Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 Slow Acceleration / Seems Like Losing Power
Dec 9, 2015
I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent 1.6 DOHC 5-speed Manual Transmission ... so here is my problem;
Regardless of whether I am going from a complete stop or if I am simply changing gears the acceleration is practically non-existent, sometimes taking up to 3 minutes to accelerate just 5 mph. While I am driving at a consistent speed of 65 mph, the RPMs will randomly jump from 3000 to 4000 or 5000 with no apparent cause.
I have been told everything from putting air in the tires to replacing the clutch. I do not have the time nor the money to try every option of fixing this issue. I need to attempt to narrow this down to as few probable causes as possible.
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My 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with a 1.5L SOHC and manual transmission, with 207,000 trouble-free miles on it.
I have recently noticed a hesitation under acceleration. It happens most frequently under hard acceleration under lower RPM, if I'm close to lugging the engine. The engine "hiccups," almost like it is missing a cylinder. It will hiccup 2-3 times until engine RPM's increase, then smooths out.
What the cause may be? Last changes: Plugs at 175K; Plug wires @ 160K, Fuel filter @ 100K, Timing belts at 60K, 120K, 182k. K&N air filter cleaned at 50K intervals, last time @ 200K.
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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Today I had to boost my car three times, once boosted, I was loosing power, my lights dimmed, and my rev-ometer had stopped working.
My father said it would be a connector cable, the battery was very corroded. I just had my cat-converter replaced wednesday. today is the first time i've had this issue, i've had the car for just over a month now.
I'm really hoping its not my alternator. Because that would suck.
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My '02 Hyundai accent's power steering pulley makes noise when the car is turned on all the way. That noise doesn't go away until I shut off the car. It is not the same noise as a belt slipping as I have that problem before and had fixed it by tightening the alternator adjuster bolt.
When I spray a little bit of WD-40 on the P/S pulley bolt(bolt and split washer) the noise goes away. However, it comes back the next day, since I am guessing the WD-40 has been dried away. So, should I replace the pulley to fix this issue or is it something else?
Pic of Bolt (Its yellow and black in the pic) ....
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2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
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I recently bought a 2002 VW Passat 2 weeks ago. I love the car and the drive, but the acceleration is excellent at times, and very slow at times. Also the car gives me a stutter step every once in a while while at low speeds....I bought the car in Mass so I have 13 days left for the dealer warranty. What it is?
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Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
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I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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This began occurring after I hosed down my engine with degreaser, stupid me. Car will begin to sputter like it is losing power around 30-40mph, and then it's fine. Rarely it happens around higher speeds with the cruise control on around 65 its just fine and the CEL never came on. Well yesterday i pulled the battery cable for 30 minutes to let things reset, then i got a CEL, code P0030 which I think is an o2 sensor, so i guess it went bad from the water perhaps? What part I need, where it is located and how difficult this would be to do in the driveway?
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Our ABS light, anti-skid light, and engine light are on. The light came on when 3 year old son hit it. It just never went off. Dealership hooked it up to diagnostics and said we needed to spend almost 500 on a new ABS system. ALSO, at the same time, the car now sounds like its working very hard to accelerate. The rpm's go up, but there is no additional power. Is this connected to the ABS problem, or is this a transmission problem? Took it to a mechanic and he didn't check the transmission. After talking to him, he said it could be the transmission.
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2005 hyundai accent, I've noticed something unusual with my trans, whenever I start driving at lower speeds ( which I do all the time to save gas) the transmission shifts into 2nd and 3rd just fine, but in 3rd gear ( at around 2.5 rpm ) the RPM gage goes down a little bit ( about 2.1 rmp), it almost feels like it went into 4th gear and it happens really smooth, it almost feels like its supposed to do that, the car later shifts into 4rd at around 3 rpm, there's no jerking, stalling or sounds at all, this does NOT happen when I take off at a higher speed and acceleration. This transmission has 55.000 miles on it and besides this it works perfectly fine.
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I drive a 2002 4-dr 1.6 L Accent and there is a strange, high-pitched squeaking that comes about from somewhere under the car at very slow speeds (30 mph or below). If I hit the brakes, the noise continues sometimes as the car slows. (The noise isn't the brakes, though, I know that), but if I hit the gas pedal slowly, the noise stops. Whatever is vibrating underneath doesn't seem to be causing a problem at high speeds. Or I just can't hear it.
Secondly, I am going to try to do some tune-ups for the summer for lack of better things to do, mostly, I can pretty much do anything (intake/exhaust, engine, electrical) as long as I can find detailed instructions.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple of days ago it started losing power when I gave it gas, like it was dragging or gasping for air. I could barely get it to 60 on the highway unless going down hill and when going up even a low grade I could barely maintain 40 mph. I took it to Hyundai dealership and the mechanic confirmed it seemed to have a "suction" problem. After about 20 minutes I was told that the catalytic converter had broke apart and been sucked into the engine.
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97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
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2002 accent 1.6 motor and 5 speed,when I take off the motor sputters for a moment then is fine and if I let it slow down in any gear and step down on it it will sputter again then is fine, so far I have changed the plugs and air filter cleaned the throttle body and MAP, the wires and timing belt were changed out not long ago, took it in and hooked the machine to it and it said misfire bank 1 oxygen sensor upstream so replaced it and still have the problem, the body has 200,000 on it and the motor 100,000.
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Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
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My 2004 Accent GLS has stalled intermittently for me and my daughter several times. However, the mechanics cannot replicate the problem and it is not revealing any codes when analyzed. Additional details would include the fact that the stalling incidents have occurred while sitting in slow traffic or when slowing when approaching an intersection. After it stalls, 3 of the 4 times it started again within 10 minutes.
This last time, it took several hours before we were able to restart it. There is no fuel smell when restarting. The check engine light is not on. The problem actually began as a "failure to start" problem, which I thought could have been a faulty battery as, even though the engine was turning over and I didn't really suspect the battery, it would start when jumped. The problem then moved to a stalling problem.
So far, I've replaced a battery (probably a waste), the mechanic found some frayed wires coming from the ignition which he fixed and I'm now having them replace the crank sensor. Does replacing this sensor, though no code is apparent, on the right track? Should I be focused elsewhere? Is there a common 2004 Accent problem? It's my daughter's first car and only has 67,000 miles on it, so I'm in no hurry to get a new car!
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