AC Noise When Idling At Traffic Lights
May 2, 2015
I hate trying to describe noises. When idling at lights I hear AC noise. Not the air coming through the vent. It's something else. Is that normal? Previous cars were silent when new, wheezing didn't happen until older.
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My high mileage 2002 SC430 seems to shake very slightly when I the car is idling at traffic lights (both when it is warm and when it is cold). The shaking is very very slight but it is noticeable. The shaking does not occur if the air conditioning is running or when the car is moving. The check engine light is not on.
The previous owner did mention that the alternator may need to be replaced eventually, but I don't know if this could be related.
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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I have a 2012 Prius. It has twice shut down spontaneously when idling while in traffic. I have explained this, the Service Advisor said he had never heard of it. My question is: why is this happening? The car has been properly serviced. It never happened with my 2006 Prius.
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Well I drove the wife to work in her Prius this morning. I noticed in heavy stop go traffic, the engine was idling more than normal. Normally the EV light is on when I am stationary ( idle) in traffic, but for some reason today almost more than 70% of the stop go traffic the RPM was felt via the brake pedal and EV light was off, but the battery had at least 3 bars or more I think.
The load on the vehicle was the usual, AC on at 65 in ECO mode and radio. I guess this question might be more a hybrid newbie question than anything else. So, just curious what "drives" the vehicle to be in EV mode when stationary in traffic or in my case earlier this morning what prevented it?
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I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?
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1995 dodge neon... When I turn the car off, it burps, or bubbles air into the overfill tank. Car now also overheats when idling or in stop and go traffic. Temperature goes down when running heater.Not sure if it is the water pump or an issue with the radiator.
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So today I was standing still in traffic and the ESP and ABS lights came up all of the sudden.. I got these codes.. What could it be?
The third code is the same as the second one....
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My 2000 Ford Ranger over heats when I stop at traffic lights. I took it to Tire Kingdom and hey suggested a new thermostat and a radiator flush. I did both and it continues. What is the issue?
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My 2007 with 73k has started to idle rough at traffic lights. Not horrible, but a noticeable vibration. Rpm's are around 500. If I put it in neutral, rmps go up to about 800 and idle gets better. What could cause a rough idle like this?
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When backing out of the garage, it started with a slipping or tires feeling like they were grabbing the concrete. Then came hesitation and/or jumping at traffic lights. This seemed to improve but then a whoop, whoop helicopter noise which seemed to get louder during acceleration. The repair shop has diagnosed it "internal transmission problem". Is this common? Any estimate on cost to repair?
The transmission did seem to make a noise and possibly slip when going over speed bumps. This appeared to be addressed under warranty. Current mileage is about 130k.
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
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Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
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On my way to pick up my mother in law yesterday I noticed a strange whirring sound whilst at the traffic lights, thought that was a strange new sound anyway I guessed something was wrong so on arrival I noticed an oil like mark on the left hand side of the car on the wet drive. So it looks like I may have a corroded power steering line. Got the car booked in with the chap who does my vehicle repairs for me is this a difficult job on the V10?
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I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
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Just cking..if I am in a traffic jam..I notice after awhile there is a shift in the engine and I don't get good mileage anymore until I am out of traffic..what gives??
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200 that has been extremely reliable until recently. My car is suddenly unable to deal with stop-and-go traffic. After sitting in traffic for 15 minutes or so, I will hear something that sounds like a fan or electric motor come on. It sounds like it comes from under the hood on the passenger side. Shortly after that, it seems like the accelerator stops working. I let the clutch out, and hit the gas like normal, and the car stalls. When I restart the car, the fan noise is gone and it runs fine for another 5-10 mins before it all happens again. This has happened maybe 4 times over the last few weeks. It has not happened under any other driving conditions.
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I have been using the lights on Auto. During day time, there would be times I would be waiting in the car in a parking lot for up to 30 mins and leave the car on, while I listen to radio and A/C on. I noticed the lights are exterior lights are on during this idling time. I then manually turn off the lights, but noticed I cannot turn off the Day Time running lights if the car is on. Is there a way, while the car is on to turn off all lights?
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