I keep getting p0420 and p0112. All new parts with in the last 10k miles new battery , starter , alternator , spark plugs , 02 sensors both bank 1 and 2 , catalytic converter aka exhast manifold , new map sensor , timing belt
The car drives fine it just hesitates to start up almost every time. Car has 210k miles
My accent is misfiring at startup, and randomly at stoplights. Pulling the code tells me it's the #2 cylinder. I have no trouble at highway speeds, the car really drives fine outside of stoplights and startups. The idle hovers around 900 rpm. Sometimes, once I'm on the road and driving, the CEL will go away altogether.
My main question is, is there any way to be certain that it's the 2/3 coil pack? I don't want to spend on parts that won't fix anything.
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
View 3 Replies I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
I have a Hyundai Accent 1500, 2001 model which wont start first time but will on second or third try. I was told it was low fuel pressure so fitted new fuel pump and filter but it is still the same. What could it be.
View 1 RepliesThis isn't my car, but It is my grandparents and I drive it often to my doctors 80 miles away, and to meetings 100 miles away. Both directions are very hilly and one of the road has 3 mile inclines. 2005 Hatch, Automatic.
Fresh spark plugs, oil change, oil filter, air filter. 95k miles.
Gas mileage is ok, but it has a really hard time getting up hill. I will be almost pedal to the floor going up the hill for 3 miles at 3k RPM.
Is this something I should be turning OD off for? I checked the manual and OD wasn't mentioned in the glossary.
My Mother has an accent 1.3 glx on a 55 plate the problem she has is that every time she accelerates the car does a hiccup (her words not mine) the engine management light comes on and off and then its fine.
View 3 RepliesJust got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
View 3 RepliesMy sister is having an odd issue on her 3-door accent. The hatch-open indicator light is on all the time. But when you press the brake pedal the light goes out. She has to disconnect the battery every night so it won't wear down.
Most of the suggestions were to check the sensor/latch at the hatch. But if the light is going out when you press the brake pedal - then the problem is nothing to do with the sensor. I think it might be a bad ground somewhere. I've taken the sensor/latch completely apart - the problem is not there.
She had this problem a few years ago. I wiggled and pulled on every harness under the dash, and I removed, checked, and reinstalled the rear bulbs. I don't think any of that worked, but eventually the light went out on its own. But now the problem is back. I think the problem might go away and come back depending on the moisture in the air.
I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
View 4 RepliesIn the last 2 weeks my 98 Honda Accord has started to hesitate when you start it up in the morning (or the first time for the day). It only hesitates for 2-3 seconds and catches and starts up fine the rest of the day. I know it's not the battery the battery is less than 2 years old and the battery plugs have been replaced recently as well. There is no check engine light flashing or anything saying there is a problem. What it might be? I can clarify that it isn't making the noise you'd associate with the battery being dead (trust me, I've been in the car with a dead battery and will never forget it!).
View 16 RepliesWe have a 2002 F-150 4.6L 4x4. The engine went bad and we bought a new engine (remanned ATK). Had this engine installed and a year later it was bad and was determined it was a manufacturer defect so they sent a replacement engine under warranty.
We had this new engine installed. The mechanic fired it up and it backfired through the intake. They claim that the compression is good, the fuel pressure is good, and the timing is correct. Can they check these things when the truck is not running? The mechanic is completely frustrated with the situation...
Everything I read leads to a timing issue but they say they checked it so before I go in there screaming I want to make sure it couldn't possibly be anything else...
Mine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
2009 Accent with 103K miles, which has been good to me so far. Over the past week or so, I've noticed that when I'm driving on the highway with the A/C on, the car occasionally hesitates, maybe every minute or two. I'm guessing this is from the A/C compressor cycling on and off, but it's never done this before. Does it seem like this is the beginning of the end for the compressor? Anything else it could be?
View 1 RepliesWhen cold starting the transmission shifts into reverse perfectly, then after backing up the car and shifting into drive it hesitates for 4 or 5 seconds before it engages the forward gear.
2008 Accent 4 door automatic 77,000 KM
Is there any way to stop the Nav / Radio unit from turning on the radio each time I start the truck, even if I had previously shut the radio? If I wanted the radio on, I would have turned it on! I can't find anything in the MFI.
View 14 RepliesI have hundai Accent 2003. It was working fine I parked it in the night came back in morning and it wont start and showing low oil pressure light. The ignition is not working.
View 1 RepliesThe lights that light up the A/C controls in my '03 Accent went out. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay and inside the car and they were all fine. Since only the lights relating to the A/C controls are out, is it just a bulb? if so, how do I change the bulb? I began to take off the dashboard cover, but I didn't see any bulbs.
View 14 RepliesEverytime I get gas, doesn't matter which location, my Hyundai does not want to start for the first several attempts. After it does, I keep it revved up for a few seconds and it is okay. What causes it?
View 5 RepliesI own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
View 1 Replies