Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 / 1.5L - Clicking When Filling Up Gas
Jul 23, 2015
Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
View 5 RepliesEvery time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
View 5 Replies2002 accent gl. 96000 miles...strange clicking or ratcheting sounds that I thought were drivers side 1/2 shafts going bad...replaced it, still has the sound...replaced left shock-strut was bad as well. sounds like differential noise, almost like a baseball card hitting bicycle spokes! previous owner told me this sound has been there for over 1 year and he put both 1/2 shafts in as well, sound is still there. Trans was a little low on fluid(automatic/overdrive). tried driving car with o/d off, manually shifting and driving through all the gears, sound is still there.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
A few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
View 1 RepliesIt seems like my passenger door is filling with water, whenever I open it, it comes pouring out through the drain in the bottom. It also seems the water ingress has killed my central locking on that side. It's getting in through the gap between the door and the window. How to keep it out?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
View 2 RepliesRecently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
View 5 RepliesHaving an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
When decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
View 20 RepliesHave replaced BOTH half axles. Clicking sound present when driving - does NOT change when turning right or left. Seems slightly affected by acceleration/deceleration - makes clicking slightly louder/quieter. Clicking is DIRECTLY proportional to speed - slows down until car stops. Transmission works fine, fluid level is correct. New trans fluid and filter. What the heck could this be? Wheel bearings seem solid - jack up car and try to wiggle wheel - solid as a rock both right and left sides. WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???
View 4 RepliesI have an 05 accent and about 6 months ago I started to notice a clicking sound coming from the belts area ( it sounds exactly like a BBQ grill igniter when it's pressed), the sound starts as soon as I start the car and stays pretty much the whole time, I had the car lifted by my mechanic and he discovered the problem in one of the belts ( not sure what is called but it's the one at the very bottom of the belts, the first one you see when you lift the car ), the spark is seen at the edge of the pulley or where the belt sits on the pulley. The mechanic was puzzled about this, he recommended replacing the crank sensor as a first step, the car runs fine and there is no other symptoms or issues
View 2 RepliesMy daughter has bought a 2003 4 door accent and on the way to work she lost most of the brakes. I could not see any fluid leaking and the level was ok. I did try pushing on the brake pedal with my hand and it was making a noise like a clicking? I was thinking it was just the brake light switch but not sure. The place she bought it from put new brakes on it when the driver side was getting really hot. I am thinking maybe air in the system? It sounded like a caliper was sticking when I test drove it but only a couple of times. You would have some brakes but you had to pump the peddle.It is in a parking lot right now but I can work on it unless it is some sort of different? I am going to try to bleed it in a little bit but was thinking I should ask around. I read that the piston could be sticking but can you just rebuild the master cylinder to fix it if that is what it is? I could pull the pedal back a little bit. I only looked at for 4 or 5 minutes kinda dark and no tools with me.
View 10 RepliesRecently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
Two weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
I have an 2002 Hyundai Auto.
My car has the clicking noise under the following situations:
1) rolling in neutral with/without brake applied
2) rolling/decelerating without gas pedal pressed (I guess the same as rolling in neutral) with/without brake applied
The noise is the most noticeable when going at around 20 to 30mph, and would be gone under very low speed <5-10 mph. The weird thing is when I press the gas pedal and the car is accelerating, the noise is gone too.
My mechanics said it is because the wheel cylinder which is noisy. But I don't quite understand why the noise is gone when the car is accelerating.