Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Smell Enters Through AC When Set On Fresh Air
May 7, 2014
I have a 2002 (built nov 2001) Excel 16 valve. Has developed a really bad sulfurous smell while driving. Smell enters through aircon when set on fresh air, minimizes (of course) when on recirculate. Immediately thought catalytic converter but I have had this checked and it appears OK, the mechanic used a camera to probe. Manifold / cat seems to be hotter than I remember, crackles and pops after stopping.
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I bought a used a 2008 LS600hL and noticed that when I run the fresh air setting with the AC off (like in winter) I get a musty smell in the cabin. I had Stevens Creek Lexus (Santa Clara Ca.) check it out and they tried to put a fragrance on it but that wore off after a few days. I have no problems with the water drainage (they checked) but wonder if I need to pull the AC coils and replace or something like that.
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What would be causing me to smell a hot burnt rubber smell when I go up hills. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent 5 speed manual...
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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I bought a 2005 Accent with 150k one year ago and 3 months ago got AT fluid and filter changed. Color was very dark my mechanic friend said.
I checked the fluid and after just 3 months light driving, noticed it smelled burnt and so just changed it again yesterday and it was very dark.
Another piece of info is that previously when got the fluid changed 3 months ago the level registered way above high when car was off but then then normal when running in N. Same thing is happening now. My knowledgeable mechanic friend just told me to keep my eye on it.
There are no shifting issues, except for just light clunk when shifting into Reverse, but other than that it's great.
I just want to know what problems might be going on to burn the fluid so fast and have strange level readings when car is off but okay when on. I read some stuff about solenoids but because shifting is great should I even consider that?
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My tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
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Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
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My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
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I have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
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The car is a 2002 Accent GL LC ...
Here's my problem, The brake lights will not come on at all.
I've checked all the fuses, they're fine. Same with all the globes. I can't source a wiring diagram anywhere so I just started looking for faults.
I started with the pedal switch. There is no power getting to it at all but it earths fine. I thought the feed from the battery could be severed so I fed 12v straight to it. The switch works, but the lights are still not getting power.
To follow any of the wires in either direction from the switch, it looks like I'll have to remove the dash and that's really something I don't want to attempt without a good reason.
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I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
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So it finally happened...One day she was working just fine and now is dead. OK, starter is working, battery is new but there's absolutely no spark on any of the spark plugs. I wonder what could it be ?
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i have a 2002 accent 4 door and it's stuck in park, its an automatic. I removed the park override little cover thingy next to the shifter and released it out of park but when I put it back in it got stuck again.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.6L automatic. I just bought it today. It has 171,000 miles. The car is misfiring. It does it when I give it gas. It won't misfire if I only give a little gas but if I was to drive it then it spits and sputters. I put new wires on. what are some common things on these cars. I am new to a Hyundai.
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I have an 02 Accent 1.6L that has about 190,000km on it. It is now misfiring under low rpm's (anything under 2000) and the engine light will flash and then go off after about 5 seconds. Once the engine light went on and stayed on but I got the code read and reset it. The code was P 0303 Cylinder 3 misfire. I replaced the coil pack since that is apparently the common cause of this issue.
No luck with the new coil pack still have the same problem. I started smelling gas about 1000km ago so I assume that it is burning rich and putting raw fuel into the engine. My spark plugs are under 10,000km new and the wires show no signs of any problems. My next thought was to buy a new MAF sensor and hope that is the issue.
What this could be? FWIW the engine seems to run a little better for about 5km after using a throttle body clean on the TB. It also runs minimally better when I use a Lucas fuel additive.
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Been having issues the past month with the car taking a couple times to start. It's very sporadic. Sometimes I'll only have this issues once a week. Sometimes once every other day.
Engine cranks it's just not firing. Almost like what would happen if you were out of gas. Sometimes it takes 2-3 times. Just yesterday it took about 5-6 times. Once started though the car seems fine. Drives fine, haven't really noticed any hesitation nor has it died while driving.
1.6 automatic
130,000 miles
no CEL on
new plugs at 100,000 miles
Changed the fuel filter when i noticed it happening and ran some fuel treatment cleaner in it.
We took it into the shop and of course every time they checked it out it started up fine. even left the car there for 2 days and started up fine for them. They said they couldn't really diagnose it as it seems ok to them.
Fuel pump going bad? Fuel pressure regulator going bad? Crankshaft position sensor going bad?
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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My friends have a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 DOHC that I've been puttering around with all weekend.
The door was left open a crack and the battery drained. It was brought in, didn't charge right (he said he accidentally put the cables on reverse). Tried to install it, still did not start, put it back on charger correctly, and then re-installed. It was unknown at the time, but the black cable that went from the negative post to the fuse box popped off, and then he said there was no lights in the car, but tried to start it anyway.
We tested the battery both with a voltmeter and at a parts store - its testing like a brand new battery. I've tested all the fuses in the box under the hood, and in the box by the driver's feet. I also tested continuity in the ground to the engine, ground to the body, ground to the fuse box, and the alternator to the fuse box cables. All the wires show up as less than 0.5 ohms resistance (I'm assuming since I didn't get an infinity reading that they are intact).
I then tried to just put the key in the 'on' position to see what I could get - no interior lights, no start, no accessories at all. It wouldn't even let me shift it with the key in. I've got no clue what left to try. I guess these don't really have a "main relay" but at any event I don't know how to properly test these relays anyhow.
This used to be my car, and last year I replaced the positive cable to the starter, and the CD player was erroring out (it kept reading that there was a CD being inserted then stopping and then turning on the radio) so I just pulled the fuse under the hood. I don't know if they would have some effect over a year after the fact.
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I got a 2002 accent 1.3 si, engine warning light comes on but doesn't seem to affect cars running, no misfires, no stalling, still good acceleration and mpg, occasional engine revving on its own, changed tps sensor and engine revving on its own was worse. Was told by hyundai mechanic to disconnect battery for 30 seconds and if light went out it was either faulty tps sensor or an intermittent non constant fault reading, light did go out for some time but is now back on.
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I have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
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