Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Code P0121 TPS Error
Nov 20, 2011
2001 1.5L 5-speed Accent
I did a search on this problem and found several people posted the same P0121 code. Strangely many people wrote that replacing TPS did NOT fix it. The code came back in 30 miles or so. Most of them didn't follow up what finally fixed it and only 2 people did by saying they got the code cleared by fixing/replacing:
1. Leak in the intake manifold, bad plug wires, etc.
2. New Head & ECM.
Is there any known fix for the P0121 on Accent 1.5L other than above?
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My MIL is on!!!! I went to Autozone, they told me the error code is P0121. The car is running funny, with uneven idle, and bucking/not shifting.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
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Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
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I drive hyundai accent 1.5l sohc.. Recently i was on my bots on turbo project.. The process when smoothly until i suddenly realized that my car was only move on 3rd gear.. then i took off my turbo out afraid of over boosting and straight go for diagnostic.. And error p0755 comes out.. So how to troubleshoot this problem..
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
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This is the infamous error code many Accent owners might have experienced it. The code refers to "Too lean intake system". People try to replace all kinds of parts like ECM, MAF, O2 Sensor, TPS, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, etc. according to my research. I just bought a 2001 Accent and the P2188 light came on. I wrote an email to Hyundai Corp. Asking what would be the most likely part that will cause the (P2188) check engine light to come on.
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2009 Accent, 1.6L 154,xxx Cylinder two misfire. Engine was rebuilt due to timing belt. Twice. Second time I did it. Replaced plugs, coil packs, all gaskets, (everything new in the head) did a smoke test, compression test 180 psi across all four, used a noid light for coil packs (good) did it at the injectors 1,3,4 did good, but 2 came on then went off. Check resistance and it shows good, replaced injector anyway and the connecter. Still doesn't work. Checked powers and grounds at the rail, good. Good solid voltage. I hooked up a scan tool and tried to shut injector 2 off, no change in RPM or vibration. Scan tool worked for 1,3,4. Used another PCM, still misfire in two. Even jumped a wire from PCM control and 15A inj fuse for the 12V constant (bypassed the harness) and still doesn't work. Also have knock sensor code, just two codes.
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I got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
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So I replaced my battery about 20k miles ago, so I know that's fine. I always throw a P0420, but I'm told that's fine too. So I was driving, and I lose power suddenly. The red triangle comes on, and I plug my scangauge II in, which tells me it's P0121, or the throttle body sensor. I reset the codes to make it home - my battery DID charge just fine on the way home, making it up to a 63.5 state of charge. Now when I start it, and press the gas, it tends to rev up, rev down, and repeat. I haven't gotten the red triangle again yet but I also haven't driven it since then.
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Recently bought a `01 Accent 5 speed.. First question . How do I tell if its the 1.5 or 1.6 ? That will really point me in a good start. Ha... Ok.. Check engine light is on and I found a paper in the glove box with some of the codes wrong with it.. The one I focused on was telling me the fuel system was to lean . blah blah blah... Dont remember the exact code as I felt that my research was good and I replaced the MAF sensor... Didnt clear the code...
Also it was sputtering quite a bit in all gears mainly at low rpms. I did change the fuel filter , checked plugs and wires etc.. Now I replaced the MAF sensor and it has not solved the problem.. Took it to have it rescanned and have been given codes p1127 and p0136 .. both seem to relate to the Bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor. question is I have saw the "upstream" sensor located right below the exhaust manifold but did not see a second sensor?
From what I have gathered sensor 1 does the most work, so I`m curious if these 2 sensors are interchangeable? Could I buy the downstream sensor and if that does not solve my problem , take it out on try it in the upstream sensor? Also do you really feel as though just changing that sensor will "cure" my sputtering issue? the car only has 88k on it and seems to be in good shape otherwise.. I really need this check engine light problem fixed so I can get inspection..
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I got a 2012 Hyundai Accent SE manual 112000 mostly highway miles. For a month now I am getting the MIL on and P2191 code (System too lean at higher load bank1) after erasing the code it appeared again in 3-4 days. I replaced air filter check all valves and vacuum in air flow, changed to premium gas. Pipe that connected to the valve from EVAP system looks not damaged and valve works as intended. While changing spark plugs I noticed that all of them were quite charred. I am thinking to replace both O2 up/down stream sensors. Which not OEM sensors would be the best match for my Accent?
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Not too terribly long ago I got assistance on identifying and fixing an engine misfire on my 2009 Accent. I assumed was directly connected has cropped up again - a P0497 Low Purge Flow error has come up on the car.
We recently replaced the purge flow valve, and everything seems to be running fine - there is no visible cause for the error, and I've even tried making sure I get the fuel cap as tight as possible.
The code is not popping up constantly - this is only the second time it's come up since the misfire was fixed(without obvious symptoms I always clear a code once just to make sure it wasn't a computer glitch), and the first time it popped up on it's own was the day after I fixed the misfire. Need to know what to check to find out what's wrong and, of course, how much priority I should place on fixing this issue.
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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Check engine light is on... Then about 2 mins into driving Emissions Workshop comes across the dash.. i Ran the code it says
P1176 Oxygen sensor correction limit attained (bank 1)
What exactly does that mean in other words. also what is bank 1? im not sure what oxygen sensor it is out of the 4 of them.
i have a 2000 30v 4motion.
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Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
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My sister was driving her 01 Prius and the engine shut off and all the dash lights came on. I was worried it was the hybrid battery since it is still original. I started the car and it started fine, drove home without any issues. Went to the store, everything seems normal. Read the codes and found P0121 and P3190, I just have a basic reader so I don't have any sub-codes or anything like that.
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My daughters 2000 explorer has a PO172 code, tune it up,Replaced filters plugs & wires and rear O2 sensors that were damaged. Has 65 psi on fuel rail. Can not find any vacuum leaks. Not sure maybe injectors are dirty.
Also I replaced MAF, now it idles, But it's a rough Idle,Gets worse in gear. She say's on cold start up she can smell a whiff of gas ..
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2001 vw cabrio 2.0 .. The car starts and stalls BUT only if you give it gas. I replaced the throttle body and did the throttle body alignment using vas-pc , no problems at idle but as soon as i give i gas it dies, and it seems to die quicker at higher temperatures. When it dies i get codes P0121 and P1570 i clear the code , do the alignment , and same thing happens over again. I also replaced distributor , crank sensor, maf sensor , spark plugs, wires , rotor, tried different pcm reprogrammed, no vacuum leaks, the only thing i can think of now is the ecm relay? but its missing so is it using the fuel pump relay ?
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I've checked the lines from the Purge Valve on the Passenger side of the Intake Manifold, Check OK
I've Checked that Valve OK
I've Replaced the Canister Close Valve
I've got the Gas Cap tight.
I've removed the rubber bushing holding the CCV to the Evap Canister, hoping to isolate the Filter and point the blame on it, no luck there!!
I'm thinking next is to drop the Tank and check over all the Goodies on top.... as much as I hate the thought of that, the two access holes under the seats, just don't allow access to enough of the tank!
any thing there that I could suspect, I see there's a check valve!
There's also the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor, which may be at fault.
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