I have a 98 4 Runner the fuel light has come on, the fuel gauge itself is working fine. The low fuel indicator light stays on even on a full tank, would like to know if there is a reset button or is it attached to the fuel sending unit or is it a separate unit....
View 1 RepliesRecently the hatch on our 98 Toyota 4Runner wouldn't "click" closed- my husband had to secure it w/ a rope for the ride home. Took it to the dealer the next day where they "degunked" it. Now it latches, but the open door/hatch indicator dash light is constantly on - the repair tech said he didn't know why or what to do about it! My concern is that the battery is being drained.
View 5 RepliesOk so the fuel gauge says empty and the low fuel light stays on even though the tank is full. I'm assuming its either the gauges or the sending unit. If it is the sending unit where is it located on this car?
View 4 RepliesMy 4Runner died in the road yesterday. It has fire but lacking fuel to run. I took line off of fuel filter and have no flow with the key on, I do have flow and pressure when I turn key to start. Should the fuel pump run with just key on. Does it need to be running to keep fuel pump on. It tries to start but is starving for fuel.
View 1 RepliesSome background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
View 2 RepliesI have a craigslist nightmare vehicle in the shop today, a 98' Toyota 4runner Limited V6. Runs and drives fine, but it's got a heck of a growl in the front end over 15mph. We removed the diff and found that when it was turned it had some vibration and a ton of noise. Disassembled it and found it to be full of metal flake, and it appears the spider gears are worn and causing a good lot of the noise. The bearings seem to be alright, but I'm planning to replace those anyway while we're inside, due to the amount of metal in the fluid.
My questions are:
1. Is this a common failure?
2. Where can I purchase spider gears? Most places don't seem to list them.
3. Is there a rebuild kit that includes bearings and spider gears so I can make one part order and run with it?
I started noticing a vibration at 65-70mph that gets worse if I go faster. I got the tires balanced and rotated but vibration is still there. Wondering if it could be the trans or a U-joint.
View 3 RepliesTrouble Code 0505: Vehicle speed idle speed control auxiliary inputs
What would be the auxiliary inputs?
So yesterday I was driving home from work.. I know my tank was 3/4 full. All of a sudden, my low fuel light came on and my gas gauge needle went to empty.
The needle sits at E, but it still says about 20 miles till empty on the MFD. When I left the house this morning, it said 5miles till empty.. by the time I got to work, it said 20. Kinda odd..
I will hook up the vagcom when I get home tonight, any area I should scan for? or just a complete scan? There is no CEL error on the dash though. What I could look at to fix this?
I have a 2012 f250 6.2L gas that the check engine light, low fuel light and the fuel gauge says it's empty. The truck has a full tank of gas. I am in camp for another 2 weeks and my girlfriend is driving the truck. I am thinking a blown fuse or disconnect the battery to reset the computer could solve it. Hoping it's something I can instruct her to do on her own over the phone.
View 13 RepliesMy 1992 3.0L V6 is showing it's age. My 4Runner problem is getting worse by the day. It started the day after I bought it. My truck won't accelerate with the RPMs over 3k. My truck smells like fuel. The fuel filter is 3k miles new. I can't get it to start like it used to now. It will take me at least three cranks for it to turn over. The battery is new too... less than one year old.
View 6 RepliesAs I say in my first thread my 2000 4 runner don't start after I change the spark plugs. I don't get any fuel pressure from the fuel pump.
View 2 Replies2004 Toyota Forerunner, SR5 with V-6. The service engine light is on. It was diagnosed at one of the local chain parts stores as having a defective
O-2 sensor. I learned this vehicle has two sensors. The first is before the catalytic converter (the engine side). The second is after the catalytic converter (tail pipe side).
When I was under the car I saw the front sensor had evidence of minor leakage around the threads. It appeared to be a fluid stain. ??? Is there a way to determine which sensor is defective and needs replacement.
WHen i open the back hatch, the light does not come on when the switch is on door but if i flip it to on it works fine...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 V8 4WD SR5. It has 109K miles and I replaced the pads and rotors and front calipers about 8-10K ago. Since then it has been doing fine in the brake department.
This morning, the brake warning light (the parking brake light) came on about half illuminated. The parking brake is not on and when I press the parking brake it illuminates fully. The other warning lights associated with the brake system (VSC TRAC OFF, VSC OFF, and ABS) are not illuminated. The fluid is at the max line, if not a bit above.
Given this info, I don't believe there is a major problem or else it would actually be fully illuminated and the other lights would be on as a result of the brake light. I am just curious what is causing this issue and how to fix it.
This has happened to me 4 times now in the 7 years I've owned my car. It happened so infrequently I thought the problem was the pump's sensor was not working properly. However now it's happened twice the last two times I've tried to fill up. On Friday my son was supposed to fill the car and could only get 1 gallon in and the fuel pump kept clicking off as if the car is full of gas. The bars never moved and I thought the problem was the pump. Then today, Sunday 2 days later, I decided to go ahead and fill it up. I have 250 miles to drive and want a full tank of gas. The tank shows 3 bars. I started fueling and it clicked off at 1 gallon. So I pulled the pump trigger again and tried to force more fuel in and it stopped and wouldn't add anymore than 1.7 gallons.
So now I have a long drive tomorrow and I can't figure out why the pump is clicking off as if the tank is full yet it can't be because I drove 250 miles since my son tried to put gas in and it's showing I have 3 bars.
I generally average north of 50mpg on a regular basis. Yet, my cruising range is always somewhere around 300~ miles for a full tank.
View 5 RepliesI am the original owner of a 337 with 292,800 miles, that's correct. I recently have had a fuel cutoff problem when the fuel tank gets less than 1/3 full. So I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter thinking that would solve the problem. It still stalls with a low fuel tank. It runs fine with more than a 1/2 tank. I have a Vagcom and no issues there.
Mystified at what could be the cause. Possibly fuel pressure regulator or vacuum line, is there a check valve somewhere in the fuel system that could be sticking, or what about an issue with the EVAP system? By the way this car still looks great, has been to the track many times as well as autocrossed, and still has the original clutch. Way to go VW. My race car is a spec miata.
Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
So I'm now on my second week with this 2012 Prius and still trying to learn how to roll in it.
I filled up my very first tank yesterday (dealer gave me a full tank when I bought it) and the miles remaining display said 424 miles after I filled up. Does it display 424 on all Priuses by default?
The first tank gave me right around that many miles before I filled up - the miles remaining display said I had 9 miles left so I got too scared to see if I could go farther. But when I filled it, I only filled just under 10 gallons - does that mean there's more miles for me to drive, despite that remaining miles meter?
And...am I getting pretty bad fuel economy?