Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - RPM Does Not Go Over 3000
Nov 5, 2011
Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
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I have a 2008 Accent 1.6L automatic that is running very rough when it accelerates. First of all there was some engine check light, I got the codes and it was a Cylinder misfire. Then I checked the following:
1.- Spark plugs (replaced them same NGK but I didn't gaped them, same result)
2.- Fuel injectors (removed them, cleaned them and installed in different order, same result)
3.- IGN coils (measure resistance, swap them in different places, same result)
4.- Checked most of the sensors including TPS, Crankshaft PS, MAF, Camshaft PS and nothing.
5.- I checked for any type of vacuum leak and I couldn't find one
After all that troubleshooting I cleaned the codes, started the car again and I have the same problem with no check engine lights on except that sometimes I would get a "running rich" code.
I also noticed that the air intake is LOUD like a performance air intake, is that something normal on the accent? (I checked the air filter and its not clogged FYI). I could only think of:
Gap spark plugs to .035
check timing belt
check fuel filter (I don't think so)
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When I start the car and its cold outside the car is shaking like a leaf for about 1 minute and when I arrive at 3000rpm there is like a vibration in the steering and in the pedals.
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I recently got a car, but for some reason I just have this small issue.
My tail lights or brake lights stay on, and I can't seem to have them go off. I checked the switches for the lights, all of them work, but the back lights will not go off.
It's a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 door.
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I've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
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I just had lots of work done on my car, and since then the Hyundai radio (HM5064) is not working. I thought I just needed to put the radio code in again, but when I went to do that today, all the LEDS are showing for the stations, time, Cd etc.There is just no sound.
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
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I have had the keys recoded 9 days ago and two days ago they started playing up again, today I phoned the mob I paid $150 to recode my keys and they're going to look at it again (for a small fee) despite it their work being faulty, is there anything else that could be causing this? It will sometimes take 20+ turns of my key before it registers.
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What happened was, the car was not starting (its a manual, so I can push start). I replaced battery but accidentally put it in with the neg connected to pos post and pos. connected to negative.
The car was off when i did it so as far as i know I only blew a couple fuses. So I replaced the fuses and now the car is idling really high. So I cleaned the throttle body, still idling high.
Now, the car wont start unless pushed and I have no ac/heat (the fan has no power).
I have checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have also tested the Throttle Position Sensor, it is fine.
Could it be the diodes, relays???
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I have also owned a 2001 hyundai accent for almost 6 years now. This is the vehicle I drive to and from work. Today I was pulling off the on ramp onto the interstate and when I shifted to fifth-year it took for a few seconds and then all of a sudden I had absolutely no pull in 5th gear. There was a small pop sound but I can't be too sure exactly what it sounded like. And there is a really bad rattle from the tranny whenever the car is running 2000 RPM in fifth gear any higher than that then there's no noise at all and no pull. The RPMs just go up as if you're revving the car in neutral. I just wanted to know if that pretty much tells me that fifth gear is gone and I need to replace the transmission or have it rebuilt.
My other question is I've been looking up on the Internet to find a replacement transmission and so far I found out that for the 1.6 L if my car was made after March 8, 2001 that it requires a different transmission. But my car was built in September 2000 and I was wondering if the manual transmission was the same on the 1.5 L and the 1.6 L.
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2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
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I'm trying to locate the MAF sensor on my 2001 LC accent. I can see the air cleaner box, the tube which T's off to the surge tank, and then it goes straight into the throttle body. On the hmaservice website, it shows a MAF sensor between the air cleaner box and the surge tank (or "resonator"). I don't have that! There's concertina tube going straight from the throttle body to the air cleaner box (with T off). Am I just missing a part?? There don't *seem* to be any unused harness connectors lying idly around the place!
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I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.
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I just bought a 2001 Accent, very well taken care of. It is the 1.6, automatic, 148,000 miles. Just before I bought it, the owners put new tires on, replaced the plugs/wires/belts/timing belt/all fluids/head gasket. I did a search on this topic and saw a lot of things, but nothing definitive.
I've noticed that when at a stop (in gear) the car shakes a good amount, and with the A/C on it's significantly worse. There is no check-engine light, and the car seems to run and shift very well. I'm not used to small cars with small engines, so I don't know if it's normal or not.
I did look at the motor mounts (front and passenger side) and from what I can tell just taking a peek, they don't look bad, but again it was just a peek. The mounts don't look like they've ever been changed, but then again the whole car looks brand new, the owners took really good care of it (the inside looks like it's never been ridden in).
I do also have noise coming from the speedometer, that goes away temporarily when the back of the cable/speedo is lubed and then comes back, but my first concern is the shaking.
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A few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
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This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
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What is the easiest way to empty the gas tank in an '01 Accent GS 1.6 auto without dropping the tank? The gas in the Accent tank is doing no good if I can't drive it, so I wanted to drain it and put it in my Camry. I was thinking of pulling the fuel pump and siphoning from there?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL the reverse gear went out but all the forward gears work. Ive been told that I need a new transmission. I found a great deal on a transmission from a 2007 Hyundai Accent. Will this transmission work in my car?
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