Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Engine Cranks Just Not Firing
Aug 2, 2013
Been having issues the past month with the car taking a couple times to start. It's very sporadic. Sometimes I'll only have this issues once a week. Sometimes once every other day.
Engine cranks it's just not firing. Almost like what would happen if you were out of gas. Sometimes it takes 2-3 times. Just yesterday it took about 5-6 times. Once started though the car seems fine. Drives fine, haven't really noticed any hesitation nor has it died while driving.
1.6 automatic
130,000 miles
no CEL on
new plugs at 100,000 miles
Changed the fuel filter when i noticed it happening and ran some fuel treatment cleaner in it.
We took it into the shop and of course every time they checked it out it started up fine. even left the car there for 2 days and started up fine for them. They said they couldn't really diagnose it as it seems ok to them.
Fuel pump going bad? Fuel pressure regulator going bad? Crankshaft position sensor going bad?
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BCAA at the tow mentioned that there was no electrical firing when I turned the key, as a result I purchased a new cam shaft sensor and installed today but the problem still persists. I 'm thinking I need to get the other half of the sensor that plugs into its female part, but am uncertain if there are any other potential possibilities to the problem at hand.
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I went to start my car this morning it cranks and nothing it is not firing at all, and I do not hear the fuel pump when I open the door like I usually do. It just happened all the sudden. Is there a way to check fuel pressure in these in the W8? Also any known problems to make them do this? So irritating...
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My hyundai accent 2004 standard doesn't start. The engine crank, but there's no fire. I change the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Also change my timing belt, my alternator, my starter, my control box and my computer. But if I pull the car with my pickup, it runs. While the engine is running, the computer doesn't give me any diagnostic code. I also check my fuse, relay,... Even jump start the starter to check if it was the switch.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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I got a 2002 accent 1.3 si, engine warning light comes on but doesn't seem to affect cars running, no misfires, no stalling, still good acceleration and mpg, occasional engine revving on its own, changed tps sensor and engine revving on its own was worse. Was told by hyundai mechanic to disconnect battery for 30 seconds and if light went out it was either faulty tps sensor or an intermittent non constant fault reading, light did go out for some time but is now back on.
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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My 04 accent will not start. I have an automatic. It cranks but will not start. First I replaced the fuel pump and relay. Still nothing. Wasn't getting fire until my friend tested to coil and i tried to crank while the tester was in the ground wire while I turned it over and it cranked. Only worked for about an hour and is still not starting but it sounds like something isn't telling it to crank?
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I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
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My daughter has a 03 Accent that within the past week will not start at certain times. Some times it will some times it wont. It always cranks but doesn't catch. If she tries to start the car and it cranks, but doesn't catch, if you wait 15 -20 minutes, or longer, it will turn over and run fine. We are thinking crank position sensor or possibly fuel pump...
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About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
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My wife's 03 accent cranks over good, but won't start. It does fire some but won't start. I tried squirting starter fluid in the intake and that only made it fire less. Spark is strong on all four cylinders. At first I thought I found the problem because it had weak spark on the middle two cylinders and i replaced that coil pack and now all four are strong, but still same problem.
She drove it home and parked overnight, and in the morning it wouldn't start. I don't think it is the timing belt. I replaced it not too long ago, and I took a peak behind the top of the cover and all still appears to be as it should.
I am now at a bit of a loss. I mean it has good spark, won't start with starting fluid, so what could it be?
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Went to Advanced Auto to get the battery tested since it takes a few cranks for the engine to start. I thought it was the battery but after testing the battery they think maybe its the starter because the battery and alternator shows that its perfect.
I will also be taking the car to get the timing belt and drive belt replaced and the spark plugs and wires. I just want to know if you all think its the starter or should i check anything else.
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Accent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with about 222,000 mikes on it. It runs extremely smoothly, but I've had problem after problem with startup. My clutch sensor was loose for a while, replaced my starter, replaced the ignition coil, everything that could stop the thing from starting up has happened. Finally for the last couple weeks, the car has had these spells where it will crank forever and not start, like it did when I replaced the coil (I did that again just in case, not the problem). These spells last varying mounts of time.
A few times it's started up in minutes, and two times now it's been out for at least a day. I've checked everything and it seems to not be getting spark when it's not starting. I'd really like any insight to this. I'm considering changing my crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, but I can't even find those on my engine. What could be causing this? I really need a car that will start up and is reliable. It should be noted that the car USUALLY starts fine. This only happens about once every 5 or 6 days.
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Recently my F150 has had issues starting in the mornings. It is in an insulated garage. It takes about 10 cranks before it fires. Then it struggles to run like its not getting fuel for a second or two, then rpm's jump to 1200 and has a slight miss for another second or two, then it smooths out and is fine. Leaving my driveway it will have a miss around 2000rpm for about two seconds then the truck will run perfect the rest of the day. It can sit outside in the cold for 10 hours while i am at work and will fire right up and run great. The issues only happens in the morning.
All the plugs were changed about 6 months ago. Fuel pump and fuel pump drive module were changed about 3 weeks ago. The check engine light has come on twice. The first time I didn't have access to a code reader and since the truck started right away and then died instantly i figured that was why the light came on, so i disconnected the battery and re-connected it. Light didn't come back on for a week. Second time code was for misfire on cylinder 5. I am changing the fuel filter this week. If that doesn't work i was gonna change the #5 coil.
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Car died at idle on park. Tried to start it back up and was only getting crank. I took it to a local mech and he said my timing belt failed. I paid for the repair and the car still wouldn't start. The shop said the ecu went out. I replaced the cam position sensor and main relay under the dash. Still not getting it to start. I also have a ecu from an 05 accent, would this be plug and play? What else can I do?
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So heres the deal 1989 civic dx hatchback 106k on the odometer automatic 1.5l d15b2 engine . It's been having delayed starts taking 3 to 6 cranks before firing up then running fine, suddenly it dawned on me maybe it was the distributor , so I swapped it with a spare I had because sure enough the old one had red death red dust in the cap. Cleaned the contacts set the timing reassembled, some wires broke on the back of the wiring harness to the distro. Rewired them, the car kept getting worse I jumped it and took it to my friend a vw mechanic it drove 49 miles there fine after the jump, new plugs new wires new fuel filter we did the wire job set the timing checked the timing belt got the battery tested and the alternators new and did a oil change also did a coolant flush a few weeks ago.
It started right up drove it back to Chicago , in the morning I was getting off the highway it stopped running no noises I pulled over 8 cranks later it started parked it 3 blocks away, went to test drive it when I stopped at a light it shut off cramming it and hitting the gas pedal got it to start drove it a block down it shut off at a stop sign and I parked it. What it is I'm throwing code 8 which is a top dead sensor which I think is in the distro which I replaced a month ago. Fuel pump sounds like its priming but you have to gas it and crank it to start it which is odd for a automatic , it is girk injected is this tds sensor going to do that by itself? Or could it be a ignition module? ( what I read online) starter? Main relay , fuel pump switch?
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2004, DWR, 4x4, 6.0 PSD. One day he started the truck moved it 100' shut it off and the next day it would crank over but not fire. It will fire and run rough if you give it a shot of starting fluid. It shows codes P0401, P0275,P0528, P132B.
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