Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 GS Won't Start / Engine Cranks Fine But Doesn't Fire
Jun 28, 2014
My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
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About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
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I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
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My hyundai accent 2004 standard doesn't start. The engine crank, but there's no fire. I change the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Also change my timing belt, my alternator, my starter, my control box and my computer. But if I pull the car with my pickup, it runs. While the engine is running, the computer doesn't give me any diagnostic code. I also check my fuse, relay,... Even jump start the starter to check if it was the switch.
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I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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Went to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
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I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
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My daughter has a 03 Accent that within the past week will not start at certain times. Some times it will some times it wont. It always cranks but doesn't catch. If she tries to start the car and it cranks, but doesn't catch, if you wait 15 -20 minutes, or longer, it will turn over and run fine. We are thinking crank position sensor or possibly fuel pump...
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking... This thing has 253k on it...
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I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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My problem is with a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Once a year I have to replace the battery after the first cold snap due to low cranking amps. I can simply hook up a battery charger and it will crank and fire. My second problem is most likely related. When I replace the battery it will kick off like a brand new car with no hesitation. After a few starts it takes 5-15 seconds for the engine to fire while the engine cranks normally, and that's how it operates all year. After having this problem again this year (I've owned it 4 years) I've realized the underlying problem is not the battery. All the connections are good, and it has a good ground. No lights or warnings, and when tested with a handheld scanner there are no error codes.
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Friends truck, 06 with 135k. Problem he's having is, truck cranks over fine but doesn't fire, if he kick starts it, it fires right up. Haven't had the chance to put my AE on it, figured I throw it out there.
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