Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Changed MAF Sensor Now Engine Stutters
Mar 10, 2011
I have a 01 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L, stick shift. My CEL came on and I had it read. Mechanic told me it was P1128 (Fuel Lean) or something like that. Looked it up on line and everything said to check for air leaks and then look at the MAF Sensor. I checked and saw no leaks. Took out MAF Sensor and cleaned it with MAF Cleaner. Disco'd battery to reset computer. CEL went out for maybe 30 minutes and then back on. Didn't do anything with it for about 4 months, now car stutters sometimes.
So, I finally broke down and bought MAF Sensor and replaced myself. Disco'd battery to reset computer. Started up and engine was not smooth at first(30 seconds) then smoothed up. But CEL still on. Drove home (25 minutes) and checked again this morning. CEL is off! Only problem is that the car stutters a little at acceleration. Smooth when at cruising RPM and speed. Just stutters a little at start of acceleration and when switching gears until at cruising speed. Is this going to go away? Is the computer just getting set up after changing MAF Sensor?
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I'm trying to locate the MAF sensor on my 2001 LC accent. I can see the air cleaner box, the tube which T's off to the surge tank, and then it goes straight into the throttle body. On the hmaservice website, it shows a MAF sensor between the air cleaner box and the surge tank (or "resonator"). I don't have that! There's concertina tube going straight from the throttle body to the air cleaner box (with T off). Am I just missing a part?? There don't *seem* to be any unused harness connectors lying idly around the place!
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My accent (2001, 1.6L, with 179k miles) has service engine soon light on. Brought it to autozone and they said the upstream O2 sensor needs to be replaced. I borrowed the socket to take out the O2 sensor. It's very difficult even with the tool, because the O2 sensor was stuck with a lot of rust. I used an extension bar to get it out finally, but now when i tried to put the new sensor in, I found the hole's thread is very loose. Tried very hard but can't get the new sensor in securely. It seems I had to replace the whole exhaust manifold. The manifold is very expensive(because it has a build in catalyst converter). I'm wondering is there a way to make the O2 sensor in secure without replacing the whole thing? if I had to replace the manifold then I probably will just get rid of this car.
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I went to emissions test my 2002 Accent, 1.5L 5spd, and failed because of a faulty engine coolant sensor. Problem is, I can't find it anywhere! Worse, I can't find anything online either. I have my second child on the way and need to sell the car and this is the only thing preventing me to sell. Is it worth it to replace myself or to take to a shop and have them do it.
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I have a 2000 Ford E350 Short Bus 7.3 It has abs in the rear diff. I have changed the sensor. I have connected my AE but get nothing at all from the sensor. My speedometer does work. My overdrive light flashes and the transmission does shift properly. I plan on looking for a bad ground. Can I test the wiring using a volt meter
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I have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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My 2001 accent 4dr will start up no problem when everything is cold, but once I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes and if i shut it off, it will start back up but then it stalls and wont start back up, or if i just let it run a little bit longer it also stalls, no problems with fuel pump or relay when it is cold it starts right up, but once it stalls it wont turn back on....the pump is getting power even when its hot so could it be a bad wire or should i test the coils when it gets hot or am i completely looking at the wrong thing?
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
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Where the knocking sensor is located on a 2005 Accent. I am in need of finding it so that i can wire a controller into the signal wire?
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trying to find the speed sensor on a 03 accent manual so I can fit cruise control
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The MIL light up and I got the P0501 Code. (Speed Sensor. I use a Scangauge II and the Speed is 0 KM/H at any speed. (was working before). But the in dash Speedometer work no problem. I look on the HMAservice web page and did not found where is located the Speed Sensor.
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About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2001 Accent GL 4dr 5spd from a friend of mine. A few days later, the CEL came on. I went to O'Reilly and got the code pulled, it was for a cam sensor input LOW. I replaced the sensor and was on my way.
Yesterday after starting the car for the first time for a few days (I wasn't driving because it needed a clutch), the light came on. Has it gone bad again or is something causing the signal to be low? Maybe a low output on the alternator or low battery? The interior lights dim slightly when the brake pedal is applied while the car is running.
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I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
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So my little car.....driving home from jersey (about an hour and a half) and within the last 2 miles I notice the car just shut off. Not any electronics just the motor. Pulled over and tried to start it an it just cranks prolly no fuel or spark. happened to have my obdII scanner with me. It says camshaft position sensor(po342). Only code in there. Sounds simple enough. Got a new one and put it in. Just cranks. Plugs and wires were done about 3 months ago and I drive about 40 miles a day 5 days a week. I did the timing belt last spring so I opened that back up to make sure the timing hadn't jumped for some stupid reason. It's perfect. Noticed now after doing all of that there is some (a little) oil in the throttle body. I know about blow by and don't think I should have that much at 113k but who knows.
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My 1.5L 2000 Hyundai accent is reading p0342 code.(cmp sensor circuit low Input). I have changed out the sensor from a parts car and it's still reading this code. I've read it could be timing or an issue with the starter wiring.
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My daughter spun her timing belt on her 1.5L accent. when she did, she bent the valve rods and all were replaced. The original code that was thrown was the one in the title. Ordered a new camshaft positioning sensor for the car. Looks a little different than factory. He installed it, and car is still pulling code. He accidentally threw away the original before confirmed that the problem was solved. Why the code is still pulling?? I can tell you this, I can clear the code, start the car and drive without code coming back on. As soon as I shut the vehicle off and restart, engine light comes on. Car runs fine. Had a complete valve job, new timing belt and water pump installed.
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Replaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
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I'm working on a family members car. We pulled out the old motor and put in a new one because the old one has rod knock. We're not getting ANY spark. Crank position sensor shows no resistance when cranking. The harness at the crank position sensor shows no voltage. The both coils measure 1.5ohms.
The only two bits of the harness that are in questionable locations are the grounds next to the ignition coil and the passenger side strut tower ground. I have the strut tower one to the closest bolt on the intake manifold and the coil pack grounds to the coil pack bracket.
The car has plenty of fuel and good cranking speed, just no spark. I verified using a timing light (no flash) and spark-plug short-to-ground. The old engine WAS running and all of the sensors on this one were swapped over from the running one. Also, the tach doesn't move when cranking.
Is there something that's commonly overlooked, or something that could be causing the issue searching showed it could be the crank position sensor, but like I said, I pulled the working one off the running engine.
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