stopped with the car in neutral and I release the clutch the car stalls like it's in gear. I was able to get the car to move some, but it really doesn't want to it acts like there is something jammed in the gears and popped really loud when I backed it up.
There is fluid for the master cylinder, and I can see the slave cylinder moving when the pedal is pressed. I jacked it up and removed the plug to check for gear oil, and it came pouring out, so I think it has fluid in the gearbox. I'm pretty sure it needs a clutch at the least. I think there may be some internal damage in the tranny, and I'm only into the car for the time it took to power wash a house and don't want to get involved in a big mess.
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
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I have an accent 2003 1.6 dohc crank but not start !!! Who do not fire and no gas ... and the check engine light is off when I turn the key on... (I test the check engine light and it is not burn).
I change the engine control relay and this is not work... I have all the wiring diagram and I check wire by wire and I don't find anything...
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I have a 2000 accent with 51000 miles on it. Since I bought it I have maybe put 75 miles on. The other day while going uptown to get lunch i was at a stop sign and i went to take off and it died. now all it does is fires for maybe a second and dies i have 50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I dont have a scanner and i cant check it by jumping the pins under the dash because there is no. 15 pin.
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Hyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
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I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
The only thing that I can think of, and I may be wrong, is that when the performance shop tuned my car they tuned it for a stock intake. This would mean that the car does not think it should be getting the airflow that it is and throttles it down to compensate.
I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
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