2002 S10 4.3l V6 Won't Start But Crank Fine
Jan 1, 2009
Replaced battery. It seems to crank fine and I can definitely hear the pump kick in for a couple seconds at first, but just will not start. It sat for several days in cold weather. Based on what I have read here I am thinking it is the fuel pressure, and that I need to get the tool to check that. There is about 1/4 tank fuel now, it seems that once before when it sat for several days around 1/4 tank it started and ran rough, then ran fine after I filled the tank. Could it be as simple as filling the tank?
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2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T (engine stock except diverter valve) 171k miles
It's done this a couple times now. Both while raining out/high humidity. Prior to this, I could hear the pump "growling". Sounded like maybe starting to go. You could hear it prime when opening the door or turning the key forward but would stay sounding like that even when the car was started. Without the radio, you can hear the pump running.
1st time- The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit a few minutes, turned key, heard it prime,tried again, started right up like there wasn't an issue and I couldn't hear the pump this time while the car was running.
2nd time-The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit for an hour, opened door (couldn't hear prime), checked fuse 28 (good). Figured wth, let's try anyways. Turned key, couldn't hear prime, started right up. WTF. cold idle normal (1000-1200rpm), light revs to 3000 ish normal. Turned off car, let sit for a minute. Turned key, heard prime, car started without issue and I couldn't hear the pump again while the car was running.
My dad is thinking to replace the pump right away. Is there anything else to try? The relay is working... at least sorta. With the somewhat intermittent issue, where to start? Either way, relay or pump, I will be replacing fuel filter.
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Camry 2002 LE (4 cyl Auto), 140K mi
This morning, for the first time I can recall, the car would not start right away. Had been sitting in the garage for 2+ days. Starter would crank just fine, but engine would not fire. No lites were left on overnite. Finally (after about 6+ attempts), engine started -- runs fine now.
Took it to TOY dealer. Their diagnosis: weak battery, alternator low output.Happy, had recently (6 mos) replaced battery after 4 years of use, so got a new battery N/C.TOY ran a charging system check and it shows "Alternator Condition: OK" (midway between shitty and great I recall).
Funny, but my first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors. I did ask my regular mechanic for an opinion, and he thinks it might indeed be the fuel pump -- perhaps a clogged filter.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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My 2004 Buick Century is parked outside, it starts up fine and runs fine every morning and anytime it sits for a period over an hour in any kind of weather including minus 25 degrees. Sometimes when I shut it off for say 15 minutes or half hour and then go to start it again it will crank over fine but not start up. I can try several times, same thing.. But then if I leave it alone for maybe another half hour and try it again it starts and runs fine. also no warning lights etc. It's like something needs to reset itself. What is causing this ?
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I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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My 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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I have a 2002 chevy s-10 pickup, 4.3 V6 vortec, 4 wheel drive. It has developed a crank-no start when it's wet outside. Snow, rain, even high humidity.
Things already done: cap/rotor/wires/plugs; coil; fuel pump (fuel psi between 45-55). There was an issue with the distributor being chewed up by the cam - cam gear was inspected and is supposed to be in good shape. A used distributor was installed by the local shop. Engine has 200,000 miles. I was told the timing chain is a bit stretched but there is no timing problem.
Good power, smooth idle, no smoke and there is no engine codes generated by the crank-no start problem. I have power to the coil when it's happening, fuel in the system, even have a spark out of each cylinder wire but it still won't start. I think the car is possessed!
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2002 V6 Camry no crank/no start.
- Turn key, starter relay clicks, clock dims (headlights do not), no crank/no start.
When I arrived the battery appeared new, the connections clean / tight and I could put my hand on the starter relay and feel/hear it click. With a brass bar and hammer, I gave the solenoid a tap and the car started right up. We shut the car off, no start again, tapped the solenoid again and the car started right up... again. Bad starter contacts right? Sure.
Since the starter on the 02 V6 Camry doesn't have removable solenoid contacts, I went and bought a new solenoid (out of my pocket). I pulled the starter out, replaced the solenoid, re-installed and.... same symptoms, but tapping a new solenoid won't work...
Now I was so sure this was going to be the fix, that when I returned I only brought the tools I needed for the install... Frustrating. I did have an old meter in my truck that I used to measure voltage at the solenoid..
I read 8.5Volts to the solenoid coil with the key turned to START. I hooked up a jumper battery as well, and yes, 8.5v is what I read.... Now the meters batteries are weak, the readings it gives me are inaccurate, and I'll be going back Saturday with my good meter, more tools, and wiring diagrams etc.
Are there any common issues with this vehicle I could look for here that might cause low voltage in the solenoid's circuit; ignition switch, specific splice point, area where wires get chaffed or pins come loose in connectors etc?
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Went to start the truck, turned the key - dash lit up, fuel pump primed, turned the key all the way and nothing. Truck did not even try to turn over, headlights did not dim, no starter, no crank.
I checked/tested the following:
-Battery and terminal connections - good fully charged 12.3v
-Ran battery charger on slow charge 10-15 min (quick) to full 13v
-Wiring to starter - good
-Relay box under hood - has power
-Starter relay - has wiring diagram on it - tested good.
-Every ignition related fuse in the relay box - all good
-Every ignition fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box - good
-I wiggled the ignition switch while turning every possible way - no crank
-I ran the gearshift lever through all the gears, tried to start it in neutral - no crank
-Rolled the truck a little, put in park - no crank
For some reason I decided to double check the # 24 RDO IGN fuse - it was fine. With the fuse still out I tried to start the truck and it STARTED!
I turned the truck off, replaced the fuse and the truck started again and, so far, ever since. I do not think the # 24 fuse had anything to do with it; I just got lucky.
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So i got a 2002 gti 1.8t awp . Wont start unless I crank it about 2-4 times. Also noticed a bit of a grinding/high pitched noise when cranking. when the car starts up it idles perfect, doesn't die , drives perfect etc...
Eventually i got the car scanned. & got 2 codes.
P0341 : Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance B1
&
P0230 : Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
So I went and bought a Fuel pump , Camshaft position sensor & Even a new starter. Nothing fixed it. & the problem still occurs..
Heres a video of me trying to crank it ; [URL] .....
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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I've been working on this explorer for a week now and I figured it's time to ask around. My explorer won't start/crank, I've replaced the starter, battery terminals, tested voltages/amps/relays and fuses, still nothing. All i get is a heavy clunk, like the starter is engaging but the flexplate won't budge. It's a 2002 4.0 xlt automatic.
I'm fearing the engine is seized as I've tried manually turning the engine with a socket on the crank pulley bolt and even with a breaker bar I can't get it to move. The thing ran fine a week ago and I can't imagine this thing would seize at barely over 100k miles, not hydrolocked or anything I can think of, are these engines prone for spontaneous seizure or am I missing something?
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I have a 2002 2.0L 5spd Jetta that has an intermittent crank no start issue. The car has about 140k miles on it. The car will crank, but will not always start. It seems to start about 8/10 times. During the cranking, there is a rough noise coming from the starter area. More on this noise later.
When the car starts, no codes are thrown. When it refuses to start, the following codes show up:
P0261 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low
P0267 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0270 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0264 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low B1S2
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (I don't think this is related to the intermittent starting issues)
I've read up on these codes, and there are instances of other people getting these codes as well, but unfortunately, I haven't found any "smoking gun" that's the root cause to solve the issue. What I've tried, chronological order; none of these solved the problem:
Checking for spark. The spark plugs are new (within 2 months), but I removed spark plug and checked for spark.
Check fuel system: I removed the fuel line to the engine and drained it to a jug. I saw fuel flow intermittently when I keyed on the car. (Should it flow continuously?)Replaced the fuel filterSwapped fuel relay 409Checked wires near relays for obvious signs of damage (admittedly maybe I missed something here)Swapped coil pack. The coil pack was replaced in April, but I put a different one on, to no avail.
The spark plug wires were replaced at the same time as the coil pack.Starter
Thought fixing the noise might fix the starting issue. The noise from the starter is a grinding noise that occurs during the cranking process (not after, as is a common problem with these Jettas. It's NOT this noise: [URL] .... In any case, I tried the fix for the above noise by removing the starter and regreasing the inside. That didn't work and the noise and the intermittent starting issues are still here.Finally took the starter to Advance Auto Parts, had it tested, and was told it was good.
I think I have two issues that may or may not be related- the intermittent starting issues and the noise issue. They started happening at close to the same time.
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Will try to sum it up: Most of the time, the thing starts like a charm, first try. Every now and then, though, I'll turn the key and either a) nothing will happen or b) it will slowly crank and eventually start. If nothing happens, I have always been able to try again seconds later and everything works OK. Have been through several batteries. Current battery checks out OK, as does starter and alternator.
A short circuit, perhaps? If so, how would I check it out? Problem with taking it to a mechanic is, most of the time all is OK. No pattern as to when the trouble will occur (has yet to happen with vehicle in the shop, of course).
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4L (VIN-L) that has been sitting in the driveway since February. I have been a mechanic for 30 years for large commercial trucks, and my own truck has me stumped. I'm sure I've forgotten something but I'll try to list everything I have tried so far. It started with crank no start, no check engine light, checked for trouble codes got a trouble code for the CHT(cylinder head temperature) sensor.
- Replaced the CHT sensor. Cleared codes.
- Dash lights up fine, shows mileage, and anti-theft is not flashing while cranking.
- Fuel Pump does not seem make any sounds. Hit the tank with a hammer. Nothing.
- A little fuel comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I push on it. I have not checked it with a pressure gauge.
- Attempted to start with ether, nothing, so I'm assuming no spark.
- Fuel pump inertia switch isn't triggered.
- Checked several ground connections to the frame and checked ground connections in the PCM harness. All have less than 5 ohm resistance.
- Unplugged and plugged back in cam shaft sensor.
- Checked voltage on the TPS(throttle position sensor) I'm unsure about the results, if the TPS was bad wouldn't it just idle funny and/or stall?
Fuel Pump and PCM relays in the underhood fuse block appear to be good. All other fuses and relays appear to be good. I have been swapping the relays with one I think is good, although. Searched all over for additional relays, and found 3 inside the cab behind the passenger air-bag. Can't seem to find anything in the Haynes/Chilton manual that lists what they do. They are about half the size of the fuel pump relay.
Manually grounded the fuel pump relay, relay clicks but I don't hear a buzz from the fuel pump. Id like to run 12V to the fuel pump directly to see if that's my issue, but I'm not sure where to connect it without frying something important.
I bought the alldata.com DIY guide for my truck and it hasn't worked much. I have read extensively about others with similar problems and I just don't know what to do next. My main question here is, if the fuel pump is bad, would that stop the spark plugs from working? I'd rather not replace the fuel pump without being absolutely sure.
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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