Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 Car Will Start And After 1 - 2 Minutes Violently Shakes Then Stall
Feb 5, 2012
My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
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2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback, the car has about 41,6xx miles on it. When i drive it between 2nd and 3rd gear it shift violently, its almost like it shifts due to pressure, it also happens when it downshift too. Also the reverse went out, i can hear the pump running and it goes into reverse but when i press on the gas it acts like it in neutral. This is a daily driver for me.
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My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
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I drive a 2002 Accent GL, automatic transmission with only 86,000 on it. For a while now I've been having transmission issues where the car will jerk violently when shifting or starts to rev in certain gear or in park. It also doesn't seem like it knows what gear it wants to be in half the time when I accelerate. Recently, while driving somewhere, it got real worse. It started revving and jumping and redlining and just going crazy while I was driving. I turned the car off and waited a while and turned it back down and it seemed to calm the issue a bit.
But I am afraid to drive right now. It's not the fluid. I've changed it twice in the past two years. Never works. I've seen issues like this on here before. If it IS the transmission needing to be replaced, why so soon with just 86,000 miles on it? And would having the transmission rebuilt be a better choice, cost-wise, but still just as effective?
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I took my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 5 speed it a certified mechanic shop that I have used before. This scan show a speed sensor (which I already replaced) and the ECU. He said that the ECU is discontinued and that he could not do the repair.
The car will run fine for 10 minutes then will stall, wait 5 minutes and it will run again for 5-10 minutes stall and repeat the process. Question, what is involved with swapping the ECU with an identical numbered one from a junk yard? Also could swapping out my headlight assembly have any effect, this started to happen shortly after the new headlights were installed.
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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I remember the days when we experienced flat spots on our tires. I have been told by several dealers that it no longer occurs. well then there is something else wrong then. Starting the day for about 15 miles the front end shakes-sometimes violently. after 15 miles or so then things are ok. the dealer cannot reproduce the problem. he is 25 miles away.. i have 30 thousand miles on the tires-they are original..need an answer-really don't weant to buy new tires..my car is a 2012 Hyundai santé fe
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My boyfriend and I took a trip up to Mount Hood from Portland, Ore. When we got to the campsite we unpacked, had campfire, beer and relaxing lakeside walk. The evening was warm and balmy. The next morning when we were headed down the mountain we started up the car and it shook so violently from the front right side my boyfriend and I bailed out of the car almost in James Bond panic. We looked under the hood and found nothing (expecting a squirrel).
We waited about 20 minutes and then restarted the car having no access to the greater world (no reception). The second time nothing happened. We coasted down the mountain most of the way. I then took the car back to the Broadway Toyota and they had no idea what had happened. Mind you I took her in for 5,000 check up 5 days before going up the mountain. I am wondering if it could be gas related? Altitude related? No check engine light or anything.
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I've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
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I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
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2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
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I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
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This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
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My accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
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My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
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