7 Series :: 740il 2001 - Clicking Sound When Crank The Car
Feb 2, 2010
I have a clicking sound when I crank the car I think it might be tensioners ...
View 1 RepliesI have a clicking sound when I crank the car I think it might be tensioners ...
View 1 RepliesThe car hasn't been driven in about a year, but I did start it a few months ago to let it run. The battery died, so I have just now had a chance to get a new one. I accidentally hooked it up backwards and everything came on at one time. Before I got the cables off, it had started smoking somewhere in the engine (electrical smoke) I can't find though where it came from.
Now- I have the battery on correctly and it is trying to crank, but want turnover. I have checked fuses and have no clue what to do. I have full battery power too.
Also, when I hook the batter up, one headlight comes on even though the lights are turned off. I can't it to go off other than disabling the battery.
My BMW is heating up very quickly within Min's it goes right to the middle but never overheats. I just noticed I have a bulge in my upper rad. hose. Yes I know replace asap. My question is it common for these BMW's to heat up so quickly? I was thinking about changing the therom.
View 2 RepliesI bought a new 2000 740il and the navigation system went black recently and the radio shuts off after 2 min. and you have to double click the on off to get the radio back on, then it shuts off again after 2 min. The navigation screen and system does not work and I did not disconnect the battery, lose power or get a jump, as many first ask. The dealer has no solution but to sell me a new car or a new system.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 740iL. The speedometer, odometer, and instantaneous mileage indicator are inoperative most of the time. Also, the yellow ABS indicator (and another yellow light) on the dash are also lit whenever the gauges are not working.
The ONLY time that the gauges work is when the temperature is under about 45 F, and if the car is cold. If the car warms up, or if the temperature outside warms up, the indicator lights go on and the gauges don't work.
I presume that there is some faulty connection that works when the parts are cold (contracted), and bad when the parts are warm (some degree of compression due to thermal expansion).
(One fellow said that this could be either an internal fault in the instrument cluster, internal fault in the ABS module, or faulty wheel speed sensor).
What makes the most sense, especially given the thermal nature of the problem??
I have a 2005 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4. 4.0, 5 speed. Pretty bare bones truck. On the 4th, my truck was fine... Good deal. On the morning of the 5th, I had a no start issue. No crank, no lights, nada. Figured it's the battery as the one in it was in there when I got it. Got a new one and dropped it in. No difference. This morning I drove me other truck and when I tried to start it this morning I got a clicking in the lower passenger side area. The dash is dark except for the battery and airbag lights, and they're really really dim. This is my newest to me truck and one before this was a 74 Chevy. So computer ones are not my strong point at all.
View 14 RepliesDealing with mother in law's 01 Elantra GT. 175k miles, unknown history for the most part except for recent maintenance.
Having some issues now. The car will not start..the battery is fine and that is ruled out. The car will intermittently not crank...it could be days, but luckily I have the car today and the situation is currently happening. All my dash lights and electricals work fine.
It is an automatic car.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal. I looked at the switch near the pedal and it appears to function properly but see below.
When I turn the key, I can hear noise from the cruise control module underneath the hood, but nothing else. No clicking, no crank. Dash lights don't change except the clock fades out, but turns back on when key is off the start position.
I thought maybe something with shifter. In the Run key position, I can sometimes shift it out of park and into another gear...but sometimes not. It seems that changing how I press the brake pedal affects whether I can get it out of park.
The car was perfectly fine earlier today and that is why this is so strange. Sometimes it would leave her stranded, sometimes it works fine.
When I do shift out of gear, the dashboard reflects the proper gear on the digital display.
I have a 2005 f-250 King Ranch 5.4 triton engine...my problem occurs when i turn the key to start the pickup....i get a clicking sound and then nothing....when i use a portable jump starter, it fires right up...on the other hand, when i try to jump from a running vehicle i only get a clicking sound from the starter...
not sure what i should be testing...also, when i bought the vehicle it had been sitting for several months...for my test drive, they used a commercial charger/starter to fire the truck...i drove it about 10 miles, stopped, turned off the motor and 10 minutes later it wouldn't start...when i contacted the owner, he drove to me and "reset" the kill switch under the fuse box in the cab and then jump started the truck...
I drove it 40 miles home and for 4 days had no starting issues...on day 5 forward, i have had to use the portable jump starter every time...my battery shows 13 amps resting and drops to 5 amps when i try to start without portable jump starter...when i start it with the portable jump starter, it only drops to 10 amps...
I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
It's a 01 Ranger 3.0 V6 5 spd 2wd. He drove home from work then the next morning wouldn't crank over. Turn the key and it doesn't even attempt to crank. All dash lights, headlights, etc come on. Battery is good. Took starter out and tested at parts store. Tested good. Clutch switch was good. Replaced ignition switch with no change. If I jump the solenoid on the starter it will turn the engine over. When turning the key I can hear the starter relay in the fuse block under the hood clicking. All fuses were good. I found the main engine ground wasn't hooked up to anything. I hooked it back up and still nothing. All battery connections were good but cleaned them anyway. Not really sure where to go from here.
View 6 Replies2001 Ranger 3L v6 auto, 186k miles. Never had a problem. One day last month I park it at home. 10 minutes later I need to make a quick trip . Get in, turn key, absolutely nothing happens. Replaced the battery, starter/solenoid, and ignition switch (not the key cylinder lock, but the white box inside the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel...has lots of wires going into and out of it,...turning the key slides a little metal pin inside it up and down). All fuses and relays are good, neutral safety switch is good. Key lock cylinder is mechanically working properly. Engine is not headlights, interior lights, wipers, radio, etc all work fine. Theft light is not blinking rapidly. Headlights do not dim when ignition key is turned. Where do I go from here?
View 2 Repliesi have a 2001 ranger 4x4 the problem is sometimes it will switch into 4 wheel drive and sometimes it wont just hear clicking noise ,i'm preety sure it doenst have a vaccum.
View 14 RepliesCan't seem to figure out what is making this clicking noise. It comes from under the dash, drivers side, under the steering column... Now as for when this happens, anytime! Truck on, idling, driving, truck off, key turned to acc or key to on. Also happens even when key is not in ignition?! What this could be? Brand new battery and connecting rings/wires.
Additional info: 1996, 2.3L about 150k miles on her and she's still going strong
I have a 2001 saturn l200. On monday I went outside to start the car and I heard clicking sound coming from motor. I did have a new battery put in. As so I push on the gas a little bit I hear it clicking as soon the car warms up its stop clicking and i did have a oil change done...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn L200. My A/C doesn't work. My dad is a retired old school mechanic and can't figure it out. The compressor turns on, on occasion, we think it's not getting power because we connected the compressor directly to the battery and it turns on fine. Think it's some type of electrical issue. Also hear a clicking sound inside the cabin when I depress the brakes when my gear shift lights are off. Sometimes they work and doors lock automatically when I put it in drive, but other times the lights don't work and I get that clicking and my doors don't lock. I believe the issue is electrical and tied together with a/c issues, but have no idea where to look.
View 2 RepliesMy vehicle is a 2004 XG350L with 120,900. I've got a clicking sound at start-up, especially in the cold, coming from the cam cover. It goes away after the engine is running for a while. What could possibly be causing this? How do I fix it?
View 2 RepliesThis past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
Ford - e350 Superduty .... This truck has the x-tended cab and is 4 wheel drive. It began making noise and vibrating at high speed the other day...like when driving on the out-of-bounds drunk bumps. I found that when I engaged the 4-wheel drive transfer case, with the hubs unlocked, the noise went away for a brief period, but then would start again...especially after hitting a bump in the road. The noise & vibration will happen at any speed. It was suggested it might be the carrier bearing, but I checked that (pulled the drive-line) and it is tight. I had to back out a trailer in 4-wheel drive the other day and the phenomenon went away for several days, but is back now. With the windows down I can hear a clacking sound (not a clicking sound) that goes along with the vibration.
View 1 RepliesWhat is the cause for a clicking sound coming from Left hand side wheelwell area when I make semi tight Left hand turns from a parked/stationary position?
View 4 RepliesLast year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????