5 Series :: 1995 BMW 525i - Fuse For AC Keeps Blowing After Few Minutes
Sep 15, 2009
I have a 1995 BMW 525i and the fuse for the AC keeps blowing after a few minutes. It's #9 in the fuse box. Before the fuse blows the AC works fine. I can't find any visible problems. Is there a common problem that I can check?
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Just bought a jeep cherokee and it has power door locks. The previous owner stated that after a few days after replacing the fuse it blows. He did this a few times and every time the fuse blows for the power door locks.
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Description: It will crank over forever but not start. New timing belt water pump, etc, so it is not timing. tried different fuel pump relay. no luck. new fuse no luck. The radio fuse also shorts and blows when I change it. Headlight does not come on, but the cabin "ding ding ding" sound plays. Marker, turning, reverse, and brake lights work.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT does not come on during key turn. I may know what caused it or it may not. Before all of this happened, my audio system fuse under the hood blow. It blew again after I installed a new fuse (immediately).
One day, the wires on a portable cigarette light pump snapped and the two wires had been touch. I noticed the truck stalled several times when letting off the gas and coming to a rolling stop. The fuel pump relay makes a click noise when I turn the key
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2000 Model, The fuse keeps blowing on this. I thought it was the cruise control fuse because the cruise kept not working and when I replaced fuse it would work. Only for a little though, then I looked at manual and it says the fuse is for the brake position switch. I am presuming this is just like the old days and that is the brake light switch under the dash. They use to have two wires now there is like five. Anyways I do not see any bare wires or anything that would blow a fuse, is it common for these switches to go out or what??
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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my 91 525i wont engage 1st gear..fluids fine..nothing smoking...fluid levels great. color correct in fluid appearance..reverse works..no funny noises from rear end..car just will not shift above 1st. i have replaced transmission filter and fluid.
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My 1990 F150 blows the F1 fuse after driven a short distance. When the fuse blows the ABS light in the dash comes on.
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Fuse #41 keeps blowing...scan tool says o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. Problem is that when the o2 sensors are unplugged it keeps blowing fuse the second I hit the key. Where this short would be? I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. ( I'm new to this forum and I'm sure there is a sticky somewhere..
DTC codes: P1451, P0743. P0750. P0760. P0765. P1747. P0135. P1409. P0755. P0155
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Since last summer my truck keeps blowing fuse 26 and then I have no reverse lights. If I replace the fust its ok for a bit but blows again the same day sometime. The book says its the fuse for revers and overdrive. The overdrive button on the tree shifter stops working too but the truck does not seem to be revving any higher so I think the overdrive itself is fine. I can't find the short but its got to be shorting somewhere...
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I recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
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Recently, the cars electrical system shut down. The central locking system, the windows, seat adjustments, interior lights and the radio quit operating. The A/C, outside mirrors, driving lights & ignition remained operative.
Removing the electrical modules in the engine compartment & re-seating them reset the system. Then the same issue recurred. Re-seating the modules did not resolve this the second time. Only when the modules under the rear seat were removed and re-installed did the systems start again. Which module is defective?
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We got the car a couple days ago. It was running fine then, although suspiciously the guy we bought it from had it running when we got there, leading me to believe he knew about the problem already and didn't want us to. The problem is that after my dad drove it to work yesterday, he tried to start it up at lunch and it wouldn't start. It didn't sound like the starter was trying at all, just a bunch of electronic clicks. However, the electronics all work, dash lights, headlights, locks, etc. It just doesn't seem to be able to start up.
When we took it to a shop for an unrelated issue, a mechanic said there were wires hanging down in the trunk for a sub, and we knew this but thought it was no big deal. He told us that if it was wired wrong, it could be draining the battery, even without being hooked up to a sub. I checked the battery, and there were a few extra wires hanging off the negative terminal. However, that doesn't make sense to me, how could a couple of wires attached to just the negative terminal do anything?
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My 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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fuse #11 in the battery junction box under hood keeps blowing, the last time I put a fuse in it blew immediately, key was off and lights off. Fuse is for parking lights, dash light and I/P(whatever that is) and switch illumination lights. I have to start following all wires to find bad spot. May just put in piece of metal and watch for smoke...
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Fuse 29 was blown when I got my truck, automatic headlights and overdrive lock didn't work. I replaced the fuse, the lights came on and overdrive locked out but when I shifted into park the doors locked and the fuse blew. How the door locks are related and why they would lock when shifting to park?
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2 days ago I was driving to a friends house and it started to rain. I put on my wipers and after 5 minutes they stopped working. I pulled over and checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I had a spare 25A fuse and replaced it on the spot. I first check the horn since it's the same fuse connection. The horn worked ok then I went on with the wiper...the second I put on the wipers the fuse blew again not even letting the wiper make one cycle.
Could it be the wiper motors? What should I do other then bring it in. I want to do it myself.
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FUSE 38 Keeps blowing...it controls the fans and dealer is not sure why. Coolant fan control (FC) control Module.....
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I have a 1995 Honda civic. It blew the PGM-fi fuse after installing a working horn. Then the car wouldn't turn off. It was In Park I removed the key and the engine and brake lights were still on. When I completely disconnect the gauge assembly the car will then shut off with the key. When the gauge assembly is connected engine won't shut off, brake lights stay on and speedometer won't work. I read a few tips in an online form- I tried unplugging the alternator while the car was in off position (engine still running) this had no effect.
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I have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
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