So it finally happened...One day she was working just fine and now is dead. OK, starter is working, battery is new but there's absolutely no spark on any of the spark plugs. I wonder what could it be ?
View 8 RepliesMy wife's 03 accent cranks over good, but won't start. It does fire some but won't start. I tried squirting starter fluid in the intake and that only made it fire less. Spark is strong on all four cylinders. At first I thought I found the problem because it had weak spark on the middle two cylinders and i replaced that coil pack and now all four are strong, but still same problem.
She drove it home and parked overnight, and in the morning it wouldn't start. I don't think it is the timing belt. I replaced it not too long ago, and I took a peak behind the top of the cover and all still appears to be as it should.
I am now at a bit of a loss. I mean it has good spark, won't start with starting fluid, so what could it be?
My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
My friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
I have a 2002 Accent...Won't start....When I turn the key on...none of the idiot lights come on...It will turn over like crazy...but nothing....Have checked all fuses and relays... Then all of a sudden the lights will all come on and it starts...ran it for awhile drove it around a bit...shut it off...then tried to restart and it did...ok then 2 days later went to start it..and same thing...No idiot lights came on....and of course will not start..Someone mentioned to me it might be the ignition switch itself that might be causing the problem?
View 3 RepliesSo my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
View 1 RepliesI'm completely lost. My car won't start. It will turn over but not get a spark. I replaced the plugs and the camshaft position sensor and still having issues. I didn't change the wires when I did the plugs. Would that cause the problem to persist?
View 29 Replies2005 Accent has been essentially bug free until now.
Drove 3 hours, parked for 4 hours, then when to turn it on... cranked, no turn over. Tried again and the crank died. I figured, ok, no problem, battery getting long in the tooth, time for a new one.
A friend and I were able to push start it (5 speed manual), and yesterday I bought a new battery for it. No worries right?
Wrong. Same thing now. Cranking but no gas/spark/turn over. No check engine light or codes.
My next place I'm guessing I need to check is the fuel pump relay? Should I hear a click a few seconds after I turn the key to on? I believe I should, not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me, but right now there is none.
Relay in the fuse box? Do I need to check anything else first? Have multimeter.
I have an 05 accent and about 6 months ago I started to notice a clicking sound coming from the belts area ( it sounds exactly like a BBQ grill igniter when it's pressed), the sound starts as soon as I start the car and stays pretty much the whole time, I had the car lifted by my mechanic and he discovered the problem in one of the belts ( not sure what is called but it's the one at the very bottom of the belts, the first one you see when you lift the car ), the spark is seen at the edge of the pulley or where the belt sits on the pulley. The mechanic was puzzled about this, he recommended replacing the crank sensor as a first step, the car runs fine and there is no other symptoms or issues
View 2 RepliesI own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
I got a 2008 accent hatch basic model. Its got the 1.6 motor with 23k miles. It will not start at the moment. Battery is good, I am getting fuel. It is not getting spark, and my scanner wont link up to it. I don't know what else to trouble shoot. I am out of warranty car is a salvage title,car ran fine until today. I am thinking the ecu fried but I don't know? All fuses good. What can i check or how do I troubleshoot?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
View 3 RepliesFreshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
I am new here just bought a santa fe 2002 2.4 model and its playing up it will start run for a few mins then die and wont start again for a while. the crank sensor has been renewed as has the cam position sensor the fuel pump makes the normal noise so fuel is getting threw the only other symptom is when it cuts out and wont start i check both ignition coils and neither are sparking yet there is power to both, all fuses are fine .
View 21 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
All of a sudden my 2002 F150 6cyl, will crank but won't start. First thing I did was hook up my timing light to see if I'm getting spark when I crank. Tried a few different plug wires.....no spark. Can a coil just go out like that? I have a multimeter, what do I check to see if the plug that goes to the coil is providing correct power and input?
View 14 RepliesMy tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
View 4 RepliesEvery time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
View 5 RepliesI have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
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