My Mother has an accent 1.3 glx on a 55 plate the problem she has is that every time she accelerates the car does a hiccup (her words not mine) the engine management light comes on and off and then its fine.
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 1.5l works fine when cold however once it reaches temperature it will hiccup and then stall! It WILL NOT fire up until it gets cold again. Usually happens when we are coasting to a stop. I'm not a mechanic but can am mechanically inclined. I brought it to Autozone and had the computer codes sent (yes check engine lt was on) One code was a fuel lean code. Cannot recall the exact number. When it act up it sounds like there is either no fuel or no fire. I cleaned the mass air sensor and put fuel treatment in it and I replaced the fuel gas cap.
View 1 Replies2000 Hyundai Accent GS, 1.5l, 4cyl SOHC...
I have a slight issue. A few weeks ago, I put some "STP" style fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank. Either A) It cleaned everything really well and clogged my injectors, or it turned into gunk and possibly clogged something else up.
Ever since that day, my issue is that the car "stutters" very slightly. When idling, it'll "hiccup." When I'm doing normal driving, 55-60mph at 2k RPM, It'll almost feel like a transmission slip.
I've went and replaced my Fuel pump, filter, and now I've done half a can of seafoam through the brake line power booster (vaccuum) straight into the engine, and the other half into my oil for further cleaning. I also applied Seafoam Deep Creep into my throttle body, just for further maintenance.
Ever since then, everything has been running noticeably better, and I've had a huge increase in gas mileage, but there's still a slight hiccup that occurs during idle and driving.
I change the oil /filter, plugs, wires, air filter on a regular basis.
I also had to change the MAF at one point in time, as it died and the car wouldn't start at all.
Next thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the plugs / wires one more time (it's been about 5 months since my last change) just to see if I bought a faulty plug.
The car was put on a computer and the only error code that came up was one about my check engine light being out.
I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesAbout 2 months ago my 2008 accent 3 dr hatchback started to do what i can only explain as a hiccup while idling and also when first hitting the gas. But I didn't have. Check engine light on. So I changed the air filter and put techron a fuel injector cleaner in it stopped until last night so I am replacing the spark plugs. Is there any thing else i should look in to replacing?
View 5 RepliesMy 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
View 7 Replies2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
View 4 RepliesOne morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
I own a hyundai accent 2000 GLS, i have recently replaced the ECM wiring and a brand new ignition coil, however the engine still sputters when i try to accelerate in higher gears, my mechanic told me that the engine mounting bushes need replacement. is it one of the causes? the sparks plugs are new, fuel pump is working fine.
View 7 RepliesI have a Hyundai Accent 1500, 2001 model which wont start first time but will on second or third try. I was told it was low fuel pressure so fitted new fuel pump and filter but it is still the same. What could it be.
View 1 RepliesMy standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
This isn't my car, but It is my grandparents and I drive it often to my doctors 80 miles away, and to meetings 100 miles away. Both directions are very hilly and one of the road has 3 mile inclines. 2005 Hatch, Automatic.
Fresh spark plugs, oil change, oil filter, air filter. 95k miles.
Gas mileage is ok, but it has a really hard time getting up hill. I will be almost pedal to the floor going up the hill for 3 miles at 3k RPM.
Is this something I should be turning OD off for? I checked the manual and OD wasn't mentioned in the glossary.
Just got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
View 3 RepliesI keep getting p0420 and p0112. All new parts with in the last 10k miles new battery , starter , alternator , spark plugs , 02 sensors both bank 1 and 2 , catalytic converter aka exhast manifold , new map sensor , timing belt
The car drives fine it just hesitates to start up almost every time. Car has 210k miles
My sister is having an odd issue on her 3-door accent. The hatch-open indicator light is on all the time. But when you press the brake pedal the light goes out. She has to disconnect the battery every night so it won't wear down.
Most of the suggestions were to check the sensor/latch at the hatch. But if the light is going out when you press the brake pedal - then the problem is nothing to do with the sensor. I think it might be a bad ground somewhere. I've taken the sensor/latch completely apart - the problem is not there.
She had this problem a few years ago. I wiggled and pulled on every harness under the dash, and I removed, checked, and reinstalled the rear bulbs. I don't think any of that worked, but eventually the light went out on its own. But now the problem is back. I think the problem might go away and come back depending on the moisture in the air.
I purchased my first Ford back in 2006 it was a 1999 Explorer Sport. Gave me a long line of problems from suspension to head gasket repair to rear main seal repair to ANOTHER head gasket repair. But sure enough, like I'm sure many of you have, I fell in love with her. She could do no wrong. Even now that I got her off the road she is still my baby. Now my recently purchased 2000 Explorer XLS which I've only had for about 5 months just yesterday started doing a strange hesitation. Perhaps a misfire. My initial instinct was dirty fuel injectors that hopefully if I'm lucky will be the easiest fix in Ford history. Another hypothesis is a bad plug. Either way, in my mind, that's best case scenario. I have yet to take it in and plan on buying some injector cleaner later on today. When I'm idling there's no problem. It's as soon I step on the gas that I feel the hesitation. Almost like a constant hiccup.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
View 4 RepliesI've owned my passat 07 2.0t for 8 months now (less than 10k) and i've noticed a difference in performance.
I usually keep the car in D (instead of S) to save some gas. My car is taking an awful long time to accelerate, specially at the traffic lights. Much older cars and old drivers (grannys) pass me after the light turns to green (i'm always the last one to take off). The engine goes all to the way to 3k rpms making a loud noise (even with the windows up) as if it was @ redline. Eventually it catches up and the turbo kicks in and i can get a decent speed but it takes so much longer than before. I also noticed that while it's doing that i only get 5-6 mpg (according to the car's computer).
I have a 3.6L V6 2006 Passat and every time I accelerate, I hear this Tin-Can-like hollow noise from the engine amost like a rattle from the exhaust. Finally I was at the dealer today and I mentioned it. The mechanic came out to the car and could hear it as I revved the engine. We kind of isolated it to the FSI pump... there was also a very audible ticking noise from the engine like in the old days with valves.... He couldn't tell what's causing it?
Unfortunately they didn't have another used or client's V6 Passat VW on the lot to compare the noise to see if it is normal. Mine has 22,000 km on it. He also said a new one may not have it at first while the car is still new and tings tighter, but as one puts some mileage on it he thought the noise may start becoming louder. It makes the car feel like a cheap japanese car, rather than a nice tight engine noise one gets from a german car...
Prius 2010 UK model, rattle noise coming from the dashboard between the speaker grill and the A shaped trim/glass window driver side (UK model) every time I accelerate, is there constantly all the time, is driving crazy, 9 hours a day in the car most of the week and this bloody annoying rattle. Can't stand it anymore.
View 5 RepliesWhen I accelerate I notice a rattling noise almost each time. Is it bad gas? I have been getting gas (90-95% of the time) at the same gas station for years, including the whole time with my 2011.
Also for the first time today i got an error message on my screen for the radio that says something to the effect that the USB has too much power consumption and will not run.
When I powered off and powered back on after lunch it started working again. I never had either problem with my 2011.