4Runner/SR5 :: 2000 Truck Start Stalling Out / Sputtering Along Then Pick Right Back Up
Mar 25, 2014
2000 4runner SR5. This problem has been going on for a while, it comes and goes. The truck will start stalling out, sputtering along, then pick right back up. It is like the engine is being choked for gas. It never totally fails, I just lose all engine power for a second or two, then it picks back up. Then, the check engine light will turn on.
I thought the light might be for a gas cap, so I checked that first. Unscrewed the gap and hear a very noticeable "whoosh" air noise, like air getting sucked into the gas tank. After I adjusted the gas cap, the truck starts working as normal, runs great. For a couple weeks or so. Then the same problem. And the same fix has always worked as well - the gas cap trick, thus far, has worked every time (about five times).
I took it to a mechanic and they said the codes are for the throttle and I need a new throttle body for $1500 freakin dollars. I don't doubt the throttle could probably use replacing, but I don't think that's is what is causing this issue. If the throttle was the problem, it doesn't seem like it would be a problem that comes and goes. And why does the gas cap fix work?
Things I have replaced in the few years - fuel filter about a year ago, air filter recently, evap, O2, cat, timing belt, water pump, gas cap (about a month ago). Needless to say, I got a lot of $ into it. Think it could be fuel pump?
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
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My Radiator fell inside the car I tried to pick it back up but its hooked on something in the bottom and I can move it. Not even sure how are why it would fall. is there some kinda of bracket that holds in place or a bolt?
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Truck is up in the back country and has quit. It has two factory gas tanks, I can't hear either of the fuel pumps will come on when you turn the switch on. The problem started as an intermittent fuel starvation issue. Truck would act like it ran out of gas then pick up and go again. Switched tanks back and forth but it got worse throughout the day and finally will not start at all. I have listened to both tanks when the ignition switch is turned on but can not hear the pump come on for either tank (switching the selected tank with the switch on the dash). We went through some bumpy terrain just before the problem started so I am thinking maybe a wire might have come loose or got broke somehow. I am asking for wiring schematic so I can check for voltage in the correct place going to the fuel pumps. Both tanks are full of gas so for now dropping either tank is not an option.
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I'm having some serious trouble with a 2000 4Runner with the 5FVZFE V-6 with 165,000mi. The engine is bogging down/ sputtering and dying on startup, won't drive over apx. 20-30mph, doesn't seem to want to shift up or down, and won't rev past 3000rpms, stopped or driving. I've been a mechanic for awhile and never seen this issue before. But here's the kicker... I'm in bfe Afghanistan, have almost no access to parts (if I do it takes quite awhile to get them and even the easy stuff is hard to find), no diagnostic comp, and only the tools in my toolbox, air compressor, and solvent tank.
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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I have a 2000 Mercury Villager with 6 cylinder engine and 117+000 miles. It stalled out on me after starting to sputter.I feels like a problem I had with a Toyota some years back. It had a distributor and the ignition module went south. But this is fuel injected. I could be ignition problem, fuel filter clogged, fuel pump problem, dirty injectors, grounding problem, or ? There was no check engine light, or any other warning light before the problem. I have done lots of car repair and maintenance and plan on fixing what I can short of a computer/ignition problem. Yes it does have gas.
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I have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
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My 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
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I have a 1999 f450 7.3 diesel that surges and will stall but will start right back up again and drive. It does this over and over but all ways gets back to the shop. The engine starts good when cold so glow plugs are working correctly. What I have done:
Fuel filter change, check electric fuel pump but have not replaced it. I have replace camshaft sensor.
What I have found d by inspection:
Throttle pedal has 2 electrical connections one for the IVS and one for the TPS. I have experience on the 7.3 IDI diesels but very little on the newer injection system.
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I have a Toyota 4 runner model year 2007 that stalls after it hasn't been used for a few days. I live in the city, so i'm doing short drives. The first time it happen i hadn't used the car in 3 days, and today was the second time, i hadn't used the car in about a week. I brought it to the dealership, after the first time, but they couldn't find anything wrong with the car.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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2003 Cavalier auto 116K miles - Car is sputtering and stalling at stoplights with a/c on. What can I check?
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I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 6 cylinder with 188,000 miles. I love my car, it's treated me well over the years. About 2 months ago it started stalling at stop lights, etc. Basically, any time I came to a stop and it was idling while in gear. I start it right back up and when my foot's on the gas, it doesn't stall. After 10 times or so I learned that if I took it out of gear the RPMs went up a little and it didn't stall. About 2 weeks later the "check engine" like went on so I figured, now it's time to take it somewhere. So I took it to a mechanic that I've been to before and trusted (here in San Francisco) and he said, "oh.. it's probably just an idle adjustment" so I think, great, no big deal.
After a few days he said wasn't the idle and that after testing he found that all 6 cylinders were randomly misfiring. So he needed to change the spark plugs cause they were down to a bare nub. I figured, ok, it's about time anyway. He said it could also be the ignitor?, he didn't sound 100% positive, but told me there's probably something wrong with it since it's pretty old too and that's all he could think of. So he changed all 6 spark plugs and the ingintor and the engine light was still on. It was stalling less frequently, but still randomly stalling.
He then said he was going to have his Toyota specialist friend look at it. His friend couldn't figure out what was wrong either. Then he sent to to the Toyota dealer, they checked everything they could think of, but couldn't diagnose the real cause either. Apparently they even checked the "Dynamic Balancer"? I'm not even sure my car has one of those. They might as well have told me it needed a new agonculator (totally made up word) for all I knew. So they had my car for 3 weeks and finally I said, enough is enough, these guys can't figure it out. After 3 weeks of hearing how much money they spent on other people to figure out it, I finally said, let's stop the bleeding. The car still runs and doesn't stall that much. The last thing they tried was 2 series of a fuel injection flush (decarbonize)? So they did that with not a whole lot of improvement. They also managed to run all the gas out of my car and by the time I picked it up, the fuel light was on and I took it immediately to a gas station. No joke, they burned about 1/2 tank of gas and didn't refill it.
After 3 weeks and $1000, they come up with "we don't know what's wrong, but use Premium gas and it might fix itself". In the end they told me they were down to only one misfire, cylider #4. Also, the "check engine" light is still on. Since I've gotten it back it hasn't stalled, so there's an improvement. But I'm no closer to figuring out what's wrong that's keeping the check engine light on. Needless to say, I'm not taking it back to these guys.
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I have this issue from time to time where I will be driving and my car will randomly stall itself out and shut off. what could be the issue?
2nd I have an issue while idling, where if I am idling I feel a slight vibration like it is about to stall.
3rdly How big of an offset can i have on rear wheels that are 18x8?
The aforementioned questions are regarding a 2004 GLI.
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
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Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
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I own a 2002 Ford Explorer and I need diagnosing a problem. Whenever I start to pick up speed it starts to buckle and I always have the 4x4 on auto and it still buckles.
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