My check engine light comes on in the morning (P0335 - crankshaft sensor) and will sometimes go out in the afternoon (after driving for a bit. I replaced the crankshaft sensor (figured what the heck) but didn't cure the code. Puzzles me with the on and off check engine light.
View 2 RepliesI got a 2004 Nissan Sentra and a p0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor) popped up on it after the car stalled out sitting in a parked position for 2 mins. The car also stalled out again 20 mins later while I was driving. When the car stalled out in park I had to wait 3 mins because it was just cranking over, when it stalled while driving it started 30 secs later with 1st turn of the key. This car has been having start up issues after the car been driven and sat for 40 mins but when the key is cycled 3 times it starts up fine. I also was going to eventually make a post of this, the car been making clicking or rattling noise at times, off and on mainly when the car been warmed up and at idle more noticeably heard , hear the noise better from inside the car, forgot what side of the engine where the noise is coming from. Also I did a search in the past about recalls on this car and there was a recall on the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR on the 2.5L engines, the car I have is a 1.8L. Stated on this link 3rd one down. [URL] ... . Does it sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to get replaced?
View 19 RepliesMy wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
View 19 Replies2004 Toyota Forerunner, SR5 with V-6. The service engine light is on. It was diagnosed at one of the local chain parts stores as having a defective
O-2 sensor. I learned this vehicle has two sensors. The first is before the catalytic converter (the engine side). The second is after the catalytic converter (tail pipe side).
When I was under the car I saw the front sensor had evidence of minor leakage around the threads. It appeared to be a fluid stain. ??? Is there a way to determine which sensor is defective and needs replacement.
Like the title says...'02 Accent,1.6 dohc.Won't start.No spark.
Pulled code p0335-crank sensor circuit A.
Replaced sensor...still nothing.
Is there something else that commonly goes with these symptoms?...or did I just get a bum sensor?
Also,once I try starting or turn key on,I hear a buzzing coming from throttle body area for about 10 seconds even after key is off. Not sure if its related or normal.
Trouble Code 0505: Vehicle speed idle speed control auxiliary inputs
What would be the auxiliary inputs?
My car is an AUG 1.8t with 153K miles and it has been running great since the timing belt change last summer. It died while driving it earlier today. I pulled a P0322 code which looks like it's for a crankshaft position sensor. I cleared the code.
After the car sat for about an hour I was able to restart the car and drive the car two miles back to my house. On the way back I felt the engine shudder and got an Engine Workshop warning, no CEL. I scanned anyway and found a pending P0322. Once I shut the car off it cranks but will not start.
recently started getting a 336 code indicating crankshaft positioning sensor out of limits.
removed the 7x sensor but it seems ok and the car does start ok. checked the ECM input of the 24x sensor and I never get anything but straight 11.2 volts when crank turns. checked at the 24x connector and get the same. (green lead on B connection).
problem I have is getting to the sensor. The crank pulley bolt just will not let go! I've tried impact gun set to max,(typical DIY type gun, not the best) and tried a breaker bar with hammer. how to get the crankshaft balancer off.
So I started up my 12v VR6 the other morning and it sounded like a Subie. Threw the awful code P1340: cam/crankshaft sensor out of sequence, and took it to the shop. I'm being charged $1900 for servicing the timing chains, only. Doesn't include water pump and clutch like every other shop does. Reason for this is because in Montana, no one works on these cars. So I this is my only route. I had to choose this small euro repair shop or the VW dealer.
But, they just recently called me and told me I need to get the timing gears changed or whatever? They want to charge an additional $600 or so to do that. Are these gears a real problem? or are they just trying to F me. I mean, $1900 should make this car flawless as it is so I feel that they are attempting to rip me off even more.
33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
View 2 Replieson a 93' 4 runner that will not engage 4 wheel drive. The 4 wheel manual shifter works fine, and the linkage underneath looks fine; however, the indicator does not light up - and it definately only has rear wheel drive.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
View 3 Replieswe have just pulled out head resurfaced and put engine back together now it won't start tried the timing and checked for fuel but wont start the only way it starts now is with brake fluid in the intake but that only fires up and won't stay idle.
View 3 RepliesI've noticed that my brakes are very sensitive lately. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the differential oil that got on the rear pads when the rear seals blew out about 3 months ago. The shop cleaned them off but they still looked oily to me. I'm also wondering if it is parking brake related as one or both of the bellcranks are frozen (there's no cable sag, but one of the stops has a gap and the parking brake doesn't work). Or is it brake fluid related. I am years past the point of needing to replace the brake fluid and bleeding out the old fluid.
View 5 RepliesThe transmission went out on my toyota 4 runner ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
The son inlaw just bought a 86 4runner. It's been beat pretty good but I know Toys are good for it. My question is, it rev's just fine in every gear but 5th. Going down a flat highway and in 5th it won't rev over 2500 no matter how much gas ya give it. It has a 22re and 31-9.50's under it. My daughter had a 86 p/u with a 22r (I believe) and 33-10.50's and it had no problem hitting 90. Is there a limiter on these things? Thought i'd ask before chasing vac lines.
View 2 RepliesI have a 91 4Runner SR5 V6 3.0L that has been a great truck (like all of them?) until just recently.
Symptoms are bogging at roughly 25 mph or 2500 rpm in second to third gear. It will also sometimes not take off from a stop at a slight incline. By hammering the throttle down and forcing a downshift, the truck will rev up and then accelerate, but then again sometimes bog down until the same "forced shift" is done.
This seems prevalent when the engine is hot, however, that may be coincidental with the high temps here in So Texas lately. The truck does seem to run fine for a while after starting it. Mechanic hasn't isolated anything.
'91 4Runner, V6, 3.0, 113K miles. It has a nasty bog on takeoff, doesn't seem to clear out until over 35 mph on flat ground, and you can forget about starting from a dead stop going up any sort of incline.
It still has the stock plugs, so I figured those were up for changing anyway. While I was at the shop, I went ahead and picked up a new air and fuel filter. I decided to try one thing at a time, started with plugs, got em in fine, took it around the block, wouldn't idle, sputtered pretty bad, stalled at every stop sign.
I figured that the fuel filter was in fact clogged, and maybe the new plugs were causing it to starve for gas? Crawled under the car, and the cat converter was cherry red hot. I put in maybe half a mile, so could that be my problem? It has begun to rain, so I have not installed the fuel filter. I've heard some stuff about sensors going bad, namely the CTS, but that is getting a bit in over my head.