My 2002 1.5td accent starts from cold every time but if drive about half a mile then stop when i restart it wont get past about 1200 revs. i leave it for 5 mins then runs fine...
View 1 RepliesI was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
Engine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
View 4 RepliesBack in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
It is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
View 3 RepliesCar starts and run find when cold. Shut off when warm up , will not restart? Could this be a crank sensor problem?
2004 accent GS with 150,000
So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
View 2 Replies2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
I just picked up an 02 Hyundai elantra manual trans that needed a transmission. ran fine before I replaced transmission but after putting it all back together the car now how has an erratic idle. it will rev from 2-4000 rpms. I tried spraying for vacuum leaks idle didn't pick up any higher. replaced tps and iac and didn't make a difference. the only thing that did make any difference is unplugging map sensor. dropped idle to about 1200 rpm but ran rough. could this affect the idle.
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
My tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
View 4 RepliesEvery time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
I have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesThe car is a 2002 Accent GL LC ...
Here's my problem, The brake lights will not come on at all.
I've checked all the fuses, they're fine. Same with all the globes. I can't source a wiring diagram anywhere so I just started looking for faults.
I started with the pedal switch. There is no power getting to it at all but it earths fine. I thought the feed from the battery could be severed so I fed 12v straight to it. The switch works, but the lights are still not getting power.
To follow any of the wires in either direction from the switch, it looks like I'll have to remove the dash and that's really something I don't want to attempt without a good reason.
I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
View 3 Replies