1998 Ford Mondeo - Air Conditioner No Longer Blowing Out Of Front Vents
Sep 4, 2015
1998 Ford Mondeo. Yesturday I changed my air filter and went for a drive today and realized, that air is only coming through the vents right under the windscreen. I am pretty much car literate but cant afford a mechanic... Research I've done (on the net) shows the problem has something to do with the aircon no longer blowing out of my front vents where the A/C is supposed to blow out of, instead it was blowing out of the defrost vents along the windshield. The air will blow high, med, low, cold warm, ect just only through the vents near the wind shield. It has something to do with the vacume?? and the firewall...??? Apparently??
Where to start to get my aircon working again.. Pretty positive I installed and reset the fitting for the air filter correctly. I had my bonnet up so it can cool and I could change the filter and the wind blew it down, and may have something to do with it, I cant see any damage though..
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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Car sat there for 2 days non driven. Started it up, turned on the AC and it wouldn't blow through the front vents no matter what "mode" I select whether its on vents or legs. Instead it only blows through the windshield ones for the windshield. And it is also blowing outside air or maybe hot air, regardless what temperature I select and with the "AC" button on.
Before when I would press the "AC" button while the air was running I can hear a compressor or some clicking sound which is normal but now there's no sound when I press that and no sound when "mode" is changed.
What I've tried:
All fuses, all are good.
AC relay (good).
Disconnect the battery for 10 min, reconnect. Nothing.
Repair manual suggested action where it displays some codes. (I failed to link those codes to a proper definition in the manual)
Its been 90+ degree here in CA. I cant drive this car without AC.
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1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
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I have a 1998 Accord with a 4 cylinder. When I select defroster the air blows from the vents.
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My 2012 f150 AC is blowing out of the defrost for a couple of minutes on start up. The AC will begin to blow out of the dash vents then will switch back to the defrost vents before blowing out of the dash vents for the remainder of the trip.
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All vacuum lines are good, pump works, Canister isn't leaking, 4x4 activates and I can feel it, so Can't be vacuum leak. Replaced esof solenoid 6 months ago last time this happened, but this issue seems to be different. Watch this vid I made showing the issue.. after viewing video, do yall' agree I isolated the issue? If that one tug makes the air go through the front vents, that means everything else in the A/C mode selection works..
YouTube.....
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So a recent problem on my 2012 sf.. the front vents blow hot and the rear blows cold.?
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I'm having intermittent problems with the air conditioner on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If it matters, it's a 2wd, 3.5 liter model with about 66,000 miles. Below I will post a description of what's happening, as well as some other things that I've noticed and things that I've tried (these may or may not be relevant to the problem though). OK, here's what's happening:
I first noticed the problem back in late July and since then it has been happening more frequently. So far the problem only occurs after I've been driving on the interstate, although I'm not sure if it's a matter of my speed, or just a matter of how long the a/c has been running. Typically I only drive 15 minutes at a time unless I'm on the interstate where I would typically drive for a few hours or so. What's happening is that after a while (the time varies from 20 minutes to an hour or so) the flow of the air conditioning coming through the vents slows down to just a trickle. The a/c is still really cold, but it just barely comes out of the vents, no matter what speed I set it on. Here are some things that I've noticed (and a few things that I've done to try to repair it):
1.) I read that it might be the cabin air filter, even though normally Santa Fe's aren't equipped with them. I took the glove box out, and found the spot where the air filter normally goes and there was one installed (we bought the car used). I took it out and it was disgustingly dirty - a bunch of dirt, some leaves, sticks, etc... I just took out the filter completely and didn't replace it.
2.) While I was looking at that air filter, I also noticed that the box right to the left of that filter was wet with condensation. This was right after a two hour drive with the A/C on maximum cold all the way home though, so I don't know if that is normal or not. It wasn't dripping on the floor, but there was noticeable condensation on that box (I don't know what that "box" is).
3.) The problem will sometimes go away if I turn the air conditioning completely off for about 5-10 minutes. It seems that the longer I leave the a/c off the better chance I have of it working when I turn it back on.
4.) When I change the fan speed on the air conditioning I can hear the blower motor running at different levels. It almost sounds as if there's something in the dash that is clogging up the pipes. I can hear a whistling sound when the blower is on the lowest speed - when it's up any higher than that I can't hear it, but that's probably just because of the noise coming from the blower itself.
5.) I had the problem today, and I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I got back into the car I heard the sound of water trickling from underneath the glove box. It was very quiet, but it was there.
6.) When we have this problem, it happens on all of the vents. It doesn't matter what vent you choose for the air to come out of - the flow is just a trickle.
7.) It doesn't matter if it is heat or cold - the flow is very slow on both of these.
8.) The a/c is still ice cold during all of this. It blows colder than any other a/c that I've ever had.
9.) I noticed that sometimes while driving, a white mist will come out of the vents. Sometimes we have the problem above after we see the mist - sometimes it still works fine though, but I did think it was odd that the "mist" was coming out. I'm not sure if it's water vapor or what, but it does go away if you turn the temperature control a little to the warm side (even just a notch or two away from max cold).
Originally, I had thought that it was the blower motor and I was just going to replace it, but then I started thinking about it and don't think that it is the blower motor because it seems to be working well most of the time, and even when I have the problem I can hear it running - again it sounds like something is clogging up the a/c system somewhere between the blower and the vents. I also read some things about the blend doors, but I'm not sure if that's it or not.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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Ac is no longer blowing cold air and was thinking about trying a can of ac pro on her. However, I have heard some pretty bad stories about people killing their compressors and overcharging the system. Is it not worth the risk.
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Vent selector knob works, but likely whatever mechanism that directs the air to different vents is no longer connected...it is perpetually stuck on "feet". I have removed trim pieces around the radio, but it didn't seem to lead me to where I needed to be.
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I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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My 2001 E350 van's factory rear A/C is not working. Front A/C and heat is fine. Regardless of front control position for rear, heater stays on all the time unless I turn it off with the rear control. No air is blowing from the rear A/C vents, only from the rear heater vent. This isn't a big problem right now, but will soon be an issue. I use this van for my sales route, carrying a lot of temperature sensitive snack products. I don't have an owners manual, and the Haynes manual has no info at all regarding the rear A/C.
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My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
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