I have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
View 1 Replies2004 TB EXT, 4.2L I-6. Steady misfire on a single cyl. Changed spark plugs, (installed A/C Delco Iridium, 41-103). Fired it up, and miss was gone for about 20 seconds, then came back. Scan turned up P0301, Cyl #1 misfire. I picked up a coil pack, but before installing it, is there any diagnostic tests I can do on the connector, or any tester for coil packs? Not wanting to install this $80 part, (rendering it non-returnable), and have it make no difference. Hoping to at least be able to check for proper voltage supply and trigger signal at coil connector, if possible. Also, any checks I can perform on the injector harness? Thinking it may be one or the other. Or should I swap coil pack to another cylinder, and see if problem moves with it?
View 2 RepliesI am trying to get my spark plugs changed and having a hard time trying to figure out how to get the coil packs out. I have done some research already but couldn't really find anything solid for the GS 460 specifically. Many people had useful information on the other GS models (300,350 etc) but since the 460 is not as common, I couldn't really find anything.
I read the guys use pry bars to wedge the motor a little to have extra clearance to pull the coil packs out but it seems the LS has a little more room to work with. On the GS 460 however, it is pretty tight and even using a pry bar I really do not believe the coil pack will have room to be remove completely.
Having issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
I've decided to jump on the DIY bandwagon a do my own 60K service. I've found the great write-ups on the oil changes, and even the spark plug removal; but need a detailed explanation or even pictures of how to remove the coil packs to the plugs; I don't want to break anything.
View 3 RepliesAfter changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
View 1 RepliesI've had my 24V off the road for about a year now working on it. I did some wire tucking and what not, nothing major. Now when I go to start it, it won't start and it will make a popping noise from a coil pack and it starts to smoke.
View 6 RepliesChanged the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L, stick shift. My CEL came on and I had it read. Mechanic told me it was P1128 (Fuel Lean) or something like that. Looked it up on line and everything said to check for air leaks and then look at the MAF Sensor. I checked and saw no leaks. Took out MAF Sensor and cleaned it with MAF Cleaner. Disco'd battery to reset computer. CEL went out for maybe 30 minutes and then back on. Didn't do anything with it for about 4 months, now car stutters sometimes.
So, I finally broke down and bought MAF Sensor and replaced myself. Disco'd battery to reset computer. Started up and engine was not smooth at first(30 seconds) then smoothed up. But CEL still on. Drove home (25 minutes) and checked again this morning. CEL is off! Only problem is that the car stutters a little at acceleration. Smooth when at cruising RPM and speed. Just stutters a little at start of acceleration and when switching gears until at cruising speed. Is this going to go away? Is the computer just getting set up after changing MAF Sensor?
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
Its a 1994 with 4.0, automatic, 4x4. Running fine, parked it, a week later I'm getting a bad but sporadic miss that according to the stealership is the 3 cylinders on the right bank dropping in and out. Driving down the road you can feel them drop out and when they come back its a kick in the pants like a turbo kicked in.
Shop says wires are good, plugs are good, and then lost me when they started talking around in circles and not making much sense.
What could make 3 cylinders all on the same side of the engine drop in and out? This wasn't anything that slowly came on. Fine one day, crap the next. The only thing I did prior to was replace the IAC because it was idling high, it was cruddy inside, and it looked like it was original. It was running fine after that till this issue popped up out of nowhere.
Mileage was claimed to be 178k but I'm beginning to suspect it's probably 278k.
97 SL ATX - Not firing on cylinders 3 and 6; no voltage to that coil.
I've checked:
Plugs
Wires
Coils
PTU
ECU
Timing
So I guess the CAS is the next best guess. So where exactly IS the CAS...and how do i test it? Also, where is the timing mark on the crank pulley? Cams are all aligned but I didn't see a mark for the crank and don't know where I should be looking.
Started up my car the other night and my engine light came on, trac light came on... VSC msg came on the dash, engine was rough idling. I drove it home after checking my fluids... i took the OBD scanner to see whats going on, hoping i just need a battery change. Codes popped up P0354, P0300-0306. basically ignition coil malfunction, and my cylinders were misfiring.
I am at 62k miles and warranty crapped out at 50k. the problem was obviously electric, since all 6 were misfiring, otherwise it would only be a few. I haven't had any engine work, I just recently did a proper oil change at home(royal purple 5W30), which I've done since I've had the car in 07.. I took the car to the dealership for the CPU reprogramming for the recall in April.
About to take the car back to get it checked up on and fixed.. I am lowered on coilovers and 20" rims, which gives it a rough ride, but i dont think it would cause this problem. i dont track/race the car and i drive it relatively civilized. Lowered since 30k miles and 20"rims since 50k miles.
What could've gone wrong? timing off etc... i pulled my engine cover to check the connection points for the coils, all seems fine, no corrosion on the grounding points. i was only able to check the front 3 coils, the other 3 were hidden in the back and i wasnt able to look at them. i assume they should be fine as well..
Have a 2006 Ford Taurus that has two dead cylinders. Cylinder 3 and 4. Code says bad coil. I replaced with new coil and plugs. Same problem. Replaced wires and same problem.
Car has 65K. What is causing both cylinders to be dead? Pulled wires off while running and no spark on 3 and 4.
I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
View 14 RepliesAl right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
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