2004 Sunfire Brakes Lock On Randomly While Driving
Sep 11, 2013
I drive a 2004 Sunfire and recently the brakes have started to just randomly "lock on" while driving. Upon visual inspection I noticed that the gasket for the brake fluid reservoir has holes in it - could the loss of vacuum in the brake system cause this? I have ordered a replacement gasket from Amazon. Seems that if I pull over, remove the reservoir lid and reseat the gasket, then let the car sit off for awhile it corrects itself. Before this started occurring I had the brakes visually inspected and the car test driven (unrelated) by a mechanic, and he said everything seemed fine.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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My 98 Sunfire has a grab and release feel when applying brakes. Mechanic fixed this same problem March 2012. I was told it was warped rotors and brake pads. This worked great until four weeks ago when it started again. I find it hard to believe that rotors and pads would warp again after 7 months. Also the front brakes lock up real easy on wet surface such as a light rain. When they lock up I get a bad rattle sound under the dash. ABS light does not come on and never has. This happens all the time. Even after new pads and rotors were installed.
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After replacing my brake pads and shoes I am hearing a squealing noise coming from the area near my brake pedal. This noise sometimes becomes high pitched if I depress the brake too hard. I am also losing a little bit of brake fluid if I depress the pedal hard several times. The brakes themselves function fine and have no problem stopping. When I bled the brakes today some of the fluid was black. I figured it might be air in the system but after bleeding them it is still happening. I also replaced the bleeder screws.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L uses DOT 3 brake fluid.
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So my car keeps just dying while i'm driving..my car was running just fine until i got gas one morning and then started to sputter while i was driving and didn't want to accelerate very well...read a multiple misfire code when my check engine light was on..changed the coil packs and now isn't reading anything but now it takes a lot of cranks to get the car to start and while i am going down the road it will just die...normal engine dying lights will come on the dash when it dies..have changed the fuel filter..checked the catalytic convertor...checked plugs and wires..once in a while i do get a funny gas smell on the outside of my car but it's not leaking anywhere..checked the battery and still does it with a new battery..changed the fuel pump about 3 years ago..
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My daughter drives a 1996 sunfire 2.2. car started stalling while driving about a year ago. No apparent pattern, would go weeks even months in between. Last summer it became more frequent and noticed it would only do it when engine was warm. After stalling it will restart after what seems to be a cooling down period. Now it does it at idle as well. (Replaced fuel pump and filter) would like a good guess before I start putting money into it.
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I own a pontiac sunfire '00, and it makes a crackling noise in the rear end whenever I drive slowly, what could it be?
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So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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Will be driving and the radio will just come on. This happens every now and then.
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I have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire the other week I was driving and it stopped on me the engine would crank but quickly turn off but everything inside the car would still be on k was told I needed a new cat and got that and a new muffler put on. This morning I went to leave for work and the same thing happened again! I was told it could be the fuel pump or fuel filter but it doesn't act weird while driving it. What could this be?
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My Mom has an '04 RX330, and the other day the sunroof randomly opened, and she closed it with the button with no problem. For the last 3 days, this has occurred randomly (opening only - all closing is by her) and all occurrences are when she is driving (not parked).
I told her to wrap the fob in foil today to remove that connectivity and to see if the fob is to blame. We will replace those batteries anyway as I don't know that they have ever been replaced.
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While driving over bumps my front end makes horrible rattling sounds. The car also bounces somewhat wildly when i push down while it's parked. I figure its time to replace the suspension as it's got 125k miles on it. My question is exactly what parts do i need to buy? I am going to do both the front and back. I see names of parts thrown around all over. bushings, struts, springs, bearings etc... so what parts do i need to buy?
1997 pontiac sunfire 2.4L coupe
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04 jetta 1.8t
apr tune 1.6v
neuspeed 4bar fuel pressure regulator
3" turbo back
APR TIP
This is the second time this happened to me. First time was about two weeks ago where i was just driving and the car stalled. Tried to start but it sounded like it just wasn't getting fuel. Brand new battery, terminals are clean) Got it started and it was revving high like a cold start, normal but why after driving for 30 mins? EPC light came on also which was strange along with the CEL, a buddy checked the code and it was for the secondary air injection pump. (I have not had that go off in a while. Code po4011 secondary air injection. Had this issue a while ago with that code when i did a short ram intake. Tuner cleared it so i can pass emissions. ) Now today it died about 2 miles from my house. Same thing but no CEL. EPC light came on and car was revving high, luckily 3 cars behind my buddy was there and he give me a push into the gas station. Once again it wanted to start but i felt like no fuel. waited a few minutes and it started right up again until it almost died in my drive way. Cluster comes on when it dies. ignition is good.
My big question is the stalling part and the EPC light coming on, then the car revving like it is a cold start but not stopping? and i need this car to be working.
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My friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
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The past couple of months my ABS light has been coming on randomly. It comes on after several minutes (or hours sometimes) of driving then stays on. I wrote it off as a bad sensor but now, even when under light braking, if I hit even a small bump in the road, I can feel the ABS activating in the pedal. Seems like more than a sensor to me. I know I have a front wheel bearing going out but how would that be related? 2007 F150 5.4 2wd
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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My rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
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04 with 170k miles. truck runs fine. every now and then truck shuts off while driving. turn it off the it restarts every time. Only code that comes up is number 6 injector. The contribution test injector is firing right. FICM voltage is 47.5. has new ipr and hpop also 6k miles ago. Could it be number 6 shorts out or something crazy killing truck? or maybe a crank sensor.
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Background: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
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