4Runner/GX470 :: Low RPMs In 5th Gear / Won't Rev Over 2500
Mar 24, 2011
The son inlaw just bought a 86 4runner. It's been beat pretty good but I know Toys are good for it. My question is, it rev's just fine in every gear but 5th. Going down a flat highway and in 5th it won't rev over 2500 no matter how much gas ya give it. It has a 22re and 31-9.50's under it. My daughter had a 86 p/u with a 22r (I believe) and 33-10.50's and it had no problem hitting 90. Is there a limiter on these things? Thought i'd ask before chasing vac lines.
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My 1992 3.0L V6 is showing it's age. My 4Runner problem is getting worse by the day. It started the day after I bought it. My truck won't accelerate with the RPMs over 3k. My truck smells like fuel. The fuel filter is 3k miles new. I can't get it to start like it used to now. It will take me at least three cranks for it to turn over. The battery is new too... less than one year old.
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My transmission up shifts fine for the first couple of gears, but as I get to the last gear (I think it is the last gear), my transmission takes a while to up-shift. I am at 3000 RPM before it up-shifts then goes down to 2000 RPM on the next gear. Is there any fix that will not require a new tranny?
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe that for the last week or so has been slipping/jerking at about 2500rpms (2nd and 3rd gear). This only happens after the car has been warmed up and running for 20 minutes or so. I have put it into manual and it does not do this, only when in auto.
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I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
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on a 93' 4 runner that will not engage 4 wheel drive. The 4 wheel manual shifter works fine, and the linkage underneath looks fine; however, the indicator does not light up - and it definately only has rear wheel drive.
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I have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
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we have just pulled out head resurfaced and put engine back together now it won't start tried the timing and checked for fuel but wont start the only way it starts now is with brake fluid in the intake but that only fires up and won't stay idle.
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I've noticed that my brakes are very sensitive lately. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the differential oil that got on the rear pads when the rear seals blew out about 3 months ago. The shop cleaned them off but they still looked oily to me. I'm also wondering if it is parking brake related as one or both of the bellcranks are frozen (there's no cable sag, but one of the stops has a gap and the parking brake doesn't work). Or is it brake fluid related. I am years past the point of needing to replace the brake fluid and bleeding out the old fluid.
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The transmission went out on my toyota 4 runner ...
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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I have a 91 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0L that has been a great truck (like all of them?) until just recently.
Symptoms are bogging at roughly 25 mph or 2500 rpm in second to third gear. It will also sometimes not take off from a stop at a slight incline. By hammering the throttle down and forcing a downshift, the truck will rev up and then accelerate, but then again sometimes bog down until the same "forced shift" is done.
This seems prevalent when the engine is hot, however, that may be coincidental with the high temps here in So Texas lately. The truck does seem to run fine for a while after starting it. Mechanic hasn't isolated anything.
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'91 4Runner, V6, 3.0, 113K miles. It has a nasty bog on takeoff, doesn't seem to clear out until over 35 mph on flat ground, and you can forget about starting from a dead stop going up any sort of incline.
It still has the stock plugs, so I figured those were up for changing anyway. While I was at the shop, I went ahead and picked up a new air and fuel filter. I decided to try one thing at a time, started with plugs, got em in fine, took it around the block, wouldn't idle, sputtered pretty bad, stalled at every stop sign.
I figured that the fuel filter was in fact clogged, and maybe the new plugs were causing it to starve for gas? Crawled under the car, and the cat converter was cherry red hot. I put in maybe half a mile, so could that be my problem? It has begun to rain, so I have not installed the fuel filter. I've heard some stuff about sensors going bad, namely the CTS, but that is getting a bit in over my head.
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I have a craigslist nightmare vehicle in the shop today, a 98' Toyota 4runner Limited V6. Runs and drives fine, but it's got a heck of a growl in the front end over 15mph. We removed the diff and found that when it was turned it had some vibration and a ton of noise. Disassembled it and found it to be full of metal flake, and it appears the spider gears are worn and causing a good lot of the noise. The bearings seem to be alright, but I'm planning to replace those anyway while we're inside, due to the amount of metal in the fluid.
My questions are:
1. Is this a common failure?
2. Where can I purchase spider gears? Most places don't seem to list them.
3. Is there a rebuild kit that includes bearings and spider gears so I can make one part order and run with it?
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My '98 V6 4-Runner idles roughly when AC compressor loads up. Stops when compressor unloads. Vacuum leak?
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We just bought a 1995 Toyota 4Runner that has 195,000 miles. We bought it for a 4wd vehicle to take over the passes and go hunting, but we have been driving it regularly because we like it. I read in the manual that under heavy idling conditions the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles but it does not say for regular driving. The previous owners had work done on the timing belt at 96,000 miles.
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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I've got a 99 4runner with the 3.4 engine and it's gotten to where it wants to stall in traffic. It starts right back up. Runs fine on the interstate. No check engine light. I've changed the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, and cleaned the MAF sensor. Not sure what to do next.
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My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
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My check engine light comes on in the morning (P0335 - crankshaft sensor) and will sometimes go out in the afternoon (after driving for a bit. I replaced the crankshaft sensor (figured what the heck) but didn't cure the code. Puzzles me with the on and off check engine light.
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I just did my winter hard top for the season, hooked up the plug for the rear heater and it works but it's cranking out cold air even when I am up to running temperature. The front heater is blowing lots of heat. Am I missing something? Is there something other than the plug I need to hook up?
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