3000GT/Stealth :: 93 3000gt VR4 - Check Engine Light Comes On Goes Off When Driving At A Speed Of 55
Sep 6, 2014
I have a 93 3000gt VR4 with 214,000 miles on her at the moment. As I am cursing at a speed of 55 the check engine light comes on and stay on for a while then as sudden as it came on it goes off still driving at 55 or less depens on traffic. My question is why is this happening? I took it to AMMCO to have the code check but they could not because the check engine light is not constantly. I do not have a code sxanner for the car to read the codes if any. The engine runs strong I tried to see if I could get the check engine light to come on but to no avail. Could it be a sensor going bad or the ECU I had trouble with it before and had the dealer replaced it.
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I have a 1995 3000gt sl. When im on the freeway running at 80 mph and maintaining that speed it starts to overheat.I can reduce my speed and it starts to cool down I can also turn heater on high and that cools it down I cant hit the exit ramp and by the time I get stopped at the end of ramp its cooled back down.I can start it and sit with it running and it never gets hot.If I stay below 55 I never have any overheating its only when I increase and maintain 75 or faster I have a problem. Also when it was hot outside I turned my air on max cool one day and it got hot real fast.So to fix that I just didn't run my air any more. then a few months went by and this started to happen.50mph and slower its fine.But at freeway speed limit it starts running hot. Only with increased speed to the engine does it start getting hot.
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I have a 94 3000gt sl the tranny won't shift into overdrive I got a tranny out of a 92 3000gt sl will it fit and will I need to get anything extra to make it work.
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Need to locate and resolve the backfiring problem When I drive the car. I changed the lifters and smoother out the throttle body and install a new fuel filter and lines. the car ran fins until is missed shift and stalled the car. I then read on one of the forums that the coils could be bad so I changed all of them plus the O2 sensors. and the car idles fine but as i put it into gear it sluggish and backfire. I have change all that I know to except the spark plugs and wires. I'm thinking something maybe wrong with the computer. I don't have any diagnostics equipment. Is my engine ready to die?
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My 95 3000gt is smoking after about 30 minutes of driving. Smokes mainly when idle and upon acceleration. car has about 200k in mile. what could cause this.
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While driving home from work tonight a light on my dashboard began flickering when I was turning into the freeway. It is the far right set of lights, the third light from the bottom (or top as I believe there are only 5 lights/slots there)...
I have a 94 SL.
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Why the reverse lights goes out?
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Yesterday when I was on my way to a funeral, I noticed that whenever I braked kind of hard there would be a lot of noise and vibration on my car. The noise seemed to be coming from the front passenger side of the car and seemed to pull to the right a bit. I pulled over and took a look and everything looked fine but the sound and vibration was still there.
I drove about 10-15 minutes tops like this, parked the car, did the funeral home service, and 2 hours later while driving to the burial site (about 20 minute drive on the streets and freeway), everything felt fine. No vibration, no noise, nothing.
After the burial site I drove another 15 minutes to my parents house but this time you could hear the sound faintly and only when I braked hard. I jacked up the car and took off all the tires to take a look at the brakes/rotors and everything looked ok. I had plenty of pad left and the rotors seemed fine. With the tires on, I am able to spin the tires with my hands no problem.
This morning I drove to work and had no issues at all. No sound, no vibration, nothing. So at this point, I am stumped at what could have caused the noise and vibration earlier yesterday morning.
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My ecu capacitors leaked all over my ecu board which is normal for the 1gen 3000gt's. A guy from work who had the proper tools was able to hook me up and fix the board, so far so good.
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I have a friends 91 GTO in my garage and it will not start, it seems to be getting fuel because it smells pretty strong but I know it isn't getting spark, and everything on this car is in Japanese, I cant even figure out what fuses to check or anything...
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97 SL ATX - Not firing on cylinders 3 and 6; no voltage to that coil.
I've checked:
Plugs
Wires
Coils
PTU
ECU
Timing
So I guess the CAS is the next best guess. So where exactly IS the CAS...and how do i test it? Also, where is the timing mark on the crank pulley? Cams are all aligned but I didn't see a mark for the crank and don't know where I should be looking.
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Buying a vr4 this weekend with dr650 turbos... The only problem with car is when you shift into reverse it grinds and won't go into gear, I'm thinking its the reverse synchro?
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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I think my car has a vaccum leak. The car cranks ok, but it has a lope to it and when I try to drive it, it hesitate when I step on the gas and sputters, every since I cleaned the engine. I checked all the vacuum lines and found two that were broken or split. I replace those lines I also check the air intake vinyl connection to the throttle body it wasn't slpit. Well I didn't see a split in it. So I put it back together and cranked it. You can hear a vacuum leak sound near the fire wall. I pulled each vacuum line off one at a time and checked them again and found nothing. Could this be the intake plenum? I hat to take it to a mechanic when it is something simple that I could fix.
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3.0, SOHC engine...car started for coolant system leak check. Idle jumped to. 3000 RPMs. Shut car off...disconnected throttle cable from throttle body. Started car again, engine ran normally, no coolant leak found. Reconnected accelertor cable to throttle body. Tried starting car again, started rough then died after a few seconds. Changed fuel filter...disconnected fuel line to fuel rail and lots of comes out. MFI solenoid inside car clicks several times after engine dies. Engine tries to run, but wont, after it dies. ECU bad? Other issue?
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So I had this issue with my idling at 1300 rpms but every now and then it would idle at 400 and barley run then one day it didnt want to idle at all so I checked the iac and it was bad so I changed my oil, fuel filter, iac, cleaned my throttle body, fixed a vacuum hose, and cleaned my air filter.
When I started it it idle at 2200 I drove it a little and it dropped down to 1300 the next day I started it and it idled at 800 and staid there for four days now it idles at 2000 then will drop down and surge between 1300 and 1800.
I read that the oil you apply to the filter can contaminate the Maf and you should clean it but a lot of people said the one on a vr4 can't be cleaned while others say it fine. Is there a way to check the maf?
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I have a 91 Mitsubishi gto TT. I love my car and i was really hoping to repaint it soon but this problem is becoming more apparent. My car runs fine for the first 15 minutes, runs like a beauty! but then once it is warmed up it starts to struggle. I cant accelerate hard because it hesitates alot. The problem im having is pin pointing the problem. Ive searched a lot of stuff on the web and some people have similar problems.
Could it be bad spark plugs and wires causing some cylinders not to run properly? If so then why does does it run fine for the first 10-15 minutes?
I'll probably have my plugs and wires changed to see if that changes anything.
I just dont understand why my car accelerates great when cold but when hot starts to run sluggish.
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I have a ticking noise coming from my engine, its the loudest when cold, it only happens at about 1800 rpm and up, and it only happens when I'm pressing on the gas pedal. I looked around my engine, and the noise seemed like it was coming from my fuel injectors, however, the noise doesn't change speed. Can it still be my fuel injectors? or is it something else?
The car is a 1996 Mitsubishi 3000 GT Base (non-turbo), 5-speed manual.
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I was driving on a high speed highway (70 limit) doing 80 on cruise control and about 10 mins into my drive the car disengaged itself of the cruise control and the check engine came on for about 5 seconds while the car was forcefully slowing down by itself and then the check engine disappeared and I accelerated back to 80 and set it again for the rest of my hour drive. It wasn't just disengaging of cruise control it was like the engine shut off for a few seconds and then came back on.
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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I have a 2005 honda accord. When I was driving today it started to rain, so I turned on my wipers, at first they were ok, but later I noticed the wipers speed went down, and then the check engine light came on, I was still able to use the wipers and everything looked fine. I just had someone changed my oil on Tuesday. I got a new car and I only drove less than one hour per week using this old car. Is it possible the battery or alternator is bad? I will read the code tomorrow.
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