7 Series :: 1998 BMW 740il Crank But No Turn Over With Full Battery Power
Aug 31, 2009
The car hasn't been driven in about a year, but I did start it a few months ago to let it run. The battery died, so I have just now had a chance to get a new one. I accidentally hooked it up backwards and everything came on at one time. Before I got the cables off, it had started smoking somewhere in the engine (electrical smoke) I can't find though where it came from.
Now- I have the battery on correctly and it is trying to crank, but want turnover. I have checked fuses and have no clue what to do. I have full battery power too.
Also, when I hook the batter up, one headlight comes on even though the lights are turned off. I can't it to go off other than disabling the battery.
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I have a clicking sound when I crank the car I think it might be tensioners ...
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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My BMW is heating up very quickly within Min's it goes right to the middle but never overheats. I just noticed I have a bulge in my upper rad. hose. Yes I know replace asap. My question is it common for these BMW's to heat up so quickly? I was thinking about changing the therom.
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I bought a new 2000 740il and the navigation system went black recently and the radio shuts off after 2 min. and you have to double click the on off to get the radio back on, then it shuts off again after 2 min. The navigation screen and system does not work and I did not disconnect the battery, lose power or get a jump, as many first ask. The dealer has no solution but to sell me a new car or a new system.
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I have a 1999 740iL. The speedometer, odometer, and instantaneous mileage indicator are inoperative most of the time. Also, the yellow ABS indicator (and another yellow light) on the dash are also lit whenever the gauges are not working.
The ONLY time that the gauges work is when the temperature is under about 45 F, and if the car is cold. If the car warms up, or if the temperature outside warms up, the indicator lights go on and the gauges don't work.
I presume that there is some faulty connection that works when the parts are cold (contracted), and bad when the parts are warm (some degree of compression due to thermal expansion).
(One fellow said that this could be either an internal fault in the instrument cluster, internal fault in the ABS module, or faulty wheel speed sensor).
What makes the most sense, especially given the thermal nature of the problem??
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My turtle light is on and even though my battery shoes full, the engine won't turn off.
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It's a 01 Ranger 3.0 V6 5 spd 2wd. He drove home from work then the next morning wouldn't crank over. Turn the key and it doesn't even attempt to crank. All dash lights, headlights, etc come on. Battery is good. Took starter out and tested at parts store. Tested good. Clutch switch was good. Replaced ignition switch with no change. If I jump the solenoid on the starter it will turn the engine over. When turning the key I can hear the starter relay in the fuse block under the hood clicking. All fuses were good. I found the main engine ground wasn't hooked up to anything. I hooked it back up and still nothing. All battery connections were good but cleaned them anyway. Not really sure where to go from here.
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I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
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98 Mazda B4000 4.0 4x4
I bought this truck about two months ago and it has been great no problems starts right up and runs like a top. I was installing a 4 channel amp yesterday on and off and the dome light was on all day as the doors would periodically be opened or closed so it never did that cycle of 10 min or whatever when the lights turns off. This is what killed the battery.
I had my neighbor jump me and after a few minutes of charging it started right up and idled for about a minute long enough he left and parked, then it stalled. I started it about another 6 times before the battery died again. Every time it started fine then would idle between 1-10 sec then start to sputter and eventually die. Pressing the accelerator pedal only killed it faster.
I got a new battery today as the other charges so that I could fix it today without missing work again tomorrow. Unfortunately it does the same thing I was hoping that the voltage was just low or the polarity flipped or something on the other battery.
To sum it up the truck never gave previous symptoms just simply ran too low (battery never DIED the lights came on just clicked when starting) on power and now stalls when started which it does immediately no long cranking.
The twist; truck has an aftermarket alarm by Python. Problem is I don't know anything about the alarm or if it comes with an immobilizer. I am in the process of trying to figure this out but need to pull dash or something to find the "brain"? Never had an alarm like this I disconnected the clear square that adjusts the sensitivity hoping that was it but I don't know where or what I assume the brain of the alarm is.
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2001 Ranger 3L v6 auto, 186k miles. Never had a problem. One day last month I park it at home. 10 minutes later I need to make a quick trip . Get in, turn key, absolutely nothing happens. Replaced the battery, starter/solenoid, and ignition switch (not the key cylinder lock, but the white box inside the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel...has lots of wires going into and out of it,...turning the key slides a little metal pin inside it up and down). All fuses and relays are good, neutral safety switch is good. Key lock cylinder is mechanically working properly. Engine is not headlights, interior lights, wipers, radio, etc all work fine. Theft light is not blinking rapidly. Headlights do not dim when ignition key is turned. Where do I go from here?
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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OK, I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and had to replace the radiator. To do so I had to pull out the battery and the mount and everything. Upon putting everything back together, the car runs great and all works well except my stereo will not turn on! It is totally dead, can't get it to power up or anything. So I went through all the checks, fuses are all ok (in the console and on the back of the stereo itself), I unplugged the stereo and plugged it back in, pushed the reset button on the stereo, and completely disconnected and reconnected the battery.... I'm not sure what else to do.
Now I would simply assume the stereo died, but it was working fine earlier in the day before I took the battery out, not even 8 hours prior. Also, about a year and a half ago I had to replace my battery and this same thing happened. The same stereo seemed dead and I went through all the checks i mentioned previously with no luck. I was about to purchase a new stereo a few weeks later and I plugged it in one last time to double check it and the stereo came on and has worked fine up to today! So I know the stereo isn't bad, there is just something I am missing here.
Car stereo won't turn on, its happened before, and randomly started working again, but now I can't get it back on yet after a battery disconnection.
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97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
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98 4wd extended cab. So weird only the right side is not working. Lights in the dash to the lights outside everything is dead.
Fuses that I could find are good. We replaced the mf switch a few months ago.
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The turn signals and high beams do not work on my 1998 ford ranger xlt 4x4. I have replaced the multi function switch, the yellow flasher relay checked all fusses and all are good. What could be the problem?
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I recently got a pretty cherry 98 Ranger 3.0 2wd extended cab auto. So far all it has needed was wiper blades, floor mats and a heater blend door. Last week my daughter informed me that the flashers and the turn signals stopped working. I looked for blown fuses and then took the low road and just bought a new flasher (my alldatadiy manual showed that the flasher was common to the turn signals and the hazard flashers so I took a shot at just throwing a part at it). That didn't fix it or else. Any pointers?
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I have an '02 Ranger 2.3L 40k miles that will not turn over even with a good battery. When the key is inserted and turned, all the dash lights and headlights come on but the engine does not turn over. Could it be....
*Power Control Module?
*Ignition Module?
*Key?
*Whatever the part is called that reads the Key's security code.
*Clutch Switch?
I am trying to avoid getting the run-around at the dealer and be able to drive to work on Monday!
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So with 172,000 miles my truck has started a new trick. When I turn on the turn signals theyll flash or interrupt normally for a few times then stop. After I turn the signal lever off and back on again they start to flash again only to stop after several times. This happens to both the left and right hand sides. The emergency flashers seem to work alright. Is this a function of the indicator flasher SF631? If so, were exactly is it located?
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I have just purchased a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and there is a problem with the steering. At slow speed, particularly in reverse when performing a full-lock turn, the power delivery is jerky and the vehicles jumps a bit.
It feels like either the AWD system is binding or the CV joints are operating beyond their limits. I have ready other posts that this is a known problem - the dealer I bought it from said the same, that it is known and seems to be accepted by Hyundai, there seems to be no recall on this and apparently this doesn't happen in post 20009 models when they face-lifted and supposedly changed the steering lock limits.
I'd like to understand more what is happening, see if there is a solution that I can implement, or alternatively if I have to just accept this, then it would be good to get reassurance that what I am feeling is not going to damage something further down the line.
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My 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
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