Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Car Dies / Stalls If Fill Petrol Tank To Top
Jan 23, 2017
Hyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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My wife has a 2002 Accent with 117K miles on it. Fuel pump has never been replaced, but fuel filter and PCV valve changed about 5K miles ago.
The problem started when I added some BG44K fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank by way of a funnel. There was no discernable change in the car until my wife tried to fill up with gas...it kept clicking off. This has been going on for some time and it's pretty annoying.
So I do some research and learned that there could be charcoal pellets in the venting lines coming from the charcoal canister. I removed the charcoal canister from the car, and sure enough, there were a lot of little pellets in the hoses. I disconnected all the hoses and shook out all the pellets (not from the box, from the hoses) and connected everything back up. I went to the gas station and...nope, still clicking off every 2 seconds.
Then I removed the fuel filler neck from the car and inspected it. There were no restrictions in the main tube and no restrictions in the tube that runs up the main tube and loops back down the other side. [b]The blue/black check valve was a little clogged, so I blew it out with compressed air. I reinstalled it with the arrow pointing towards the charcoal box - meaning air and/or fuel can travel towards the canister only. Should the check valve be facing the other way? I assume it should, so gases can vent from the canister to the atmosphere - I don't want air/fuel going into the box, right?
I did find a restriction in one of the smaller hardlines that is connected to the fuel filler neck - it was more charcoal pellets. It was really clogged and I had a hard time removing them. At this point, there are no clogs, restrictions or charcoal pellets in any of the lines (including the charcoal canister), yet I still cannot properly fill the tank. Is the check valve now my only problem?
My wife told me today that the car "felt funny" and didn't "go when she stepped on the gas". Another symptom of the check valve?
I'm not entirely sure why adding fuel injector cleaner would have caused this problem.
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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When I fill the car with fuel, the check engine light will come on and stay on until I reach about 3/8 of a tank. Then it goes off until the next time I fuel. I have replaced the sending unit and gas cap to no avail. Any thoughts?
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What is the easiest way to empty the gas tank in an '01 Accent GS 1.6 auto without dropping the tank? The gas in the Accent tank is doing no good if I can't drive it, so I wanted to drain it and put it in my Camry. I was thinking of pulling the fuel pump and siphoning from there?
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I have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
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Like a lot of others, my 2000 Elantra will just barely take gas at the pump. So I've done the research, I think I understand the problem, but when I tried to find the replacement filter, there seem to be 4 different parts ranging from $8 to $180. Which part should I order and order first, or should I just replace them all?
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My 2001 1.5l works fine when cold however once it reaches temperature it will hiccup and then stall! It WILL NOT fire up until it gets cold again. Usually happens when we are coasting to a stop. I'm not a mechanic but can am mechanically inclined. I brought it to Autozone and had the computer codes sent (yes check engine lt was on) One code was a fuel lean code. Cannot recall the exact number. When it act up it sounds like there is either no fuel or no fire. I cleaned the mass air sensor and put fuel treatment in it and I replaced the fuel gas cap.
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My 2001 accent 4dr will start up no problem when everything is cold, but once I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes and if i shut it off, it will start back up but then it stalls and wont start back up, or if i just let it run a little bit longer it also stalls, no problems with fuel pump or relay when it is cold it starts right up, but once it stalls it wont turn back on....the pump is getting power even when its hot so could it be a bad wire or should i test the coils when it gets hot or am i completely looking at the wrong thing?
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2004 civic ex with over 300,000 miles
For last 5 months or so, I have to keep full tank of gas. If the tank is half, the car starts stalling, and the first sign of it is when I am taking a sharp right turn on highway exit. It's like the engine dies for a second or two and comes back when the right turn is over. If I keep driving and the tanks get lower, it will happen even without the right turn. I just fill up the tank and the problem is fixed.
Check engine light is on sometimes (but not always) with these codes P0171B and P0497, but I am not sure it's related.
There is sometime also a short delay in starting the car, irrelevant if the tank is full, (a second or two of extra cranking) but that might be a different issue too.
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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2K Metro has a hole in the gasoline tank fill tube, between the gas cap and tank. It doesn't leak only when putting gas in. Is this hard to change or patch? I just found a replacement fuel filler neck. Is this hard to change. Can you change it with gas in the tank if you're careful?
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At seemingly random times when I take my Elantra to the gas station it will only fill the tank about half way before clicking off. After doing some quick google searches I'm leaning towards something being wrong with CCV system. I read that over filling the tank can cause debris to clog the system and a few months back my father-in-law borrowed it he has a tendency to overfill the gas tank. But I've also read that there's an error code that tends to pop up with it and so far there's been none. Either way I'm not familiar with how the CCV and related systems work.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT. My gas gauge is showing full but the car is running out of gas. I try to fill the tank and I get the annoying click and after trying for a few, gas comes up the filler and overflow tube and makes a mess. At the same time, I was getting a P0449 code. I got an evap canister from the junkyard and that seems to have gone away.
Tried diagnosis but dropping the fuel tank to access the lines. When I jack the tank back up into position, you can hear gurgling sounds and as if the gas is coming up the fill tube. I also opened the access panel under the seat to see the pump assembly and when I removed the 8mm bolts, gas came pouring out. There was definitively gas in there. Checked the float on the pump assembly and it moved?
There is also something at the fuel neck at the top. Don't know what it is and if that could also be part of the problem.
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Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
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I had a new Fuel Pump put in the cheaper plastic one into my 2001 F250 5.4 with a 112,000 miles.
Problem I am having since getting it back is when filling the gas tank up it will shut the pump off at 3/4 tank. I then have to sit there playing the squeezing game to get more gas in. The vent line looks fine no kinks in it and the tank looks level so what could be the issue causing me this headache?
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2004 Accent - auto. - 100K miles
CEL for code P0304. I thought I had it solved but now it comes on after every fuel fill-up. Its happened at least 5 times or more. I know what the code means (ign. misfire #4 cyl.).
I read and checked what affects the code but this one has me baffled. I thought at first it is the evap. canister but the car takes a fuel fill-up without any trouble and it is not hard to pump it all in and does not give me the code. If I put a bottle of STP gas treatment in the tank it clears the code after about 40 miles driving but it doesn't explain why it sets off the CEL on every fill-up. I also thought I may have sediment in the tank and the fill-up is stirring it up but I have filled her up and various capacities. Also, several weeks ago I got the CEL code P0441 for the purge control valve. I replaced it, cleared the CEL and it never came back on. Fuel filter has never been replaced because it is built into the fuel pump assembly.
Overall drivability and MPG's are not affected.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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This has been happening for awhile now, but whenever the gas gets to 1/4 tank and below (about 2 ticks from the red tick on the gauge) the car will stall for about 3 seconds then come back to life. If it happens while I'm stopped it will completely die and I'll have to restart it.
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