5 Series :: 1986 528e Tranny Won't Engage Forward
Mar 21, 2004
My 1986 528e was used to jump start another vehicle, ran it for a minute or so in Park @ 2000 rpm per owner's manual instruction, got other vehicle started, reversed away from other vehicle, put selector into Drive and car would not move forward. Tried all other forward options, no go. Reverse works just fine. Checked fluid and it was low. Topped it up but still no forward gears. Had vehicle towed home. Checked selector cable and it is OK. What could this be to go out all of a sudden like this?
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My 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
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I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
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I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
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Have an 89 shorty, 3.0 with the a4ld tranny. Every once in a while, the other day being the worst, the tranny will not engage right away, not in D, and then not in R either... go back to D, wait about 20 secs, and it then acts fine.... but it's was a scarey 20 secs!
it only happens when it's cold, and hasn't been running... the fluid does need a change, and it will slip sometimes when it's warm in first gear, but not often. it's like a reddish brown color right now.
Is it time for a new tranny? or should I try to do a gentle flush on her first to see if that works... or just do a new filter and new tranny fluid for that... some people say it could make things worse, some say better....
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I am a new manual 4wd system. i have a 02 excursion. i have tried to turn my hubs but they don't seem to move. i am unsure how to engage the system.
Should I put the hubs in the lock then put it in 4 wheels hi or low or the other way ....
Now from reading some of the forums it may sound like my locking hubs may be frozen and need replacing ....
Any good set of locking hubs and can i rebuild my sock ones for spares. its there a step by step on how to replace the locking hubs ....
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This is my first experience with auto tranny trouble so I'm a bit out of my depth. It started a few days ago. When you put it in gear and step on the gas, the engine revs, but no forward movement. If you keep giving it gas and rev it up, it will eventually grab and off you go. This happened around town after I took it to work last week when I went out for lunch.
When I drove it home, it slipped in and out several times in town, then by the time I got out of town (maybe 5 minutes driving) it evened out and didn't slip the rest of the way home (a 45 min drive). My assumption is that once it warmed up a bit that stopped the slipping. I checked the transmission fluid when I got back from lunch, and it was a little high. I drove it again today a week later and same thing only I didn't drive it long enough for it to warm up and stop slipping like it did the other day.
Other details: The truck is a 4x4, extended cab, v6 Ford Ranger with about 175k miles on it. I've had it about 1 1/2 years and its performed great up till now.
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My wife has a 2008 Eddie Bauer 4x4 explorer and when you are backing up or pulling forward with the wheel turned, it feels like the automatic 4wd wants to engage. The Ford dealership mechanic told me this is normal but it does not do it all the time. Is there anything I can look at to try and figure out why this does it sometimes or if this is even supposed to do this at all?
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My 2000 Subaru Outback (75,000 miles) runs well almost all of the time. Every so often, especially when the weather is cold and I have been making many short trips, the transmission will refuse to engage into any of the forward gears (Auto-Trans). It will do reverse, no trouble, but not the forward ones. It does not do this with any sort of regularity or consistency. I have had it checked by my mechanic and he said that although it did this it sounded fine and was not shifting roughly. Thinking it might be a fluid pressure problem, he put in fluid additive to soften the seals and this worked for about a week, then back to square one. I saw enough notes posted on other forums by other Subaru owners to know that this might be an issue with this year's model--maybe some sort of quirk that I hope can be fixed without a new trans.
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2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke, automatic tranny, Electric Locking Diff
When I engage the On the Fly 4WD switch the indicator panel says "shift to 4x4H in Progress" and everything seems fine but if I am not moving forward when I shift the 4WD doesn't engage. The engine revs up but nothing happens. When I release the accelerator the transfer case bangs like it is going to rip out of the truck. In reverse it is even worse. I am lucky that I didn't gun it or I could have done allot of potential damage. All my other Ford 4WD vehicles engage immediately from a full stopped position. This is quite of troublesome because if you have to shift when your stuck in the mud, your still stuck. If I shift while moving forward it works just fine.
My question is: Does this particular model (2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke with an automatic tranny) have to be moving forward in order for the 4WD to engage?
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i have a 1986 ford ranger with a bored out 2.9 v6 that is not getting spark sent to the spark plugs disrtibutor has been changed along with spark plug wires any clue what the problem is
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I have heard from a few people that it might be the computer that is messed up. Just replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, fuel filters. Pump turns on. Cranks and cranks but won't start. Took the intake cover off and tried starting it, all it did was back fire. Checked the firing order and everything is right. So im left with guessing at the computer and ignition??
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1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed
So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.
When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........
The problem now? Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.
Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Air Control Valve - Removed and cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.
Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (was told it's located on Pass. fender wall, but can't find it, according to the manual)
EGR Valve and sensor,
Throttle Position Sensor,
EVP sensor,
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic.
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1986 Ranger 2.3 inline 4
I just recently bought an 86 Ranger from a friend. It had recently stopped working and had no desire to fix it. So here I am. The truck will sit in park and rev all day long, once its in drive it idols fine and moves its self down the street. The problem occurs when I apply throttle. It begins to bog down and I cannot get past 20mph. I have replaced the fuel regulator and also I took the tank down and replaced the fuel pump. The fuel filter is two months old, and the throttle response sensor is two weeks old.
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My front diff is busted, and I mean bad.. I can barely even run the truck 5mph, and it's very loud. The diff casing is even busted. I want to just disable it to drive in 2wd. What's the easiest way to do it? It won't disable using the push button control.
Can I just remove all the locking stuff in the front wheels, so there's nothing for the axles to grab on, and manually turn the solenoid at the transfer case to shut off the front wheel axle?
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I have a 86 Ranger with the 2.3L fuel injected 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual transmission. I can drive it for hours on the highway but if I get caught in stop and go traffic, it stalls and won't restart for about 10 minutes. When trying to restart it acts as if it is fuel starved. Spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body does make it run for a second or two. I was getting a code 18 & 67 before I changed the ignition module, now I just get code 67 or 11. I have done the following:
-Changed both fuel pumps, tank and frame rail pump (did one at a time, no improvement)
-Changed all fuel filters (in line filter, fuel reservoir filter and tank filter)
-Changed ignition module on distributer
-Changed both relays that control fuel pumps
-Cleaned battery terminals and body ground connections.
-New gas tank fill cap
I'm at a loss now as to what to do. I have been checking the codes with my multi-meter. I do not have a OBD1 diagnostic tool.
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My pops has a 86 ranger with a 2.9. And what its been doing is, it will start up just fine then u give it a minute and itll start to run very rough like a bad miss fire, then if he revs it up for a bit. It will clear out and then run just fine until he starts it up again and it seems to do it more the colder it gets and it smells very rich. Iv checked the injectors and there fine, what other things could it be ? O2 sensors oorrr
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I have a 86 ranger 2.9 5 speed. A few days a go I replaced the front fuel filter and all seemed ok. Last night on my way home the truck quit and I had to have it towed home. Now I find both pumps don't seem to be working. What would make me loose both pumps??
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Looking for the wiring diagrams for 86 ranger fuel system. I replaced the fuel pump relay after testing and finding that it was bad, still not getting fuel. I want to test any fusible links or anything else that could have gone wrong before I throw another part at it.
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I've got an 86 ranger sport and I'm having trouble with the lights. The turn signals work, and ALL 4 bulbs in the back are new. The brake light fuse keeps blowing, and the fuse for the tail lights is good but they won't come on at all. I was told there was a direct short somewhere, does that sound about right? And is there a common place where they tend to short out?
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I have A 1986 ranger with a 2.9 v6. I am thinking of doing a diesel swap and I am wondering what engine and trans combos would work best for this. I was thinking 4bt but there are may other options that could work.
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