Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Distant Drop In Power Suddenly
Apr 14, 2012
Basically I was driving along yesterday, no issues at all. about 3/4 of the way to my destination the car all of a sudden had a distant drop in power, a big vibration ran through the whole car at most RPM's and the engine/exhaust note is now best described as 'the Jetson's flying car'....although not that high pitched.
When I got to my destination, I pulled up to supercheap auto, checked the oil and there was a tiny bit at the bottom of the dipstick, so I topped it up to full but the issue still exists. After I popped the bonnet I also noticed a strong 'burning rubber' smell, but all the pulley's looked to be operational (could be wrong, didn't have a torch on me).
Got home, replaced the spark plugs as I thought a cylinder may have been missing, the first cylinder plug was black and oily, but the rest looked normal. So swapped them all out and the problem still exists, although not as severe.
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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I have a 2001 Acura MDX automatic transmission that at least once a day when driving around town, will suddenly loose power, RPM's seem to be stuck at 2000, and then surge up to 5000 with no forward motion. When I try to accelerate again, the car "stumbles" forward until the RPM's settle back down to between 1-3 and the car drives normal. This is creeping me out...any thoughts? Valves have been adjusted.
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It just doesn't end lately. I've noticed over the last several months, when it rains and I start the engine I would hear an underhood squealing noise. Like a belt or pulley. After the engine warmed up a bit, and the engine bay dried out, the squeal would go away. After a rain about a month back, I opened the hood to listen but wasn't able to locate the exact source of the squeal. Never gave it any more thought.....until this evening. I was driving in our New England Nor'easter in 4 whl drive mode with the wipers on HI, the defroster and blower on HI, and the headlamps and dash lights illuminated, when suddenly the dash lights dimmed about 40%, the blower slowed down about the same, and the wiper speed dropped as well from HI to about low speed. This was shortly followed by an underhood squeal which sounded a lot like the one I've experienced recently. After about 20 secs, the squeal would disappear and the power would quickly return to all accessories! This happened about 4 or 5 times and I returned home and parked it as I did not want to be stranded during the blizzard with a dead truck. The battery voltage gauge needle on the dash never seemed to move so I'm a bit stumped.
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I've got an 01 Accent and recently the thing won't start. It's acting as if the battery is dead when I turn the key despite having power to the rest of the car.
It doesn't even turn over but you can hear the gas pump kick in. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch that's faulty but I'd like to see what everybody here has to say before I start taking the column apart.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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2004 accent manual shift. car drives well, but when i step on the gas, it sudenly pulls to left. when i release gas, it goes back to straight driving. motor mount??? anything else come to mind??
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I have a 2001 accent 5-spd. I was on my way to work and I was making a u-turn when the car suddenly died. I tried to start it back up but it didn't even sound like it was turning over. I tried to bump start it or do a rolling start and nothing. I had to go to work. When I returned to it 8 hours later I again tried to start it and nothing. When I turn the key it makes a "whirring" or "humming" noise, kind of like a vacuum noise. When I had someone else try to turn it, I noticed the belt was turning, but the engine wouldn't crank or make any attempt to turn over. Just the belt was spinning and no engine crank. What could this be?? Could it be the crank position sensor?
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2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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I have had the Santa Fe back and forth to the garage no power. We where driving it and all a sudden dropped power can't rev motor over 3000 rpm. Garage said they fixed it with dry gas and more gasoline b/c it was "low" between 1/4 and empty?
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1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
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I have a 2003 Passat and the engine temperature gauge will read 190 normally and then suddenly drop to almost zero, stay there for a while then head back up.
I purchased a temp sensor to replace the old but for the life of me I can seem to locate it. I know it's in the back or rear of the engine somewhere.
BTW, the car has the 1.8 engine.
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Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
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My wife started the 2000 Toyota Sienna yesterday morning (temp about 30 degrees Fahrenheit), warmed the engine for about 30 seconds and drove a block to the stop sign. As she made a left hand turn she was in sudden shock to feel that she had no power steering. She still was able to turn and brought the car to a stop. At that point the power steering returned and she continued her mile journey and eventual return without a problem. The power steering fluid reservoir was full.
There was no puddle underneath the car. The serpentine belt was tensioned. I drove the car to the Toyota dealer and presented the problem to a front desk technician. At first he said it could be the power steering pump or rack and pinion steering assembly. When I told him that the power steering was back after she made the return he said he'd never heard of that situation. Further, he said unless the problem was showing itself when we brought the vehicle in a repairman wouldn't be able to diagnose the situation.
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the wife's '01 Excursion has developed a new idling quirk. While sitting, it will briefly drop rpm's. You can hear it, and see it on the tach gauge. No other noises or problems, except for the brief drop in rpm's.
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
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I ran out and test drove a new to me 2001 F350 7.3L tonight. Everything seemed good, until I got back from the test drive. I pulled in and was sitting there with it idling. It seemed to idle fine, then a very small miss and very small shimmy then idle fine again; then another small miss and another shimmy. It continued like clockwork. Every time it seemed to miss and shimmy, the RPM would drop just a little, but not much. Does an ICP sensor sound like the problem, or maybe something more serious? 2001 F350 7.3L with 235,733 miles new trans, turbo replaced at 150,000 something miles. No blow by. Idled fine before driving, also drove fine. It doesn't seem to surge when idling, just kind stalls and shimmys for a split second then idles fine for a few seconds.
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I recently got a car, but for some reason I just have this small issue.
My tail lights or brake lights stay on, and I can't seem to have them go off. I checked the switches for the lights, all of them work, but the back lights will not go off.
It's a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 door.
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I just had lots of work done on my car, and since then the Hyundai radio (HM5064) is not working. I thought I just needed to put the radio code in again, but when I went to do that today, all the LEDS are showing for the stations, time, Cd etc.There is just no sound.
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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