2003 Acura Tl 3.2L - Tire Or Wheel Vibration Whenever Car Went Over 40 Mph
Feb 12, 2014
A week ago my wife's car had a loud vibration in what i assumed was the tires or wheels whenever the car went over 40 mph, and got louder the faster i went. I noticed the front left tire looked a little low, and I was taking it in for an oil change anyway that day so i had them fill up the tire too. When I left it still had the same vibration all the way home. The car just sat in our garage for most of the last week with my wife driving it just around locally and I took it this morning with the plan to drop it off somewhere on my lunchbreak to get it checked out, but the vibration seems to be gone. I got it up to 90 mph and noticed nothing.
The car is an 2003 acura tl 3.2L with about 125,000 miles on it.
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I have been experiencing a slight wheel vibration from the rear of my R32? I am thinking about replacing my wheels and tires, (continental sport contact 2 is what I have now) I have heard that the continental tire has an aggressive tread pattern because i get a tire noise above 45 mph.
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We have a new to us 2009 camry that has a slight vibration in the steering wheel. Wife drives the car daily and says its rather inconsistent. The tire air pressure light came on so I was checking tires and noticed something and was wondering if this could be the vibration.
The outer edge tread on the rear tires seems to have wore unevenly. This is the best photo I could get. When you run your hand along it you can feel every other 'lug' is raised a little on the rear side of the tread.
REAR TIRE
The front tires are wore even, but it appears previous owner didn't rotate very often and plenty of tight turns were made or unproper inflation?
FRONT TIRE
Would rotate? The middle of the tires still have good tread left.
Link to tire on the car
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I had my tires rotated about 2,500 miles ago with tire balancing and wheel alignment done. After this the car developed strong vibrations at between 55 and 65 mph. When the speed goes up or down from that range the shaking stops. If I am going at a speed higher than 65 mph and brake the car shudders until the speed is below the 55 to 65 range.
I had the VW dealer do another tire balance, but the problem persisted. I then went to a Goodyear tire outlet and had them do a tire balance and then another one about two weeks later. The problem is still there. The Goodyear people suggested running the car for a while and see if it improves. It has not about 2,000 miles later
The VW tech rode with me and said that it was warped rotors that caused the vibration, but if the rotors are warped, should this vibration also be felt for other speeds?
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I own a 2003 Chevy Venture minivan that had the front left tire go flat yesterday. I backed out of the parking space and drove a few feet before realizing we had a flat and then immediately re-parked. The spare was bad (rusty and flat) so I had someone take me to Goodyear to replace the tire (it had a hole on the inside sidewall and was not repairable).
We got the tire on and drove the 30 miles home - as I was driving, I noticed that there was a slight vibration and a buzzing/humming sound coming from the front of the car. It definitely changed pitch/feel as the car sped up or slowed down.
I'm going to take the tire back off today and inspect everything to make sure everything is in place, but what might be going on? Bent rim? Tire balance?
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My wife has an Acura, and when braking at higher speeds, she is getting a really bad "vibration". I am assuming the rotors are warped. We had both axles (rotors/pads) done last year (about 40k ago) at Midas. After they did them, we had to take the car back about 3 times for squeaky pads, and I swear a slight vibration, but they didn't fix them. Anyway, even though they offer "lifetime pads," I refuse to go back there.
So, her pads now started squeaking again. We were dealing with the warped rotors until we had some extra money and time to take it in. At this point, I am wondering where I should take it. I have no clue if the pads are good, and I'm guessing the rotors just need to be turned since they were just put on last brake job.
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I recently had my rear engine mount replaced on my 2004 Acura TSX. It was originally identified by the original dealer as requiring replacement and when I took it to anther Mechanic he also verified this and during the replacement he showed me the original engine mount which had a definitive crack.
After installation the Mechanic indicated that the car would feel a little stiff for a while and would smooth out over time. What I found after the first couple of days is that the engine seems to have a significant vibration when I am in idle or after I brake. When the car is in motion there is still a vibration but it is not very noticeable. I just remember from prior feel of the vehicle. This vibration did not exist prior to replacing the rear engine mount.
Is this expected to be normal until I put miles on it. The Acura is a 2004 but only has 75,000 miles. I don't drive it very much but I am concerned that the vibration I feel when I brake may be creating additional damage.
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My transmission started to slip badly and I stopped it immediately and found transmission fluid in the radiator and nothing in the transmission. We replaced the radiator and flushed and refilled everything. It runs great now except it is vibrating every now and then. I'm wondering if the vibration is from running the transmission dry.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord. I've had an issue with steering wheel vibration for the past 10 months. In that time, I've installed new hubcentric rings for my after market wheels, gotten my tires balanced, bought a whole new set of tires all together, and changed my cv axles twice. I still experience vibration in the steering wheel when I get up to 60 mph and all the way up to 80 mph. At times I have had vibration at low speeds, around 20 mph, but that was solved first when I installed the hubcentric rings, and again most recently with this second set of cv axles. Am I missing something or will I have to chase a solution to this problem until I am bankrupt?
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I have a problem with vibration in steering wheel and at speeds of 50 to 60 mph. It also vibrates at idle. This problem did not start until we had new brakes and rotors turn. We also have had tires rotated and balance. They told us we needed new motor mounts. We had them replace and the shake got worse. They replaced the front axles and the transmission mount. I also bought two new tires.
This started out when we took our car to have the tires rotated and balance. The Mechanic told us we needed new brakes, so we took it to get this done. we are now having all kinds of problems as I stated above. Took it to the Honda place here and one person told us it was not worth fixing. I do not believe this. The car has a little over a 115,000 miles on it. I have been driving a Honda since 1992. This car we bought new and I know it has been service.. One person at the Honda place here said he could replace all the mounts and would not promise it would fix it. We have even had one of the new tires replace because they said it was bad.
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My wife's 2003 Echo has had some persistent issues. We've replaced the right front wheel bearing 3 times now, and the driver side front once.
The current issue is steering wheel vibration. It's hardly noticeable at 40mph, but gets serious around 60mph.
Some things I noticed when I took it for a spin today:
The right front wheel makes a clunk-squeak sort of sound on rough road. It has a looser feel at those times. Sort of like an old truck. Not a peep out of the driver's side.
The steering wheel vibration is not changed by shifting to neutral (it's an automatic). The vibration increases with speed, and is rougher at 50mph coming down on a coast from 60 than it is accelerating up from 40.
The vibration is reduced with slight braking and stops with heavy braking. In turns where the weight of the car is shifted to the right side, the vibration is reduced or stops. When the weight is shifted to the left (driver) side, there is no effect or it gets worse.
Uphill seems to be worse than downhill.
The car does not drift to either side when the steering wheel is released when not vibrating, and doesn't have much wander even with the wheel vibrating.
It does not clunk or squeal when turning or braking.
The mileage is 115k.
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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2003 Toyota RAV4, approx 130K.
A month ago I put a new set of Goodyear tires on my RAV. I drive on the highway 35-40 miles each way to and from work every day. Immediately after the new tires go on, I notice a vibration from the steering wheel at highway speed, above 60 mph. I took the car back to the tire shop (an independent tire shop, not a chain) and asked them to rebalance the tires. They did, and I took the car home. Drive to work the next day, vibration is worse. Next day, my dad and I switch cars so he can take it in. The tire shop says the front end alignment is off, and adjusts it. Small improvement, but vibration is still there.
I took it in for the 3rd time this weekend, and they swap the front and back tires at my request, thinking this might isolate the problem. The shop also checks my struts and says they are ok. (I don't even know what struts are, but apparently they are ok.) Now the vibration has moved out of the steering wheel and is coming from the rear and the floor. It does not happen when I apply the brakes or am on city streets. What this would be? Bad tire or tires? Something else going on altogether? What should I ask them to do?
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Purchased 2000 F150 (224000 miles) about a year go cheap for knock around truck. Only gets driven about twice week (20 miles most). Has been running great until recently. Got in the other day went about a mile and notice really strong vibration in steering wheel and dash. First thought about something to do with alignment etc. After a little experimentation realized it was the motor. When you get to around 40 mph and try to hold the speed constant it starts shaking (I believe the motor is missing). If you mash the gas and accelerate it stops. As soon as you try to hold constant speed again it starts again. I can run it up to say 45 and let off the gas and the shaking stops. Once it was driven like this for about 5 miles or so, when I come to stop sign it idles rough. If it is put in neutral runs smoother. Could the fuel filter be clogging up? I did try some additive to see if it would clean it out, no luck. Now the check engine soon lite came on. Fuel Filter, Plugs?
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I replaced both 1/2 axles last week after one CV boot pretty much disintegrated. Since it is a 2005 Acura TL with 146K miles, I changed both axles completely. BTW - I had NO forewarning, noises, etc. before the axles died last week! I only perceived an increase in road noise, but did not hear noises squeaks, thumps, clacks, etc.!) The first day I drove the car after the new axles, I noticed a thump, thump, thump from the right wheel area when I made a sharp, slow turn out of my driveway. It only happened once, but it was a quick trip.
The next day, I noticed it again as I pulled out of my driveway and later as I pulled into a parking spot. There are no other symptoms and it only occurs when the wheel is turned to an extreme (80-90 degree) at little to no speed. I tested it in an empty parking lot - slow circles in either direction will cause the thump, primarily coming from the right wheel area. I immediately drove to the repair shop and made an appointment. Why I'd develop a new thump immediately after getting new axles? I'm thinking something isn't right with their installation. Of course, they say nothing is wrong with what they did - the problem now is that I need stabilizer links?! Sounds like BS to me - why all of a sudden do I need BOTH stabilizer links immediately after repair work?
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1987 model with 160k
Had the two tires changed a week ago - all was fine. Then developed this clicking sound when the car is moving forward.
After it first made this noise, it stopped on its own for three days - now hearing again. I looked under and could not see anything. CV boot seems fine and are recent too.
Every 2 yrs I have Sears service my brakes - not sure disc brake is slipped and touching something - never did that before but several years ago, tire shop adjusted saying it slipped.
I checked the lug nuts - they are tight. What is going on?
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I have a 2007 Acura TSX with 117k miles. We had the rotors and pads replaced in July of 2014 at Midas (won't go back there again!). Anyway, we are getting a pulsating in the steering wheel (shaking) when braking at times. Sometimes it is much more noticeable than others. This started shortly after having the pads/rotors installed. I took it back to Midas, and of course they couldn't duplicate the issue.
So, here's my question, can we continue to drive the car until it needs new pads (then I'll change the pads and rotors)? I know that the steering vibration can be annoying at times (it's not AWFUL, but you can tell that they're warped). I really hate to have to replace both right now as money is pretty tight with buying a house.
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I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
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1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I'll be driving my car and then it will randomly drift to the right, it doesn't normally do it. It doesn't shake or hard of steering. It is at random times. My car is a 2003 Acura rsx base model 109000 miles...
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