Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Ignition Turns Over But No Sound
Mar 3, 2016
Ignition turns over, but no sound. There is power to lights, radio, etc. Tried a boost, thinking it was battery, but the boost was unsuccessful. Tried using the spare key but that was also unsuccessful.
The tow driver said it sounded like a fuse or clutch safety sensor. I also heard that it could be the battery leads. We're fairly new at fixing the car ourselves, learning as we go, so not knowing some otherwise basic things, like how to clean and tighten battery leads, what fuse to change, or what the heck a clutch safety sensor is.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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I have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
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2001 Golf with A/T. 130,000 miles. Daughter went to turn key, heard a "snap" sound, car wouldn't start...no "click" from any electrical contact, starter apparently not getting any "juice". key now turns in switch too easily...can't feel the usually resistance when turning key. Key fob works, steering wheel turnable, can move trans lever out of "Park" into all positions with foot on brake. Broken key cylinder, or some link to ignition switch? Car at repair shop, waiting it's turn.
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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So this morning, it was -5 degrees outside. I put the key in the ignition, but I could not turn it forward at all, it was like it was frozen. So I took a lighter, heated up my key, and put it in the ignition, let it set for a few seconds, and I was able to turn it over. I have had to this every winter so far, but it only happens when it is really cold out. The only thing I can think of is moisture in the ignition.
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Heard a wining noise from the front end when I accelerated about 4 days ago, fast forward to today - it kept getting worse and worse, turning into a grinding. The mechanic said to replace the power steering line and something else around it..
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I'm getting a pulsing. High-pitch squeak from what sounds like the left/front wheel when making left turns and occasionally driving straight at low speeds after a left turn, usually while NOT applying the brakes. In fact, applying the brakes firmly stops the sound until I release the pedal. After that, sometimes it comes back immediately and sometimes not.
Two weeks ago I replaced the R/F cv axle and the sway bar link. Harder job than it should have been because I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint bolt free.
This past weekend, I replaced both front rotors because I was certain that one was warped since I was getting a very loud pulsing squeal only when braking. I also have had a tendency to over torque the lug nuts which I had read can cause warped rotors. I now use a torque wrench for that.
I've made sure that the rotor shield isn't touching anything and checked the pads for damage and unusual wear. Pads are at about 75%.
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So the lights work fine don't dim when trying to start the car. when you turn the ignition there is one thump but no clicks or revs like belts are moving. The battery is fairly new less than a year and as mentioned all electric things seem to be fine. I was also told by the tow guy that it was the starter but just want to be sure.
Advanced auto states they will test it but I need to get it out of the car. Only problem is I cant find it. I've looked at the manual online and seen numerous diagrams but I don't know the physical location of it do I need to get under the car to remove it? Do i need to remove anything to get to it? I haven't seen any live pictures showing where it is and I've googled it for a while now.
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I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood, if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I just recently purchased a 2000 mk4 GTI and as stated above, the radio turns and all the buttons work but there is no sound. The amp in the back was removed and there are two clips that are not hooked up to anything. I am wondering if the radio needs the amp hooked up for it to work at all.
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We own a 2000 Toyota Tundra--90,000 miles--obviously not used hard. When we turn on the ignition, we hear a ticking sound--sounds like it might be coming from underneath car passenger side. The sound seems to disappear as we drive it. What it might be? Toyota service person told us it might be exhaust manifold and estimated maybe 2K to fix it.
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I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
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My tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
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Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
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