4Runner/GX470 :: 1997 - Clunk In Rear Over Bumps Or On Hitting Pothole
Mar 30, 2011
I've had this problem for years but is now getting worse. It used to only happen when it was really cold out, subzero, but is now happening as we now approach 50 degrees out. If I hit a pothole or pop over a small curb, I get a clunk in the rear. I replaced the shocks about 3 months ago which seemed to work briefly but the problem is back and is worse than ever.
I have the original springs and it looks like the recall was done by the previous owner (rubber bumber stops installed).
230k miles. Do I need new springs?
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I brought my 4runner in to fix a rear axle seal and to see if they could isolate a clunking noise I've been having. They said the clunking was coming from the rear differential (I believe him as that's what I heard, while driving or even just putting it into gear). They have yet to call me back, but any guesses here as to whether it is a bearing (my guess, as it is most pronounced on a bumpy road) or a cracked gear or something else. I've been driving with a clunk for about a week, but have various clunk problems for the last 80k miles ....
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I have 46k on stock suspension and lately I have been hearing a clunking sound when hitting bumps. It sounds like it is coming from the strut mounts and the ride has been harsh compared to when the car was newer. There isn't any bounciness and I thing the shocks/struts are fine. I push down on the body and no bounciness when I let up. Could my strut mounts be shot already?
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I've noticed that my brakes are very sensitive lately. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the differential oil that got on the rear pads when the rear seals blew out about 3 months ago. The shop cleaned them off but they still looked oily to me. I'm also wondering if it is parking brake related as one or both of the bellcranks are frozen (there's no cable sag, but one of the stops has a gap and the parking brake doesn't work). Or is it brake fluid related. I am years past the point of needing to replace the brake fluid and bleeding out the old fluid.
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I just did my winter hard top for the season, hooked up the plug for the rear heater and it works but it's cranking out cold air even when I am up to running temperature. The front heater is blowing lots of heat. Am I missing something? Is there something other than the plug I need to hook up?
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This 96 4 runner's rear wiper and rear window has stopped working. I can only assume they stopped at the same time as the truck doesn't belong to me, I was just asked to see what it would take to fix it. I've looked it over and see no fuse and don't really have a clue where to start looking for the culprit of the problem.
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Starts humming at around 25mph and gets louder and higher pitched as I accelerate. Noise stops when I turn right so I assumed it was the right rear wheel bearing. I replaced the hub bearing and the noise continues. Also had the tires checked out and they seem to be fine.
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While bucking a 30+ headwind on the highway @ 70mph, hit a pothole, got a check engine light and engine died. Traffic heavy and dangerous so I stayed on electric power longer than I should have to get off onto a service road. Determined my 12 volt battery terminals were very loose from vibration, I'm assuming. But now the car will not stay running when started. SOC shows 2.5%, main battery 0 volts.
Towed home, recharged main battery to 7.3vdc per module, yet car still shows same SOC and will not stay running. Currently, disconnected 12 volt battery overnight to see if things look better after system sits disconnected for several hours.
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I have a 2011 Elantra GLS automatic and have experienced rear end hop when hitting bumps, potholes, manhole covers, etc. It is quite disturbing to feel the read end slide sideways especially at highway speeds. Today I noticed similar feeling when I drove on snow covered roads for first time. I took it in to dealer who agreed it was a concern when he drove it, but couldn't find anything out of spec.
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I have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
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I have the stock 16-inch Bioline wheels on my '10 JSW TDI. After hitting a big pothole on the Pennsylvania turnpike (stupid of me, I know), the car started to shake noticeably above 55 m.p.h. Tire pressure was normal. When I replaced the wheel (right front) with the spare, the shaking went away.
Did I damage the wheel? Normally, I would attribute shaking to the alignment being off, but---again---the car doesn't shake when the spare is on. I would have thought it would take more to damage a 16-inch alloy wheel, but what do I know?
I'm trying to decide whether I should pay to have the alignment checked or start scouring the classifieds for a replacement wheel already.
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It's my first time experiencing a flat tire after hitting a pothole. I was on the Long Island Expressway in Queens, NY on Saturday evening after watching The Amazing Spiderman 2. It was about 12:15 AM, and there were still a lot of cars on the road. (and they were fast!!!) I wasn't aware and hit a pothole, and I immediately heard a loud "BANG" noise from the left wheel. I switched on the tire pressure indicator on the dashboard right afterward, and the air pressure started decreasing. Luckily, I was able to find an exit early and pulled over on local road to check the car. I swapped out the flat tire with the spare and went home safely with my girlfriend.
* I was surprised that the Bridgestone Turanza was able to hold up with 0 air pressure, without letting the rim rolling and touching on the ground.
* Rim is fine - no bent, no scratch
* Took the wheel to a tire shop and discovered that there must be some sharp edges in the pothole, which teared the side of the tire for about 2 inches (right underneath the tip of the rim). Total replacement with installation - $290. Shop ordered a brand new tire (same model) and I will return on Monday to get the tire fixed.
1) How do I check whether the suspension is okay?
2) The tire pressure indicator on the gauge shows nothing now - all 4 wheels. I'm not sure what's going on. I still have the spare wheel on, so I'm not sure whether this is causing the issue.
3) Where is the tire pressure sensor located? When I return to the tire shop on Monday, will the tire guy know how to swap out the bad tire with the new one without messing up with the tire pressure sensor in there?
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I hit a pothole on I 55 going about 70 mph and the ABS/tire pressure lights went on. My gut feeling is that this is not serious, as the car is 14 years old (131,000 miles) and runs well. Figure it's just a sensor or connection issue or something like that. Is there a way that I can test to see if my ABS has stopped working without going to a mechanic? The tire pressure light comes on now and then at high speeds and usually means nothing.
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I would describe the noise as a low rattle/knocking when i hit bumps(or the second after). i thought it might be my spare tire knocking around in its trunk well under the carpet. I actually removed it and drove around to check, but it was not the issue. I had a mechanic look at wheels/suspension because of this noise, he told me the rear passenger side sway bar link needed to be replaced. I personally ended up doing the work and replaced the right and left rear sway bar links however the noise persists.
while the rear was jacked up i tried wobbling the wheels with my hands to check for play but found nothing in any direction. The mechanic seemed to think everything else looked ok.
I only notice it at low speeds like driving around a neighborhood. The big bumps it either isnt happening or the noise is drowned out by the general sound of hitting larger bumps. But over mildly bump sections such as a bad asphalt patch chop it can be very noticeable.
Its not very consistent, its hard to predict when ill hear it and its almost like its during when my suspension settles after hitting the bump that its heard.
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I drive a 2011 f-150 5.0. I hit a crater-sized pothole out on a dirt road and the check battery light came on. The truck hesitates slightly when i put on the gas. I already check the voltage on the battery 13v off 15 on and I took off the Postive cable and the truck still ran. What could be causing the issue.
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It's now been just about 2 weeks with the new car! but I've noticed a few little things that I'll take it in for before the warranty runs out...one of them is a noticeable dull clunk in the right rear...it also hear it when i go over small the medium sized bumps on the left side...sway bar link? over big bumps i don't seem to hear it...
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I recently bought a CPO 2007 GX 470 with 110k miles. At no charge dealer made repairs re the Bulletin about clunk in rear when I slowly drive over speed bumps. Had all front and rear shocks raced with OEM shocks, and four new Michellin MS2 tires installed. Rear end still feels like is is bottoming out sometimes during regular local and freeway driving when going over different times of road bumps.
My 'i89 a Dodge Ramdharger ( only car I ever bought brand new off the lot ) with 174k miles and old shocks and original springs drives better over bumps and speed bumps than the GX. One Lexus dealer said the reason is because the rear air bags ( that are not leaking )do not fill up fast enough when going move bumps and that can cause the bottoming out feeling. My mechanic is going to check it over again. What could be causing the bottoming out feeling?
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So I know the 2013 GS (or many GS in general) have had complaints of squeaks and rattles. My GS has a couple but are very minor and only occasional.
I do have one noise that seems unusual though. When I am driving and drive over moderate bumps in the road, I hear a muffled clunk or thunk type of noise only from the rear passenger area and never anywhere else.
My car is a stock CPO 2013 F sport and not lowered or anything. Stock rims and tires. The shock does not seem to be leaking.
The noise happens regardless of if I am in regular or sport+ modes. Was going to mention it to the dealer at my next oil change and door trim replacement appointment I need to make Ina couple months.
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My 2007 camry makes a clunk noise when I drive over a pothole on the passanger side of the car at low speeds. The noise comes from the rear passenger wheel area (which I tested with an empty trunk).
I took it to sears and they want to replacing the rear sway bar links and bushings for about $420. It seems like an easy job, so I took the car home and yanked on a bunch of suspension parts. The wheel doesn't have any play, the sway bar end links rotate slightly as you would expect a ball joint to rotate (towards to bumper or towards the hood).
The only play I could find is in sway bar itself, it moves left to right (driver side to passenger side) a little. In the picture below, there is a gap between the silver collar and the bushings. Is it possible that the bushings I have are too thin? Should they be tight against the silver collar to prevent sway bar movement?
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I have a 2005 king ranch and have a clunk coming from the back over bumps/heaves in the road. It doesn't happen all the time but often enough. I just replaced the shocks, that worked a little but didn't solve the problem. Now thinking rear sway bar end links? Anything I can check/inspect?
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I have a 92 4runner with v6 5speed Manual tranny it has the A.D.D hubs ,when I put it in 4wd its not going into 4wd the 4wd indicator in dash is not coming on ,that could be a bad bulb cause it doesn't come on when you turn key on.The transfer case is working all right .Its something in the front end that's not engaging .I noticed on the front diff. there is some kind of solenoid there with vacuum hoses and a electrical connection .Does this have anything to do with it not locking into 4wd?
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