2002 ZR2 Sonoma 4x4 Starting Sometimes Takes A Few Tries
Sep 5, 2015
I'm trying to figure out what the problem with my truck is. Starting sometimes takes a few tries. It will start then stall immediately or run rough for a bit and stall or run normal. At first I thought it was electrical since I used a jump start off a battery charger and it started right up. The battery was 5 yrs old so I got a new one and it's starting better but still not all the time. I replaced the fuel filter and it didn't seem to make any difference. I tested the fuel pressure and it's at 52 PSI before and after starting. Seems to start better when warm. Runs perfectly fine after starting, no other issues.
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I have a 2002 Prius that doesn't start properly, It takes about 3-10 tries, put key in , try and start, pull key out, repeat.
Brake pumps are working, 12 volt battery is 6 months old and has voltage. This behavior is only at after sitting all night, not during the day. Car has about 200k miles on it. No codes.
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My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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I have a 2002 GMC Sonoma, 4wd, with about 100,000 miles on it. It recently started making a new noise. When you start it up and drive it, it makes a noise that gets louder as you increase speed. At about 20-25mph, it sounds like an airplane. The noise decreases as you slow down. If you shift into neutral and rev the engine, the noise is not affected, eliminating anything in the engine. When you slow down to stop, you feel a slight sensation in the brake pedal, like the transmission downshifting (this is when you are nearly stopped), and the noise goes away. You can then drive as normal with no noise at all until after the truck is restarted and driven after being shut off and parked. Then you repeat the cycle. The truck is in 2wd when this happens.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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My wife and I have a Nissan Quest 2000. Our vehicle broke down last November 21, 2010 and the mechanic replaced the alternator and the battery. Our vehicle worked fine after that, but two weeks ago the battery cable came loose and I had to have that fix, by another mechanic. Our van worked fine for a week and now the Quest takes 15-30 minutes to turn over. What is wrong?
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
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1995 GMC Sonoma, 4.3L TBI 2-wheel drive Automatic. Will not go more than 20 MPH, will stall out and die if you try pushing on the accelerator. Had a code of 32 saying the EGR Valve. I bought and put on a new EGR Valve. Still does the same thing--no power and only 20 MPH. I'm wondering if it could be that the catalytic converter is plugged or maybe a bad fuel pump.
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1996 GMC sonoma, 150k, automatic. Parked it today and it wouldn't go into park. First thought was that the cable had stretched but notice that the shift lever wasn't going all the way to the park position. Feels like something is blocking it. Tried it running as well as not running. Of course I can't get my keys out or turn the ignition all the way off so I had to unhook my battery.
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I have a 1999 GMC Sonoma with 76,000 miles. The heater started blowing cold air so I took it to my local GMC dealer and they did a chemical flush of the heater core. The heater now blows luke warm air but it is not nearly as warm as it used to be. My local dealer repair shop is now telling me that I need to replace the heater core itself to the tune of about $1,000. Do I have any other options?
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1999 Sonoma, 4.3L V6, 2 wheel drive, X engine code, about 92,000 miles.
It doesn't accelerate smoothly. It starts, runs, idles fine. Drives fine at constant speed. The problem comes when during moderate acceleration, either from a stop or when speeding up from a constant speed, i.e.: passing another car or getting on the freeway.
If I go real easy on the throttle, it runs fine and accelerates ok. But if I give it too much gas, it sputters out, misses, chokes, total loss of power. This happens under normal driving conditions. The 'check engine' light hasn't come on.
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Just had a quick question in regards to my Sonoma. My 97 Sonoma 2.2l transmission died on me a few weeks back and i happen to have a working 4.3L transmission from an old 2000 Sonoma i once had. My question is will it work? Am I able to bolt the 4.3L tranny to my 2.2L engine? and if they would is there anything else I would require to make it work?
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I recently bought a 2000 Gmc Sonoma SLS and it's been a headache ever since. Ever since I got it, it's made this rattling sound that only occurs when I'm both idling and when the AC compressor is on. The sound is intermittent and sounds like something rattling against a large metal pan. Whenever I turn the AC off or pick up the RPMs, it stops like it was never there.My first thought was: belt tensioner. So I popped the hood and watched the tensioner at idle and it seems to be moving back & forth a lot more than I think it should, however, there's not much give at all when I push on the belt itself.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
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I have a 2001 GMC Sonoma Highrider Edition it has the 4.3 Vortex and its 4x4 my transmission has been whining slightly it has 169,000 miles on it runs and shifts great it when's when ever its in park and whens threw 1st gear from what I can tell but it doesn't whine in Reverse from what I can tell. This is my first truck and I love it so far and Id hate for the transmission.
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The brake lights on my truck are not working all the fuses are good, the bulbs are good, I have changed the brake switch. They still do not work, altho all the other lights at the rear work even tail lights.
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Car: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual,
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles...
Symptom: Sometimes won't start (not even turn over) when engine is warm. It doesn't die or anything it just won't start if i've been driving for more than an hour and I say, stop to get gas or something. It doesn't make an sound, not even a click. This has only happened to me about 3 or 4 times in the last 6 months.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround : The following three things work to get it started every time:
1. A jump starts it right up
2. Push start starts up real easy (I've done it by my self on flat pavement
3. Wait for an hour or two (not always an option)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: My feeling is that the starter motor is beginning to go but are there other things that can cause this before I pour money into fixing the starter?
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I have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
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