2009 Toyota RAV-4 Interior Light Left On And Battery Is Draining
Aug 28, 2015
I installed a new battery in my 2009 Toyota RAV-4 a couple of weeks ago. I left for holiday a week ago and to my dismay received a text from my neighbor saying that my interior light is ON. By the time I get back it will have been on for 10 days. Given that the battery is brand new, will it be usable again or will I need to buy a new battery? What will be the best way to recharge it? I have a portable car battery charger.
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Is the battery draining if you leave the door open all the way with dome light off?
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My 2011 Toyota Matrix (with Moon roof) driver side interior light won't turn off. It's in the off position. I've checked all doors and closed them properly and turned the dimmer switch down.
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2016 Autobahn about 5 weeks old - A couple of weeks ago I noticed a DEEP pool of water in the rear passenger floorboard.
I thought a kid spilled a bottle of water or something, but now two weeks later, it's still there.
It is just water, there's been zero rain here in CA, and no recent car washing.
I believe it is from the wife's trip to work and back when she runs the AC the entire way.
I just went out and ran the ac for 20 minutes, and there is zero water dripping from under the vehicle.
1) where is the condensation drain line? I hear it's along the firewall in the engine compartment.
2) What else could cause the condensation line to drain to the interior?
3) What about the carpet? Any chance at the dealer if we push for replacement?
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The Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
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So this morning I was going to my car and pushed the unlock button on my key FOB....nothing. Weird, thought maybe my FOB battery was dead. Opened the door with the key and noticed that my interior light did not come on. My battery is only a few months old, so i didnt think it could be that. Went to turn ignition...nothing, no crank no lights dimming..zero power at all. I opened up the hood and as i did so, i saw the lights on the interior come on. I tried to start it and it started right up. I let it sit for a minute and the car just died out. No power again. I looked at the battery terminal connections and all seemed to be ok, nothing loose etc. Then in about a minute, the power came back. Ended up driving the car to work, about 30 miles, and so far it is ok. I'm afraid of getting stuck somewhere, but i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot. Figured it can't be a fuse or it wouldn't cycle power like that. Connections to the battery seemed ok and even when i wiggled them, nothing happened.
I have an 07 with about 115k on it.
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Interior light does not work when I open any of the doors. The light works when I manually turn it on. My mechanic changed the dome light assembly with a new one an it still does not work when I open any of the doors. This is a 2000 toyota camry.
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I just bought a 2008 BMW 535ia. I owned it four days before the battery died. I went back to the dealer I bought from and he told me that it was my fault -- I didn't drive the car enough. Said due to "advanced electronics" car has to be driven for at least 30 minutes each and every time other wise battery will continue to drain.
I work at home so I only drive the car three or four days a week,mostly for a 10 minute trip to town. I'm afraid to take this car anywhere. For me, luxury now means having a car that you know will start.
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I own an 89 jag xj6. Something seems to be draining the battery. It can start fine in the evening but by the next morning its dead. If it sets too long its completely dead.. nothing... The alternator appears to be charging, after running it awhile it will start again. I put a new battery in it several months ago. The former owner said something about it maybe being a switch of some sort that has something to do with the climate control system?
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The interior light fixture for the back seat buzzes intermittently. It only happens when the radio is on. Is this something that can be repaired easily?
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Unhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
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I've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
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I am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
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I am having these problems on a 98 1.8T. The car starts and runs fine. Something is also draining the battery. From what I read it could be the CCM. Where to start to looking for the problem?
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something is causing the battery to go dead after the van sits for several hours. The battery isn't the problem, that has been replaced with a battery we know is good and then 4 to 6 hours later the battery is totally dead. what this could be?
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Just bought a 2006 Prius, ironically only has 31,000 km on it.
Recently, mostly today, i noticed the battery has been draining quite fast. I was at 2 bars from full(or 3? whatever is pre "green") and probably 5-10min later i was 2 bars and the gas engine was running. Whatever seemed odd, maybe the traffic was a little slower today.
However i started driving 80kph and it took over 5 minutes for the car , without battery running, to bump from 5 bars up to 6. The electric motor was literally not driving the whole time, it was strictly gas the whole 5 min.
I was also considering taking this car for an inspection at the dealer just to ensure everything is okay before winter hits.
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I have replaced the alternator and battery has good clean connections and cables. I have pulled the fuses for the interior lights and radio and alarm and it still keeps dying. The battery will be dead randomly could be overnight could be a few days...
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my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
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Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
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We have a 2005 Accord. The radio started to malfunction over a year ago. The clock display and everything just stopped working. Disconnecting the negative battery cable would reset it but then it would stop working again a short time after. Sometimes with the car off, you can hear the radio making a sound, like it's trying to eject a CD. Whatever its doing, its draining the battery.
I have to jump the car about once a week. I called the dealer and they said the radios for this year and model are known to be faulty but the fix is expensive and we cannot afford it. I'm pretty handy but not so much with stereo/ electronics. If there is a fix out there, I am willing to try it.
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I have a megaphone that I installed a while ago but I connected it straight to the battery. I noticed that it was draining my battery so I had to disconnect it. Now I am trying to figure out how i should connect this megaphone to my car without it draining the battery, when I am not using it.
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