Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Transmission Sometimes Downshift From OD To 3rd Gear And Stay There
Mar 17, 2011
I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6. This car is mostly driven by my daughter so I'm translating the symptoms as she has described them to me. The issue appears to be this - when driving at highway speeds the car will sometimes downshift from OD to 3rd gear and stay there. When the problem first started, she would pull off the highway, turn off the car and then restart it - this would appear to "fix" things temporarily, however, as time went on, it would work up to (and including) 3rd gear and not go into OD after a restart.
I've reviewed the various threads on this site describing the 4th gear problem prevalent in the Accent, but in each case that was posted, there was a check-engine-light or at least some diagnostic codes stored that one could refer to - I've scanned this car every time she's been home and there are no DTC's. Should I assume that this is the standard "4th gear" issue and take the pan off for investigation or could this be some other issue such as the speed sensor causing the transmission to limit itself to a max of 3rd gear?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL the reverse gear went out but all the forward gears work. Ive been told that I need a new transmission. I found a great deal on a transmission from a 2007 Hyundai Accent. Will this transmission work in my car?
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
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I recently bought my new car through a family friend.2000 Hyundai accent auto owned by a 90yr old grandpa since new with only 45k on the clock. im used to driving a manual so I don't know if its just me not used to it but when I slow for a corner to say 15-20km/hr and accelerate out the transmission remains in 3rd gear unless I give it a really good prod then it changes to 2nd or 1st. the acceleration when It does this and stays in 3rd is ok but I just wonder if its normal or is it just burning out the torque converter. also im only getting about 380-400kms out of a tank when driving the same route my old 96 pulsar used to get 550kms from the same fuel. is this normal I would have thought this new car to be using if anything a little less.
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I am having a issue that my transmission is popping out of 4th gear on my Accent, particularly on inclines. Have had the transmission (gear) oil checked and filled (was low) and thought that may have been the issue. Got it back from the mechanic and less than an hour later is popped out of 4th 2 times in a 5 minute period. It has only popped out of 4th gear, has not happened from any other gear. I have no check engine light or any other 'idiot' lights that come on when it happens. (Other than replacing the clutch...which I hoping I don't have to do ) cause that's a trip to the mechanic again...
2000 Hyundai Accent
1.5L 5 speed manual
240k miles
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have had this car for 2 years with out any problems whats so ever. Drove home from work today parked in drive went to leave again and transmission is stuck in first will not shift.
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So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 120,000 miles on it. Up until a few months ago, its been a great little car. The transmission started acting funny by shifting irregularly and then getting stuck in 3rd gear occasionally. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the tranny is shot. The estimate for the repair is $2000.00.
I just can't see putting that much money into this car. It needs Struts, Shocks and a timing belt. Basically what it needs is what its worth if it were running well.
How hard it is to replace the transmission in this car? I have the 1.6L DOHC with the Automatic transmission.
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I just bought a 2001 Accent, very well taken care of. It is the 1.6, automatic, 148,000 miles. Just before I bought it, the owners put new tires on, replaced the plugs/wires/belts/timing belt/all fluids/head gasket. I did a search on this topic and saw a lot of things, but nothing definitive.
I've noticed that when at a stop (in gear) the car shakes a good amount, and with the A/C on it's significantly worse. There is no check-engine light, and the car seems to run and shift very well. I'm not used to small cars with small engines, so I don't know if it's normal or not.
I did look at the motor mounts (front and passenger side) and from what I can tell just taking a peek, they don't look bad, but again it was just a peek. The mounts don't look like they've ever been changed, but then again the whole car looks brand new, the owners took really good care of it (the inside looks like it's never been ridden in).
I do also have noise coming from the speedometer, that goes away temporarily when the back of the cable/speedo is lubed and then comes back, but my first concern is the shaking.
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I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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I have a 2001 Accent with a auto-transmission. The engine is a 1.6 and the car has about 100,000 miles on it. I had it since about 5 years with about 48,000 miles.
While driving cross country a couple years the car developed a whining noise at about 25 mph. As speed is increased, the whining became louder. I have driven it like this ever since, moderately, never pushing it. Starting a couple months ago, the noise has become louder at 40 to 45 mph and there is considerable vibration.
I know the tranny in this car is known for many different problems. I'm just wonder what the thoughts are of others more familiar with this transmission as to what could be the issues ( a certain bearing going bad between gears?, maybe not a tranny issues ...just random ideas on my part ).
BTW, I have never had an error code develop for this transmission.
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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2001 Accent, 1.5L Automatic with OD, 263,000 km
Transmission goes into Fail Safe Mode but the CEL does not light up and code reader shows no codes. Shifts fine in town,1-2-3-4...4-3-2-1, but on highway when going up inclines (steep), transmission downshifts from Overdrive into 3rd,as i press the accelerator it will downshift into 2nd (as normal), until i reach the top of the incline (3500-4000 rpm) but then as the car levels out on the highway, it will shift back and forth between overdrive and 3rd, (jerky shifting) then finally goes into Fail safe mode, 3000 rpm at 80-90 km/h. Once I shut the car off for a few minutes, the transmission is fine and shifts normally. Fluid levels are good. Why the CEL is not giving code?
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
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