When I put the pedal down to the floor for a little fun my check engine light will start flashing. I'm not sure how many times or for how long but it worries me.. The check engine light has been on but the car does have 233,000 miles on it but new engine was put in 100,000 ago
View 1 RepliesOn a long trip (about halfway through a 1500 mile journey), I ran over a tire at 65 miles an hour. I stupidly kept going (as I was heading to the hospital to literally be with my father as he was dying). After 350 more miles (with 5 hours of rest in between) the car was showing hot (with no smells or symptoms) so I pulled into a shop. When the mechanic went out to pull the car in, it would not start. They let it cool and pulled it in, did a test and showed me a tube with the radiator fluid in it that was greyish. They told me my head gasket was blown and that the cost of repairing it was the same as the value of my car. I had to abandon the car, and rent a car to get to my dad. He died, and now I'm having to deal with the car.
The insurance company said they would cover the bumper damage but not the engine, as they could not prove running over the tire caused the engine to overheat. The car has 200,000 miles on it and is 13 years old, but had a new timing chain, pump, etc. ($1,900) of work a few months ago...and was running like a charm. There have never been any concerns about the engine in the past and the car has never overheated for any reason. I take care of it meticulously. It seems suspicious to me that there would be no link between running over a tire earlier that day, and the overheating.
When the owner of the shop put it on the lift, he says there was nothing obvious like a hose hanging down, etc., and so he thinks its unrelated to running over the tire. Because he said this, the insurance company will not cover the engine repair or give me a check for the totaled car.
I'm thinking of having the car towed to a different shop to get a second opinion. What should they look for? How can I prove this is linked? Now, the car has sat for 10 days. Is all evidence going to be gone at this point. What should I do? I have $3,000 to lose here, by giving up.
This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
My 2001 Chrysler Concorde courtesy lights come on mysteriously in the middle of the night? I put my slippers on and open and lock the doors and they go out okay but pop on again. Is this a short in the wiring harness to one of the doors?? Can I fix it myself? Can I pull a fuse and still operate the car? My battery is completely drained when I fly out of town.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 Chrysler Concorde. I bought a brand new Mopar battery about 4 months ago. I don't use the car very much, but I do start and run it at for at least 15 minutes at least once a week. Today it wouldn't start. I last ran it about a week ago. Is it likely to be a problem with the alternator?
View 8 RepliesMy 1997 Chrysler Concorde has oil leaks, trying to keep car till this fall. When I am at a stop light or just sitting and idling, the oil light starts blinking and then stops and blinks again. As so as I give it some gas , it goes out. Someone said it may be the oil sending unit or the oil pump.
View 5 RepliesEvery now and then, when I start my car, the speedometer needle pegs completely to the right and then settles down and acts normally. Why does this happen and what does it indicate? The car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
View 6 RepliesSo my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
View 14 RepliesJust a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
View 1 RepliesI have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
View 1 RepliesAs I pulled my car into the garage tonight and put it into Park, I realized the ABS light was on as I opened the door. The car was still on at this point. I then heard a squealing coming from the front of the car. I think the lights surged whenever it would squeal (about every 10 seconds maybe) I began to smell that something was getting hot in the front of the car and quickly shut it off. What the possible source of this could be?
View 5 RepliesI have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
My 18 year old daughter has a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe that I owned for 8 years before passing down to her. Just recently she was driving when all 4 brakes locked up and the brakes began to smoke when she attempted to drive it to a location where she could pull over. The pedal went all the way to the floor. ABS light is on. Had a tow truck bring it to my brother's house. The tow truck guy was able to back it off his truck and it stopped fine. Later when my brother test drove it, the same problem occurred. My brother replaced the Master Cylinder but it didn't work.
View 1 Replies2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
I intend to bring our car to the shop, but before I do, I'm curious about what could be making an older car (a 1995 Chrysler Concorde) run "hot" or "high." I think the temperature gauge needle climbs too high, even though the car doesn't actually overheat. It also smells too hot after driving just a few miles. Probably most tellingly, the engine sounds like it's running too high -- even when just idling, it sounds almost like it's being revved.
View 4 Replies2004 with 214000 miles. Brake pedal goes to the floor, red dash lights are flashing, I just added a container of brake fluid and still no pressure at the pedal. I'm guessing master cylinder.
My question is: Even though my brake pedal goes directly to the floor, how am I getting the car to stop at the very end of the push? Do the brakes somehow work as a fail-safe even the the hydrolics are basically toast? I know that's a long shot, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been shocked over systems in this car.
This has been a very good car for us. We've had it since '03 with 30k. Problems have been minimal, till now. The 'check engine' light came on several months ago, and we were unable to afford the repairs. We used it as a 65 miles per day commuter car, mostly at highway speeds. The mileage has dropped off abruptly from the long-term 42 mpg down all the way to 24. There is a nasty vibration on startup. It lasts for maybe 30 seconds and then calms down. We are now at a place where we can do the repairs.
View 19 RepliesWe have had an engine light that comes on when it is wet out. (Usually from rain) Until recently, the codes were not stored in memory. The last time we tried this, there was a 420 code set. Our mechanic said it was the catalytic converter. This vehicle is a 2006 and only has a 100,000 miles on it. Neither of the oxygen sensors have been replaced. The car doesn't seem to run any differently when the engine light comes on.
View 10 RepliesRecently, my car has started to run rough with the check engine light on. I cycled the key 3 times and checked for codes. I got a code for the MAP sensor and a code for the 02 sensor. I got no codes for a misfire, so I guess the plugs and wires are okay. I bought a new MOPAR Map sensor and installed it. It still runs the same and the check engine light is still on.. My question is, is it necessary to disconnect the negative on the battery when doing this and for how long? I did disconnect it for about 2 minutes and it still was the same.
View 7 RepliesMy mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
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