300m - Leaks - Radiators :: 2000 - Coolant Boiling In Reservoir Tank
Feb 25, 2015
2000 Chrysler 300M with 142K miles. Was a very reliable car until recently.
Problem began with boiling coolant in the reservoir tank. Then began to lose coolant at a high rate. I tried stop leak products and replaced the coolant frequently for a couple months. Some of it kind of worked, but the problem always returned. The car drives fine for about 10 highway miles then begins to steam out from under the hood on the passenger side. It gets about half way up the temp gauge, but does not really overheat. I usually stop when it steams out, let it cool, replace the antifreeze, then do it all over again. I've also tried a bunch of other things too, e.g., radiator flush. None of it worked.
The mechanic wants to replace the radiator. Says the system does not have pressure so there's no real way to determine if there are leaks in the engine. But he does know that the radiator is no good. I'm okay to replace radiator, but don't want to do it just to find out ten minutes later that I have a blown head gasket, which I would opt not to fix. I have read the tell tale signs of a blown head gasket, such as coolant in the oil, but there is none. My exhaust is white, but it's 5 degrees outside and it doesn't look whiter. I have seen some coolant on the ground at times.
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Long story short, I got a 2001.5 1.8t M5 Passat with 63k miles 2 weeks ago.
This weekend I was driving around and pulled into the driveway and noticed the coolant was boiling in the coolant reservoir. It also looked like there was some oil in the reservoir. Take it to the shop, turns out that the plastic impeller on the water pump broke at 64k miles. This is wierd because the car never actually overheated. The mechanic doesn't think that the head gasket is blown or i have a cracked/warped head because the car still runs fine. He suggests I replace the water pump, timing belt, coolant reservoir, thermostat and obviously flush the coolant. I go ahead with the repair since its almost time for the TB anyway.
After bending over and taking it from the shop on a timing belt and water pump repair, I think I am all good. Today I open everything up after a few days of driving around just to check up on stuff. I open the coolant reservoir and there is telltale signs of oil in the coolant. Now i think this was an issue before the water pump went. Searching the archives I see that the oil cooler is a common failure. This could have also contributed to the failure of the water pump and maybe the thermostat, I don't know.
So instead of bending over for the mechanic for a second time in a week , I think I'm going to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system again and change the oil myself. Poked around looking at the oil cooler and it seems as if there is the slightest sign of an oil leak on the outside, which could mean there is a leak inside. I don't have compressed air so I'm not sure how I can test the oil cooler for leaks.
I am thinking i need:
-Oil cooler (some suggest S4, some suggest TDI one?)
-Oil cooler gasket
-Feed and return lines
-Hose clamps
-g12 coolant
-Oil filter
-Synthetic oil
Should I replace the upper and lower radiator hoses while I've got the coolant out? What else should I replace while the coolant is out. I see people suggest flushing the system several times. Should i use G12 everytime or can I just use water to flush until its clean and fill with G12?
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been working on my passat for the last year oil cooler went bad and also my CCM fried. Anyways got the car running good or so i thought drove the car up the road today and my coolant sounds like it's boiling inside the reservoir.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Celica I think I may have overheating problems every time i stop after driving a little while i can hear a boiling noise from where you put your coolant in and when i open it there is steam coming from the black hose that goes in it.
The funny thing is when i am driving the temperature gauge stays at 1/2 way and never passes it, also sometimes when i stop green and a bit clear liquid leaks on the ground on the side where the battery is.
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When the car has been running awhile the coolant reservior and radiator make a boiling sound. It really only does it when it's been at idle for a bit. Radiator is full. Fan doesn't seem to come on after it has been running awhile but does when you turn on air. At what temp should it come on? The temp gauge never goes above the middle point so it stays in normal range, even when the tank are radiator are gurgling.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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Ok, so my 1994 chevy lumina euro coupe 3.1L has started stalling now that it is getting colder outside. This morning on my way to school. I started my car and put it in reverse and backed out a little bit and it stalled out. So I started it back up and it was ok. It acted like it was going to stall out again but it didn't. This has happened a total of 3 times now in the past week.
Also I do have a fuel problem as well. My car smells of VERY STRONG gas when sitting. And I am getting 11.9 mpg in the city and 14.7 mpg on the highway. Oh, and one more thing. I slowly lose coolant in my reservoir tank. It is a very slow leak and only leaks while the car runs.
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I've got an '08 Cobalt. There is a large leak in my coolant system. The plastic reservoir is empty and if I add coolant and start the engine it all gushes out of a hole in a piece of plastic on the side of the radiator. Can I drive it to the shop if I watch the engine temperature or should I have it towed? Is the engine temperature measurement affected by the lack of coolant?
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VW Golf 2000 2.0 GLS engine auto. 158,000 km
Observation 1: The coolant flange broken 3 times, which appear to be caused by pressure inside.
Observation 2: I drove it today to see the problem. During normal driving upper hill, the temperature turned to be higher than normal. 1 or 2 minutes later after red light, I turned off the engine. And then driving for 2 minutes after the green light, the temperature read appeared to go back to normal (a tiny bit higher than normal). Further driving 5-7 minutes, the temperature reading went to the high end again. So I stopped, opened the engine cover and can hear water boiling sound inside the engine. The coolant in the expansion tank was much higher than normal (above the maximum). The coolant is Prestone (not G12).
I would guess that coolant is not flowing inside. But the problem appears to occur randomly. A water pump issue? (replaced at 90,000km) Or could be the thermostat? Why cannot the pressure be released automatically?
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I just purchased a 2015 sonata last Friday from a large non Hyundai dealer. An hour ago while upgrading my headlights i noticed the coolant reserve tank was completely empty. I am going to check the main radiator level tomorrow because the engine was still hot at the time. I am hoping it is not a blown head gasket, i did remove the oil cap and noticed a very small amount of greyish oil in the cap threads other than that it looked good directly under the cap and inside the hole. Should i call my local Hyundai dealer or just fill the tank back up? I am wondering if it just burned off over time and the original owner never filled it back up. Also what type of coolant is compatible?
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I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
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A few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
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Why my 96 dodge neon is leaking coolant. I was checking my oil and I noticed the reservoir tank was half empty, so I assumed it was nothing out of the ordinary since it's a 17 year old car. When I filled it though, it came pouring out of the tube that sits right under the tank. I'm capping it off every day before I drive and it holds, but it's definitely got a slow leak. It seems to only hold it for 4 days of driving for an hour. My temperature gauge stays at the normal level, but you can smell the antifreeze burning and the engine's running hot. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but what could be wrong with it? I've recently installed a new alternator and clutch cable and found out my valve cover gasket is leaking. I really want to save this car instead of getting a new one.
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2.7 Power Steering Fluid boiling/foaming leaking out a reservoir cap!
1) Recently had Timing Belt/Water Pump and spark plugs/wires replaced.
2) Issue started immediately after.
3) Removed most of old PS fluid, cleaned out reservoir w/brake cleaner. NOTE: nothing appeared to be clogging reservoir. Refilled with new PS fluid. Repeated these steps a second time. This appeared to immediately resolve the issues for several weeks.
4) Now the power steering is getting rough and noisy again. Also, the PS reservoir is leaking out of the cap worse than before. It looks like the fluid may be "boiling", but it is definitely foaming up pretty badly.
What my issue(s) may be?
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8T Passat and he has oil in coolant reservoir. It does not blow out any smoke. It runs fine, and does NOT have coolant in the oil. We pulled off the oil/coolant heat exchanger on the oil filter and it appears to be good. We blocked off one end and filled it with coolant and put compressed air to the other end. Nothing came out. He took it to the shop and they said the turbo seals were good. I can't verify that though.
Head gasket? Worse yet cracked head or block? The car does have 170,000 miles.
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I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
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OK, my '01 GTI VR6 has been giving me overheating problems - I've had to replace the crack pipe, and I've been having problems with the plastic fittings (coolant lines around throttle, heater core) all breaking. Turns out the electric fans were bad, I replaced them yesterday. I did check them, neither one was coming on with the AC on, and with 12V jumpered directly to them, still no go, so it wasn't the fan controller.
I was looking forward driving my car without overheating, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards. Looks like the fans weren't the only thing wrong. The sympton I see is that the coolant overflows the coolant overflow tank, but the temp gauge, while it comes up to temp (190 degrees) it doesn't go beyond that - but I'm having coolant boiling out of the overflow tank?!
I really don't want to say out loud - but maybe a bad head gasket? I've heard there's something that's like litmus paper you can use to see if exhaust gasses are blowing into your coolant - where can I get it?
What may be wrong? Almost anything would be better than a bad head gasket! While I've been having these problems, I've not seen the temp gauge ever go beyond the center 190 degrees, what's happened is that while driving the low coolant warning will come on, I pull over, and coolant is bubbling and overflowing the tank.
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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