4Runner/GX470 :: 1998 Toyota - Check Engine Light Flashing When Driving Past 70 MPH
Feb 17, 2009
Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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I have a 98 4 Runner the fuel light has come on, the fuel gauge itself is working fine. The low fuel indicator light stays on even on a full tank, would like to know if there is a reset button or is it attached to the fuel sending unit or is it a separate unit....
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1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. 355,000 miles. No problems with it until now. About 2 weeks ago Check Engine Light came on. I replaced spark plugs (they were due), checked coils and fuel injectors and still have Check Engine Light on with code P0301 (Cylinder #1 missfire).So compression tests were done and cylinder #1 had 120 psi and others 170. I suppose 120 isn't terribly bad but is significantly lower than 170.
Question 1: If I reset the check engine light (turn it off), do you think it will pass California smog test?
Question 2: What do I need to cure the problem? Engine rebuild? JDM? or retire the truck?
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I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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2004 Toyota Forerunner, SR5 with V-6. The service engine light is on. It was diagnosed at one of the local chain parts stores as having a defective
O-2 sensor. I learned this vehicle has two sensors. The first is before the catalytic converter (the engine side). The second is after the catalytic converter (tail pipe side).
When I was under the car I saw the front sensor had evidence of minor leakage around the threads. It appeared to be a fluid stain. ??? Is there a way to determine which sensor is defective and needs replacement.
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I have a craigslist nightmare vehicle in the shop today, a 98' Toyota 4runner Limited V6. Runs and drives fine, but it's got a heck of a growl in the front end over 15mph. We removed the diff and found that when it was turned it had some vibration and a ton of noise. Disassembled it and found it to be full of metal flake, and it appears the spider gears are worn and causing a good lot of the noise. The bearings seem to be alright, but I'm planning to replace those anyway while we're inside, due to the amount of metal in the fluid.
My questions are:
1. Is this a common failure?
2. Where can I purchase spider gears? Most places don't seem to list them.
3. Is there a rebuild kit that includes bearings and spider gears so I can make one part order and run with it?
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My 4Runner died in the road yesterday. It has fire but lacking fuel to run. I took line off of fuel filter and have no flow with the key on, I do have flow and pressure when I turn key to start. Should the fuel pump run with just key on. Does it need to be running to keep fuel pump on. It tries to start but is starving for fuel.
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I started noticing a vibration at 65-70mph that gets worse if I go faster. I got the tires balanced and rotated but vibration is still there. Wondering if it could be the trans or a U-joint.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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Trouble Code 0505: Vehicle speed idle speed control auxiliary inputs
What would be the auxiliary inputs?
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I have a 93 4Runner, and it won't start all it will do is turn over, But won't start, my dad has tried everything we could think of It has gas, an new battery and new battery cables...
What is the location of the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, AND THE MAIN COMPUTER...
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Recently the hatch on our 98 Toyota 4Runner wouldn't "click" closed- my husband had to secure it w/ a rope for the ride home. Took it to the dealer the next day where they "degunked" it. Now it latches, but the open door/hatch indicator dash light is constantly on - the repair tech said he didn't know why or what to do about it! My concern is that the battery is being drained.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
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I have a 2000 toyota 4runner and the key will not turn in the ignition.We bought a new key from the dealer and also tried wd-40 in the ignition, still no luck.
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I just did my winter hard top for the season, hooked up the plug for the rear heater and it works but it's cranking out cold air even when I am up to running temperature. The front heater is blowing lots of heat. Am I missing something? Is there something other than the plug I need to hook up?
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I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
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About two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
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1999 Toyota 4 Runner's keyless entry (with new battery) will not unlock the car. The "lock" button works fine. Using the manual key for entry triggers the theft alarm. The only way to stop the alarm is by using the unlock button on the remote, which as stated, is not working. It does not make sense to me that I cannot use the standard key to enter the vehicle. In essence, I am locked out of my own car.
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I have a 2001 toyota 4runner 6-cylinder 3.4L engine with about 197xxx miles on it. I just took it in for an oil change a few weeks ago and when they checked all the other fluids in the truck they said the coolant seems sludgy and dark. Also the check engine light and vsc trac and vsc off lights came on, a week or so before the oil change. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do almost all my work myself with the limit of the tools i have, but i can't seem to figure out what is causing this.
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