I have had the keys recoded 9 days ago and two days ago they started playing up again, today I phoned the mob I paid $150 to recode my keys and they're going to look at it again (for a small fee) despite it their work being faulty, is there anything else that could be causing this? It will sometimes take 20+ turns of my key before it registers.
View 7 Replies2004 Hyundai Accent
- Car won't start ...
- Remote key unlocks the car fine
- When put the key in the ignition and turn 'on' the little key indicator on the cluster doesn't come on.
- Left overnight and tried again in the morning, key indicator come on and then disappeared and wasn't able to start car.
- Key indicator now won't come on.
I spoke to mechanic and he said replace the immobilizer control module and reprogram key..
Anyway my issue is, my car is turning over but wont start. I notice that it will only start when the yellow immobilizer light comes on and then goes off.
If I try to start when there is no immobilizer light it wont fire up.
I have to take out the key and wait 20 secs. When I turn back on the ignition and I see the yellow immobilizer light, I know it will start?? The immobilizer light goes out when the car starts. Whats up or should I continue what I'm doing...
my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
View 1 RepliesMy buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Prius and my wife has a 2001 Highlander. I only have 1 master key remaining for the Prius, and both cars use the same transponder type. I had a plain (metal, no transponder) copy made for the Prius, and it turns all the locks just fine. I also followed the master key programming steps with the metal non-transponder key in the ignition, but holding the Highlander key in close proximity to the ignition. It worked! If I have the highlander key on the keychain next to the metal spare Prius key, the Prius will start. The Highlander key is now a 'superkey,' it will start the Highlander, and it will also pacify the Prius immobilizer.
But this is not 100%; if it doesn't sit right on the keychain, I sometimes have to hold the Highlander key a little closer to the ignition to get it to recognize. I
I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
After changing the battery on my key fob my immobilizer now wont work.The key fob flashes twice telling us its disarmed but it wont re-arm itself.Now we have followed a coupe of online procedures regarding resetting the transmitter box.We did this and still it wont work.Central locking is working from key and car starting from key,But key fob jsu not syncing up!!
View 1 RepliesI have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI recently got a car, but for some reason I just have this small issue.
My tail lights or brake lights stay on, and I can't seem to have them go off. I checked the switches for the lights, all of them work, but the back lights will not go off.
It's a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 door.
I've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
I just had lots of work done on my car, and since then the Hyundai radio (HM5064) is not working. I thought I just needed to put the radio code in again, but when I went to do that today, all the LEDS are showing for the stations, time, Cd etc.There is just no sound.
View 5 RepliesI took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
View 2 RepliesI have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
View 3 RepliesWhat happened was, the car was not starting (its a manual, so I can push start). I replaced battery but accidentally put it in with the neg connected to pos post and pos. connected to negative.
The car was off when i did it so as far as i know I only blew a couple fuses. So I replaced the fuses and now the car is idling really high. So I cleaned the throttle body, still idling high.
Now, the car wont start unless pushed and I have no ac/heat (the fan has no power).
I have checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have also tested the Throttle Position Sensor, it is fine.
Could it be the diodes, relays???
I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
View 21 RepliesI have also owned a 2001 hyundai accent for almost 6 years now. This is the vehicle I drive to and from work. Today I was pulling off the on ramp onto the interstate and when I shifted to fifth-year it took for a few seconds and then all of a sudden I had absolutely no pull in 5th gear. There was a small pop sound but I can't be too sure exactly what it sounded like. And there is a really bad rattle from the tranny whenever the car is running 2000 RPM in fifth gear any higher than that then there's no noise at all and no pull. The RPMs just go up as if you're revving the car in neutral. I just wanted to know if that pretty much tells me that fifth gear is gone and I need to replace the transmission or have it rebuilt.
My other question is I've been looking up on the Internet to find a replacement transmission and so far I found out that for the 1.6 L if my car was made after March 8, 2001 that it requires a different transmission. But my car was built in September 2000 and I was wondering if the manual transmission was the same on the 1.5 L and the 1.6 L.
2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to locate the MAF sensor on my 2001 LC accent. I can see the air cleaner box, the tube which T's off to the surge tank, and then it goes straight into the throttle body. On the hmaservice website, it shows a MAF sensor between the air cleaner box and the surge tank (or "resonator"). I don't have that! There's concertina tube going straight from the throttle body to the air cleaner box (with T off). Am I just missing a part?? There don't *seem* to be any unused harness connectors lying idly around the place!
View 2 Replies I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.