Just bought a 1995 GMC Sonoma. Needs some TLC but the brake and clutch pedals are unusually hard. They are still 100% operable, but they are both pretty stiff. Any trial and error ideas I should try to attempt to resolve this issue? Yes, fluids are topped off.
View 1 RepliesI've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
View 9 RepliesI have an issue when I go to start the car after it sits for as little as 30 min.The brake pedal is stiff and its hard to start since you have to depress the brake pedal prior to starting the car .
View 3 RepliesThis happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesI own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
View 6 RepliesThe Sonoma is basically the same as a Chevy S-10. It has a 4.3L V-6, auto trans. and 148K miles.
About half the time it will crank and crank and crank before it finally starts. Other times it will start with the first cylinder to hit TDC. I have found that waiting with the key on until the security light goes out will SOMETIMES make a difference. If I don't wait for the light to go out, it always takes several attempts to start. I hope that symptom is not entirely in my mind. I don't think it will start at all if I just continue to grind on the starter. Doing it in 3-5 second bursts sometimes works, sometimes not. It does not seem to matter if it is the first start of the day, or after the engine is warmed up.
The fuel pump appears to have been replaced at some time as some idiot sawed a hole in the bed to do it rather than dropping the tank. There is no way to know how old the pump is, but I suspect they may have been fighting the same problem, and should be shot.
I have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
View 1 RepliesI just bought an 02 Eddie Bauer 4.6 4x4 for my mother in law. The power gas and brake pedals are not working. Worse than that the gas pedal is stuck all the way forward (firewall) and the brake pedal is stuck all the way up high(towards the seat) They do try to move, so the switch is working. How do I get them even again?
View 4 RepliesI've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
View 4 RepliesIt's been a while, but my clutch has been really stiff for a while now. I don't think it was always this stiff. My mother has the same car and her clutch is really "light" and is very easy to press in. While mine is about as stiff as my friends corvette.... Is it just normal in that all clutches feel different or could something be wrong?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 CRV with 95,000 miles. In a heavy rain I get water leakage on my driver's side floor. Have had a new windshield installed but it still leaks. Plan to keep vehicle for 2-3 years more.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 LS460. I have a clicking noise coming from the brake pedal area. It happens in the morning when the brakes are cold. I had the same problem when the car was new, and Lexus put in a new actuator. It was ok for about 6 months, and started clicking again. Maybe 3 or 4 soft clicks when I push lightly on the brake pedal. Every time I take it in to Lexus, they say it has the new actuator, and the noise is so soft that they act like they can't hear it. The car is so quiet otherwise, that to me the clicking is very annoying. I have called Lexus corporate, to no avail. Sounds to me that they have a problem they don't want to admit.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GTS with 80,000 miles. The clutch pedal pressure was very stiff. I had a 2001 GT, and it had a very soft and easy clutch. I just removed and rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder, using the CSK 2426 rebuild kit. The slave cylinders on 2000 to 2005 Celicas are all the same. After bleeding the cylinder, the pedal pressure is very much improved. It still takes some effort, but not like before.
View 1 RepliesThe brake lights on my truck are not working all the fuses are good, the bulbs are good, I have changed the brake switch. They still do not work, altho all the other lights at the rear work even tail lights.
View 19 RepliesThis morning I tried to put my car into reverse and I literally had to force it. It didn't grind or anything, no funny sounds that I have heard, just didn't want to go. It also felt like shifting was kind of "stiff" or tight... The car has 76K on it and I've never replaced the clutch, so it might just be due, but it kind of happened out of the blue. After the first incident of the reverse not cooperating, I didn't have any problems for the rest of the day, but shifting in general still kinda felt off... A coworker said that basically means I'll need a new clutch within a few weeks.
Is it just time for a new clutch? Or is there something I can do? And, so I don't get taken for everything, how to present this problem to my mechanic? I trust them, but I want to be as informed as possible when I go in to talk to them.
My 1970 Nova has a very stiff clutch pedal. Is it possible to adjust the tension on it? It's getting to the point where it makes my foot sore to drive the thing- very annoying. It has a 3 speed on the floor gear-shift.
View 11 RepliesMy tail lights have recently stopped working. When I use blinkers, they are slow, and don't blink if brakes are pressed. The brakes show as a very faint light that cannot be seen in day time. I turned on the hazards to look myself, and they started beeping. I called GMC support and it's too old for them to still know anything about it. I checked the fuses for the rear end and they are both working.
View 19 RepliesI just purchased a 2002 2 door manual Echo. Car has 70K miles. I noticed that there isnt much travel for the clutch pedal (at least compared to my SX4), I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to engage and it seems pretty stiff shifting between gears. Is this normal for this car? Only my second Toyota owned and the first was an auto trans.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 1.3 Yaris T Spirit VVTi.
I am told I need a new clutch. First and second gear can be stiff to select, especially in cold weather, and the pedal has to be floored to change gear. The bite point is very high, and the clutch can judder before engaging but we are so used to it this only occurs occasionally at slow speeds.
However, the clutch does not slip in any gear and as I say it doesn't cause us any real problems because we are so used to it. The car has done 107,000 miles and has the original clutch (as far as I know).
Should the clutch be replaced?
I've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
When I drive my car, is fine for the first twenty minutes. After which time, the car drives like the E brake is on. Further, when I'm in city streets, the rpms go really high just to hit 25 mph. When I take my foot off the gas, the car gradually slows to the point where the car stops while in drive. Even if i press the gas, I have to press hard before the car moves. And when it does move, is like the E brake is on because it acts like it doesn't want to move. While traveling, is hard to reach 40 mph without the engine feeling heavily over worked.
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