Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Intermittent Central Door Locking Failure
Oct 7, 2011
I have an accent 2001 saloon which I bought a few months back. Turned out to be a real bargain but the door locking feature is really irritating. It will work 2-3 times in a row then stop for the rest of the day. The next day it works first thing but may not work again for several hours. Then 2-3 times in a row .. yeah you guessed it - the dreaded intermittent fault.
Now, the door handle inside the door has broken (plastic piece has snapped) so I am fitting a new one. Thought it might be a good idea, while I am at it, to have a look inside the door. I took out the whole door lock mechanism - see photo 1. Having found I could get it out, I put it back pending a bit of advice.
I presume that there is some sort of electric-powered actuator or solenoid or whatever, that locks all the doors from the drivers side. Is the piece I am talking about, the close up in photo 2?
If so, (or not) what is the likely fault here, and what can I do about it? I have put some WD 40 spray into the locks and eased them a bit. Otherwise not sure what to change/replace.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
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I have a sante fe which has problems (suspect multiple) with central locking , intermittently locking itself - very annoying - even driving down the road.
Drivers door controls for central locking unlock button does not unlock the doors - button just doesn't do anything. Lock button works fine. In addition window controls on drivers door dont work - only control that works is the one for the drivers door.
Final piece of the puzzle - the red light in the drivers door does not work either nor does the drivers door button panels light up. Starting to wonder is there a fuse or quirky power supply problem somewhere.
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Every time car is locked, a very loud buzz comes from the nearside front door. I have had the problem for over a year - the locking still works, but clearly something is wrong.
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Every VW I've owned has incorporated a central locking feature (i.e. - You hold the key in the off position, and it closes the windows and sunroof). Does our car not have that option? I though I heard somewhere that if you hold the alarm set button in the key fob that it'll close everytihgn, but that doesn't work.
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I was wondering if it's possible to get my windows to all close when I press my central locking on my Passat? It's a 2001 B5.5 model with front and rear electric windows. Is it possible and if so how?
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I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
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I am trying to set my locking system so that one touch on the remote (lock or unlock) will control both doors and the hatch, instead of having selective unlocking; I can't find this in the MFD menus, and I can't seem to access Controller 46 through VCDS, or anywhere else I'd expect to find that function. but where to change this setting?
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I'm having some problems with my tailgate (boot) handle. At the moment the boot 'intermittently' works with the central locking. If it doesn't unlock then I have to use the keyfob to open/close a few times before the handle opens the boot. Fortunately it works every time with the key. I must stress that I've never used the key in the boot. The boot lock is set to work with the opening/closing of the central locking. So this problem is NOT user error.
I have posted some pictures of the problem I've now seen with the mechanism. Ok so in the above picture, you can see that I've put a black arrow pointing at the 'latch' in it's correct position.
When you operate the central locking via the keyfob (or inside the car), it pushes the electrical popper (to the left) which rotates the mechanism CLOCKWISE, and in doing so, it pushes the LATCH across so that it can connect with the boot handle
In the following picture, you can see how the 'LATCH' isn't moving across to the position in the first pic. This is why my boot can't open with the central locking.
I must make clear that the electric popper is doing the job as it should. There is nothing wrong with it's function. The problem is the latch is not rotating (clockwise) into it's correct position. It can be moved by hand easily.
The problem could be solved by attaching a spring to the latch, so it pulls downwards. But I cannot understand why or what has stopped it from working as it should. The latch moves fine if you use the key in the lock, so at the moment, the only way to make it open is either open/close the central locking 10times, or use the car key.......
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My friend's 2012 Elantra's driver's door lock has started acting up intermittently. Sometimes the door locks, sometimes it doesn't. It won't do it on command so it can't be taken to the dealer to be looked at. Has this problem been cropping up on the 2012 models? He has had it for almost 2 years and has about 22000 miles.
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My 2005 Prius has today developed a fault, the central locking won't open or close with either of the remote key fobs. I allowed for a strange coincidence that the batteries in both fobs could die at the very same time and replaced one, still not working. The mini-key in the fob will open/close the central locking (all doors plus rear hatch). But of course the alarm would sound as soon as I opened the door, inserting the fob into the "ignition" socket and starting the car silenced the alarm after about 30 seconds, but the remote fobs still won't operate the central locking or activate the alarm.
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Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
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I have been having problems on and off with my central locking for a while now with my 05' Toyota Camry Altise. 95% of the time it works perfectly, however occasionally the central locking will refuse to lock the doors, chirping at me twice as if a door is open. I know that all of the door switches are working fine so this isn't the cause of the problem.
I believe it may have something to do with the fact that I had to replace my driver side door a while ago, and that now the actuator may not be working properly or misaligned and jamming. What should I be looking for to make sure this doesn't occur? I thought it all went back in perfectly. Interestingly I can get around the problem by turning the ignition on and off and trying again.
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I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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I have a 08 Accent Hatchback. The trunk door knob(the black plastic hinge thing which you pull to open the trunk, not sure if I call it right) does not reset. I mean after pulling it to open the trunk, it's stuck instead of going back. I need to press it to original position, so the trunk door can be locked. I can see a rusty spring behind the black piece of plastic. Not sure where is the problem(maybe the spring?). How can I fix it.
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So, I had heard this was happening frequently and now my navigation screen has stopped responding to touch inputs.
It looks like my Lexus platinum extended warranty has paid it's self off!
For those that have had the entire central control module replaced by Lexus with (I assume a refurbished/manufactured) one, have they held up? Are the repaired units anymore robust than the originals?
My car is an 2008, has the weak connections to the touch screen been addressed in the later vehicle builds?
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
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Just got the girlfriend a 2002 Santa Fe and the front passenger door locking is a bit random! Sometimes it unlocks and unlocks ok from the key in the drivers door or the lock/unlock buttons, other times it half locks / unlocks (the lock button on the door panel half moves!) and other times it just ignores me all together! The cabling and cable boot from the body to the door seems in good condition (my audi A4 had that problem and you really dont wanna know about the wiring nightmare i had to fix that!!! bloody Germans!!). My feeling is that its a worn actuator.
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I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
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