Today I had to boost my car three times, once boosted, I was loosing power, my lights dimmed, and my rev-ometer had stopped working.
My father said it would be a connector cable, the battery was very corroded. I just had my cat-converter replaced wednesday. today is the first time i've had this issue, i've had the car for just over a month now.
I'm really hoping its not my alternator. Because that would suck.
One morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
View 5 RepliesMy '02 Hyundai accent's power steering pulley makes noise when the car is turned on all the way. That noise doesn't go away until I shut off the car. It is not the same noise as a belt slipping as I have that problem before and had fixed it by tightening the alternator adjuster bolt.
When I spray a little bit of WD-40 on the P/S pulley bolt(bolt and split washer) the noise goes away. However, it comes back the next day, since I am guessing the WD-40 has been dried away. So, should I replace the pulley to fix this issue or is it something else?
Pic of Bolt (Its yellow and black in the pic) ....
2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
So yesterday we removed the radio from the car to install an after market one, after realising the after market radio had different cable inputs we reinstalled the original radio that was in there. But now the radio won't turn on, the clock doesn't work and the interior light isn't working. What the issue could be?
View 2 RepliesMy wife drives an 04 Accent and we seem to have a major issue. Here goes...if you turn the headlight switch to the first spot(parking lights etc.) the digital display disappears and the cluster gauges freakout and all the warning light flicker. When you proceed to the second spot(headlight on) no headlights, high or low, but when you pull and hold flash to pass the high beams work as does the instrument panel.
when you turn the switch back to the off position the trip meter resets back to 0.0. I've replaced the multi-function switch and no change. Here's the kicker, if you turn the blower motor on, the instrument panel acts up the same way and the blower motor, a/c, defrost don't work, but if you pull and hold flash to pass the blower motor, a/c all that works great. This is my wife's car and since it is in this state she really shouldn't be out in it.
Looking for information in regards to the issues that I'm having with my brake lights including the 3rd brake light.
I have running lights, backup lights, and turn signals; I have checked all the fuses inside and under the hood; I have cleaned 2 grounds on the left rear of the car; I have checked the bulbs; I have jumped the wires at the brake light switch. All to no avail.
I have also have no power to the at the brake light fuse.
A week ago I noticed that the Truck ( 2003 Saturn Vue AWD) doesn't go up hill easily anymore, then one night when I was driving the horn started going off and on for sometimes. Also the radio turned off. This morning I have the heater on and light on I drove for about 20 mns; I stopped at the ATM machine, turned the engine off. When I restarted the car the battery light came on and the dashboard light was dimmed. I was about 5 mns from home so I made home.
I don't want to get stock on I95 during rush hour.
Friday, May 13 I brought my car to the shop because the Check Engine light came on and the engine started loosing power. $540 later they had replaced both O2 sensors. A day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Monday and they replaced one of the sensors that was defective according to them. One day later the light was back on. Brought the car back on Wednesday and they replaced the sensor again, telling me the brand was not compatible with my car. One day later night the light came back on. Brought the car back in Friday May 20 in the morning and they have my car since. They can't figure out whats wrong. A week before all that happed I had an oil leak and they replaced the oil filter and a seal. Could that be it?
View 2 RepliesHave a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.
I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?
I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
I have a 2000 honda civic ex that I recently bought used. It ran fine with no problems for a good month then the check engine light came on and it started overheating. I could smell burning oil and see smoke rising from the hood. I checked the coolant and it was all out. So I filled it back up. Drove about 20 miles and during the drive when sitting idle the car would shudder and jolt around for a second, after about 20 miles I could see the coolant that I just filled up was all gone. I could hear some bubbling sound, all of the coolant had burnt away and was steaming. I did some research and it could be a blown head gasket, but I'm not sure and was seeking how to fix it or to clarify if it was a head gasket.
View 5 RepliesMy tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
View 4 RepliesEvery time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
I have a '02 Accent with a 1.6L. Over the summer the A/C blew ice cold. I changed all the belts and after a few weeks I noticed that whenever I turned on the heat or A/C the car squeaked. After that I saw that the compressor would stop spinning whenever the squeaks happen. I sprayed the pulley and clutch with silicone spray and it worked great for a day then the same problem again. Eventually I snapped the A/C belt, replaced the idler pulley, and the tensioner bolt but still the same problem. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesThe car is a 2002 Accent GL LC ...
Here's my problem, The brake lights will not come on at all.
I've checked all the fuses, they're fine. Same with all the globes. I can't source a wiring diagram anywhere so I just started looking for faults.
I started with the pedal switch. There is no power getting to it at all but it earths fine. I thought the feed from the battery could be severed so I fed 12v straight to it. The switch works, but the lights are still not getting power.
To follow any of the wires in either direction from the switch, it looks like I'll have to remove the dash and that's really something I don't want to attempt without a good reason.
I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
View 3 RepliesSo it finally happened...One day she was working just fine and now is dead. OK, starter is working, battery is new but there's absolutely no spark on any of the spark plugs. I wonder what could it be ?
View 8 Repliesi have a 2002 accent 4 door and it's stuck in park, its an automatic. I removed the park override little cover thingy next to the shifter and released it out of park but when I put it back in it got stuck again.
View 5 Replies