Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 GL Won't Turn Over / Buzzing Noise Coming From Beside Cold Air Intake
Oct 9, 2014
I have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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When the car is running, the noise is not there OR it is drowned out by the engine, but when you turn the key and run on battery, you hear a buzzing and it sounds like it is coming from the engine, it stays until you turn the engine on or turn the key back off.
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Recently I've had problems with my DRL (Day time Running Lights) Control Module. When I start the car, the DRL starts to make a loud buzzing sound. When I turn on my High Beams, it stops making the noise. It sounds like there's a relay that Isn't working like its supposed to be. So, I've thought of replacing it, but I`m not sure if its the DRL that's defective or just a wiring problem...
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I've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
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I just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
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I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
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I am having a strange issue with this vehicle that the dealership can't figure out but it doesn't surprise since here they are a bunch of idiots there anyways....well here it goes....when i start the vehicle there is a fairly loud "buzzing" noise coming from the drl module mounted on the front right side fender, the module feels like the relay inside is clicking extremely fast but not actually staying on, the drl's do not come on however the high beam indicator on the dash is illuminated. This will go away when i turn on the low beams, but i still have no high beams. There is a slight flicker within all the interior lights and headlights which leads me to believe there is a ground issue. I am unable to obtain any schematics for this part of the electrical system to be able to back probe and try to isolate the issue.... The vehicle seems to be fine as long as you turn the low beams on as soon as you start it other then the slight flicker in the lighting inside and out.....
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I have a 2005 F-150 supercrew 4.6L with appx 127,000 miles on it. Back in December i took the family to a drive in movie and left the ignition turned to the on position. I jumped the battery and drove a few miles home. The next morning when i tried to start the truck it would not turn over. There was a buzzing noise coming from the fuel pump but not enough juice to turn the truck over. This has happened a few times in the last couple of months but will jump and run fine for weeks at a time. I've taken a 2500 mile round trip to Texas with no issues. I took a 200 mile trip this past weekend and now it will not start. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump relay? I went to the parts store and bought a relay but it's not the same size as the one in my Haynes Manual. The part from the store is the same size as the bigger relays in the kick panel fuse box but does not match any of the plugs. According to my manual the fuel pump relay should be a smaller relay.
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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I have a 2001 accent 5-spd. I was on my way to work and I was making a u-turn when the car suddenly died. I tried to start it back up but it didn't even sound like it was turning over. I tried to bump start it or do a rolling start and nothing. I had to go to work. When I returned to it 8 hours later I again tried to start it and nothing. When I turn the key it makes a "whirring" or "humming" noise, kind of like a vacuum noise. When I had someone else try to turn it, I noticed the belt was turning, but the engine wouldn't crank or make any attempt to turn over. Just the belt was spinning and no engine crank. What could this be?? Could it be the crank position sensor?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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2001 F-350, 7.3L,
Has done this off & on for a few years and am tired of it! Noise is kind of a buzzing that seems to come from the flasher/turn signal relay. It stops buzzing when you turn on a turn signal, activate the flashers, or lift up on the shifter arm(?). Had to drive home yesterday with the flashers on! So I see from researching that it may actually be the multi-funtion switch on the steering column. So I removed that, cleaned up all the contacts, and put it back on and the buzzing did not go away.
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I have a 2001 Accent with 108,000 miles, 60000 less on the engine. It has become very difficult to turn the wheel, especially when still. It eases up some when the car is moving. The fluid was a little low so added some but still hard to turn when full. Is the pump gone or is it something else?
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A few months ago my automatic 2000 hyundai accent GL was having problems reversing. Some times it would, sometimes it would move a few feet then fall out of gear and stop, sometimes it would not move at all.
The reversing problem fixed itself about a month ago.
Recently i started having problems accelerating, it was noticeably slower to get to speed and had problems upshifting.
Today, it started to make a buzzing when in Drive, while decelerating after getting to speed. This buzz is nonexistent in neutral, 2nd, or low gear.
Here is a video of the sound it is making, with captions to explain what i am doing... 2000 accent transmission problem - YouTube
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The other day I replace the front brake pads and rotors on my daughter's '03 Accent. On the test drive I noticed a scraping noise coming from the driver's side. Got it home and didn't see anything obvious, but for fun I removed the pads and swapped the shims around. It was better, and afterwards I put the new brakes through a few heat cycles. The scraping noise became less noticeable so I figured she should just drive it for a few days. Well today I'm informed that the noise is "really bad".
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
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I have a 2001 1.6 DOHC Accent the engine has been making a lot noise coming form just the back of the head it kinda sounds like a diesel. I pulled the valve cover off and turned the engine over by hand. I noticed that cam chain has a good amount of slack in it. Is there a tensioner to take slack out of the chain? If so can I adjust it? If not how do I replace the chain?
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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Noise sounds like its coming from driver's side. It's not terrible until you hit 30-40km/h, after that its quite loud. No whistling sounds, which i was told to listen for if it were a wheel bearing (although I ma not convinced is the only sound a warn bearing makes).
The sound sometimes goes away when I am on a bend turning left (taking the weight off the drivers side wheel).
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So I had all of my belts changed including timing belt and tensioner pulley as well as an oil change. After, I noticed a weird pulsating grinding/wining noise coming from the engine bay. It only can be heard once the car is warmed up. (It is much louder in real life.).
Car Noise - YouTube
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