Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
View 2 RepliesFirst thing in the morning It seems to take a lot of turning over before it fires, but after it fires up it seems ok untill it sits for some time, Am I dealing with a fuel pump problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
View 4 RepliesThis intermittent no-start problem has been going on for approximately three years. It seems to be related to the fuel pump not coming on. When the car won't start - it will sputter a little then the engine will just turn over (strong battery) but you can't hear the fuel pump. Took it to the Chevy dealer first time and they said it needed a new fuel pump with a $1,200 price tag. We said we wanted to get a second opinion and took it to an independent garage. It's been so long that we forget what he did - but he did not replace the fuel pump.
A few months later - car does the exact same thing again, sputter then no start. Finally we we agreed to replace the fuel pump - so out comes the rear axle, exhaust system and fuel tank to install the new pump. Couple of months later - sputter then no start. Towed back to independent garage again after a few days it started with out doing any work on it. Started every time for the 6 months it sat at the garage. Attempted to replace the anti-theft model with a used one and he could get the car to start at all - reinstalled old module and it started immediately.
Have had the car back for a month and it sputters quite a bit before running. Today, sputter and no start . . . had the car towed back to the house in hope that it will start without intervention like the last time it went to a garage. The security system idiot light does goes off with the other idiot lights. I'm guessing the sputter is the gasoline that was in the system the last time the engine ran - then when no more fuel is being supplied - it won't start. The independent garage says they are reluctant to install a new anti-theft module for fear it won't be the solution.
A year ago my 1998 chevy camaro 6 cyl eng. randomly did not start. Then came back to it 15 min later and it started right up and did not give me another problem.3 months ago it did the same thing, but then would go a week at least with no more trouble sometimes longer sometimes more frequent.
within this past month it has become very frequent and I have had to push start it with the clutch a few times to get to work. It starts right up when I pop the clutch every time. Now the car will not start with the key no matter what.
Some more details on what it does now - When I first get in it after it has sat a little while you can hear the starter solenoid click the first three times or so when I turn the key. After that you do not hear the solenoid click anymore, but the relay up under the hood clicks every time with the key. (for kicks I even swapped the starter relay and the ignition relay with no change)
The battery is fairly new, but I load checked it anyway and it is perfect, plus I tried another good battery and jumper cables from a battery in a running car so that's not the problem. I have cleaned all corrosion off terminals and the ground to the engine and to the car.
I checked the resistance of the little piece on each of two ignition keys and they check fine.
I have checked the clutch switch down by the pedal multiple ways. checked resistance of the switch, voltage when the key is on and jumpering the plug with a paper clip.
when I push start the car and have it running I can turn the key with the clutch out nothing happens, but if I push the clutch in the starter will engage (grind) every time (I didnt do this a lot). this tells me that the clutch switch is working and the started is working right?
I did switch the starter out with another used unit and it did the same thing.
I unhooked the alternator on the off chance a short in that was drawing too much juice and not giving enough to the starter (I know I am really reaching here).
I have a 1997 Camaro Z28 with 37,000 miles. A year ago it developed a problem of not starting after driving and being warmed up. The best description is when running errands, after the 2nd or 3rd stop, it will not start. If I let it sit for a couple of hours, then it will finally start, but I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. If it sits overnight, it starts like a brand new car. When the problem happens, the starter is engaging and the engine is cranking. I have had a mechanic spend hours trying to diagnose this and has had no luck, partially due to the intermittent problem. The car is an automatic, not a six speed.
View 7 RepliesWas running with a slight miss until reach 30 mph for about 5 days now this morning, turning over and over but won't start..checked 2 plug wires no spark to ground..how to fix and make start?
View 5 RepliesI have a 95-960 [straight 6] that doesn't want to start!
I parked the car roughly 8 weeks ago, yesterday I went to start it! ..firstly the battery had gone flat, No big problem, the battery is only about 6months old so I whipped out the car starter battery pack thingy [as I Have done in the past after a long time parked] but to my dismay it didn't kick! firstly i was concerned that the fuel pump may have *** it's self, so I cracked the fuel line at the engine and turned the ignition on!..plenty of fuel!Next I take one of the coil packs out and turn it over again...NO SPARK!..I only just parked it here a couple of month ago and it was fine..
the car normally runs faultlessly and has never not started in the past, it has all new timing belt and tensioner fitted a couple of thousand k's ago, new battery, plenty of fuel, and less than 200,000kms on the clock..
I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
View 3 RepliesI am working on a 2001 durango 4.7 that will not start I guess it was running bad one day on his way home but he made it home. He noticed two vacuum lines looked really cracked so he replaced them still was not any better. He said you could hear a slaping noise on the passanger side front of the motor for about 2 years. I figure that was the slack in the timing chain. Then it sat for a couple days and know it will not even start I scanned it and showed bad cam sensor PO340 code. So I replaced it and decided to pull a plug and coil and stuck the plug in the end of the coil and held the coil so the plug thread was up against a bolt and cranked and have no spark. So I went and picked up a crank sensor and replaced the old one. Still no start and no spark testing it the way I mentioned above. What to try know not very familiar with these 4.7 and dodge for that matter.
View 7 RepliesMy 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
View 2 Repliesi have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
View 1 RepliesWhy my '01 Passport will not start? Was driving down the road and it just shut down on me. It cranks but will not fire. Replaced timing belt, fuel pump, and now ECM still not luck. I know it's getting fuel to the rail but no spark!
View 1 RepliesI have a friends 91 GTO in my garage and it will not start, it seems to be getting fuel because it smells pretty strong but I know it isn't getting spark, and everything on this car is in Japanese, I cant even figure out what fuses to check or anything...
View 1 RepliesThis has the 2.2 engine with the ignition coil mounted on the firewall, not inside the distributor.
Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.
Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.
Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.
Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark
Replace ignition coil and ignitor - no spark
The wires all test with the right ohms so I'm not sure what is left to replace.
After replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesMy 1990 740 will not start. These are the tests I have completed:
Starter and battery are in good condition.
The fuel pump works, it delivers fuel pressure on initial starting.
The plugs are new and gaped correctly.
I am getting a good spark at all plugs.
I have tested for power at the cold start valve. It is connected to the top of the starter and is at 9 volts while starting the engine.
The timing belt is new and is operating correctly. The engine is timed correctly.
I have noticed that there is no fuel getting to the plugs. I pulled one and it is dry.
The code is 3-2-1. Cold Start valve? It is 75 degrees.....the car should start?
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I have a perplexing problem and I'm at wits end trying to figure it out. I have an 03 GTI 1.8t 20th. The car has been running great until today when I replaced a few bolts with the front bumper and replaced a motor mount bolt on the passenger side mount. Everything was great until I did the work on it. I figured I had bumped the cam position sensor so I swapped it out for a new one and nothing still. I have verified I have spark and I definitely have fuel as it keeps drenching the spark plugs. I have cleaned the spark plugs and tried starting only for the car to violently sputter and misfire. No codes are being recorded and nothing else has been touched.
View 9 Replies1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
View 4 RepliesOK, so I have a friend with a '89 Volvo 240 which has trouble starting. He usually can get it started by cranking and pumping the gas pedal furiously. This usually gets the car started quickly, although today it barely sputters (seems to want to start after lots of manic foot pumping, but ultimately fails).
I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.
Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.
Another problem he reports is that after driving a long distance (more than a few blocks) the starter won't run unless the engine sits for at least 30 minutes.
2.4L. Starter cranks but engine doesn't start. Per other forums I have changed the crank sensor and cam sensor, spark plugs. No change. I went back and did Volt meter test on the new sensors: Crank sensor showed 13 volt on red wire, 0 and 5 volt while cranking on blue wire. Cam sensor had 13 volt on red wire and 13 volt on signal wire while cranking. Was expecting alternating 0-5 volt. Could I have a bad ECM?
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