My 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
View 5 RepliesOne morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
My 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
I just returned from deployment overseas, excited to get in my truck and ride with the windows down..... Only to find it losing power when I accelerate. It will slowly gain speed but it seems to have no turbo/boost. So I start down the road troublehooting.
I have pulled the EGR valve and it was clean
Checked Map hose, cleaned port on intake
Changed the ICP
Changed the IPR
New Powermax turbo
VGT learn done
New batteries
New DC power 250
Pulled the EBP sensor and cleaned. Even tried it unplugged
New fuel pump
New FICM with Atlas 40 from ED
Truck is 2003 6.0L Ex 163k
New ARP studs/gaskets/
Has a tune but also ran it in stock; no change
Flushed and filled with CAT ELC
Has new BPD oil cooler relocate behind passenger batt
So for my scan gauge numbers....
My deltas are good; 201/196
When I pull out, and normally drive my IPR will do 86.7 in the throttle but ICP won't go above 15-1700. If I floor it the IPR will jump to the 86 but the ICP drops to 700-800 and it's obvious the truck just doesn't have power. It feels like everything is working. Turbo spools and it acts like it wants to roll coal.... But it won't. That ICP drops and she falls on her face.
I ran the SCT code and usually don't get anything except the 1000 which isn't anything. I once got a P0278 and P2623
I even tried another ICP today. The pigtails were clean and I had already swapped them last year.
What else ???? It starts fine. So it shouldn't be the HPOP but that's all that's left really. When I do start it, it starts right away but sometimes will kinda rev or run into the start. Either way of all the troubleshooting steps it seems normal. I just don't have the power.
My Mother has an accent 1.3 glx on a 55 plate the problem she has is that every time she accelerates the car does a hiccup (her words not mine) the engine management light comes on and off and then its fine.
View 3 RepliesThis began occurring after I hosed down my engine with degreaser, stupid me. Car will begin to sputter like it is losing power around 30-40mph, and then it's fine. Rarely it happens around higher speeds with the cruise control on around 65 its just fine and the CEL never came on. Well yesterday i pulled the battery cable for 30 minutes to let things reset, then i got a CEL, code P0030 which I think is an o2 sensor, so i guess it went bad from the water perhaps? What part I need, where it is located and how difficult this would be to do in the driveway?
View 8 Replies2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
View 4 RepliesI own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyundai Accent with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple of days ago it started losing power when I gave it gas, like it was dragging or gasping for air. I could barely get it to 60 on the highway unless going down hill and when going up even a low grade I could barely maintain 40 mph. I took it to Hyundai dealership and the mechanic confirmed it seemed to have a "suction" problem. After about 20 minutes I was told that the catalytic converter had broke apart and been sucked into the engine.
View 9 RepliesMy standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
I have a 1999 7.3 with 260k miles. It is all stock with the exception of straight pipe. I got the truck about 8 months ago and have put about 5k miles on it. Have never had any issues with it. I was driving from Dallas to Houston and about 45 minutes into the trip my truck lost power. I was going about 65-70 mph and the service engine line came on and I lost power. It was running rough and was blowing white smoke. I let it sit for a couple minutes and started it back up and ran fine until 30 minutes later. It did this 2 more times on the way to Houston. Oil is good, coolant is good. Not over heating. Threw a code the first time but didn't throw it the other times. I brought it to a mechanic and he thinks it's the Wastegate.
View 14 RepliesAccent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
View 18 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
View 8 RepliesI have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
View 1 RepliesI have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesIt's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
So I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL. I have had the alternator, sensor and battery replaced recently. Well brakes etc too.
My problem is now the car will not start. It was fine this morning and later in the day I went out to start it to move it and there is NO power to it at all.
When I put the key in to start it, no power, no lights etc..
I just bought a 2000 Accent for my sons first car. I an having some problems with the a/c not working. Here is a little history of the car, the dude I got the car from said the a/c was working before someone broke out the radio bezel to seal the radio( I don't know for sure that it was working). I replaced the bezel and installed a factory radio and everything works fine ( radio, blower,clock , lighter & all wiring looks good). The only thing that is not working is the a/c button it will not light up and there is not power going in or out of the switch. I checked all the fuses and relays and they are good. I used a jumper wire on the compressor and it kicks in, but is a little low on Freon( going to top it off tomorrow). Will the triple switch kill the power to the a/c button( I would think it would just kill power to the compressor)? Is there another switch or relay that I might be missing somewhere?
No A/C Light, No A/C, Not Cold