7 Series :: 1984 BMW733i Low Beams Lights Do Not Work
May 18, 2010
I have a 1984 BMW 733i and can't figure out why the Low Beam lights do not work when the light switch is on. The Low Beams work when the High Beams are on. I've replaced the Low Beam lights and checked the fuses.
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My limited has lost it's low beams when the switch is set to head lights but not when set to marker lamps. They still shine at a reduced output then. I've read this may be an issue with the BCM?
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I recently installed new halo HID headlights in my 2003 f150 with HID bulbs and ballast the passenger side worked and the drivers side didn't nth lights wired exactly the same. I switched everything from the passenger to the drivers side still nothing I switched everything back to passenger side and they don't work now. I tired regular bulbs in the passenger side an it worked then on the drivers side and it worked for a split second and went out and then I retried t on the passenger side and it worked for a split second and went out a now neither are working. I checked all the fuses and their good. What the problem could be?
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My brake lights will not work but all other lights do, bulbs and fuse have been replaced.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
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I have a 1984 jayco mini 25 with a 7.5(460)in it. It has been in storage for the past 3 years and has not been started. It turns over and I do get spark. The problem is fuel. I am getting power when I jump the oil pressure switch and ground at the wires on the frame rail that go back to the tanks. My gauge does not work on either my front or rear so at first I thought it just may be as simple as a bad ground since the ground is used for fuel level as well as the pump but I wasnt that lucky.The tank switch is working, I can hear it. What are the odds of both fuel pumps being bad?
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I didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
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I just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
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I've got a '84 ranger that idles super fast for about 30 minutes after a cold start. The truck has been in the family since new and has done it since day one. I am wondering if replacing the electric choke or choke pull down would work. I've got a electric choke replacement but the cover place looks to be attached with rivets not screws. How to remove the choke?
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I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
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working on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
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So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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Problem with 1157 LED bulbs . I install all 4 light bulbs the tail lights and front turn signal lights the problem is all lights work with the signal lights. but when I turn the head lights the front signal lights don't work. Also the turn signal lights on my dash board both light come on
One more thing if I install the regular 1157 on the front . the LED lights on the back work fine and the from work fine . looks like the front don't like the LED bulbs. I have 87 ranger cab and half or extended cab. v6 2.9
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I just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.
I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.
I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark. I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I just purchased this car and the low beams do not turn on when you turn on the lights. Right now I am driving with te DRLs at night. The high beams works perfectly. The fog lights do not work but I have not checked the bulbs (although the indicator lights on the dash works.)
Also looking for diagram of relays. I looked at the fuse panel and see a lot of empty slots. I have relays numbered 18, 21, 99, 36, 110, 53, 167 on the fuse panel. Could I be missing any?
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my 1992 olds 98 low beams do not work. However they high beams do along with the parking lights. I used a test light and am getting no electricity at the light socket. Bulbs are good. I check all fuses under the dash not a bad one. What this is or the next step?
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I just purchased this car and the low beams do not turn on when you turn on the lights. Right now I am drivig with te DRLs at night. The high beams works perfectly. The fog lights do not work but I have not checked the bulbs (althought the indicator lights on the dash works.) Also, any diagram of relays. I looked at the fuse panel and see a lot of empty slots. I have relays numbered 18, 21, 99, 36, 110, 53, 167 on the fuse panel. Could I be missing any?
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2008 Camry Hybrid. Normal lights are dim. Auto on position results in no lights. A turn brings the lights on, but appears to be a "parking" position. High beams OK
The dealership has no clue - they wanted to sell new bulbs. They are barely bright enough to drive at night, certainly not 10% dimmer from age as they described.. (plus the auto on does not work ).
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